Toe Settings with Negative Camber 2010 G37S Sedan

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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 11:02 PM
  #1  
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Toe Settings with Negative Camber 2010 G37S Sedan

I just got back from the alignment shop today to have my front and rear toe set after lowering my car. The specs are as follows:
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I have my stock wheels on right now because I'm waiting for a new set of wheels to come in. I need the negative camber so that is no worries. From my understanding I would want all 4 wheels to have a 0.00 (or as close as possible) toe to stop the tires from wearing prematurely. The guy at the tire shop was saying that the "toe in" on the rear was good because it makes the tires wear more on the outside and because I have negative camber this would be better than setting the toe at 0.00 in the rear.

This is counter intuitive to what I know to be the best way to set up the car. Can anyone confirm if I am right or the tire shop guy?

This is my daily driver and I don't care so much about the performance, I just want the tires to last a long time.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 11:22 PM
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whoever told you about the toe in the rear is a moron. the toe should always be as close to zero as possible.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 03:25 PM
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That's pretty much what I thought. I was just trying to get some other opinions. I guess its back to the alignment shop today.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 04:09 PM
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Toe scrubs the tires!!
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 04:17 PM
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They might be able to do a better job on zeroing the toe. I dont know how much you lowered the car.

I a m lowered 1.5"front and 1.2" rear and the shop got mine to an acceptable value. No camber kits.

I have driven 14,000km since the alignment. I frequently check the tire wear with a gauge and everything is good and even.

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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GET_SOME
whoever told you about the toe in the rear is a moron. the toe should always be as close to zero as possible.
Why is this? I have read this comment a number of times on this forum but it is contradictory to the factory specs.

Reading a number of sites on the net, Toe-In on the rear is desirable as it reduces tire wear due to the tendency of the tires to move to a toe out position when they start rolling and it also increases stability.

Whenever I look at any parked BMW the rear toe in is even more pronounced than on the G which is still very noticeable on a parked car.

So is there any documentation that shows why 0 toe is desirable (especially when there is toe-in from the factory?)
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 05:05 PM
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I'd be pissed if I paid for that alignment! All that changed was your front toe haha.

Out of curiosity what suspension components are you running?
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 06:57 PM
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I have Eibach Pro Kit springs with Tokico Blue Shocks. I have currently only paid $45 for them to adjust the front end. They only charge if they have to do an adjustment.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 07:34 PM
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rpm&my_G35
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From: Waterloo, Ont.
Originally Posted by NextLevelGuy
I have Eibach Pro Kit springs with Tokico Blue Shocks. I have currently only paid $45 for them to adjust the front end. They only charge if they have to do an adjustment.
In this case, pay them to finish the job and get the rear toe in spec. You can keep the extra negative camber and have the toe corrected.
Your rear tires will wear quickly as they are currently set.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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Oh I see. Have you not had a full alignment since installing the springs and struts? Or are you out of spec in the rear intentionally?
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