Originally Posted by Pete@BC

Anyone in the West Virgina area having problems? We'll be at Summit Point this weekend. Open to take a look or ride with someone with the issue. I'm working on seeing how soon we can get some older rears.

As for the post above, yes it is very common to start hearing noises when changes are made. I'm suprised most of you are riding on such a stiff setting for daily driving. Stiff will always make things pop up as far as noises. Either way, as of now I still believe it has something to do with preload. But I'm trying to source the older design in and see if this helps.

Originally Posted by neverbonestock

Like i said they make rattles, knocks , clunks and other weird nosies ... When you start modding you have to start sacrificing !!!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by jtree007

So here is exactly What I did... and What I think Some of the problems may be coming from:

First... Possible Locations the noise is coming from
1. Improper Preload
----Too much & you are limiting travel and the shock is acting as a bump stop
----Too Little & you are allowing the spring to move around...
2. The Extenders
----If they are not completely tight (not the set nuts) and slack remains within the rear strut tower.
----If they have free movement and can hit firm objects, they may be able produce a noise
3. Springs
----If you did not reuse the rubber bushing on the bottom of the spring, this might be making the noise.
4. Nuts on the top of the shock that hold it to the car
----If they are not tight enough they will allow the shock to rattle like hell

What I did to get rid of the noise....

1. Jack up the car and remove the tires. Please use jack stands! You should not need to get under the car but always better to be safe.
2. Loosen the collar on the shock.
3. Use your jack to compress the spring slightly and remove the bolt holding the lower part of the shock (think it is a 17mm)
4. Lower the jack and allow the spring to hang freely.
5. Now rotate the shock up or down until it is at about 1/2" shorter then it would need to be. Measure from the bottom of the bolt hole on the shock and on the mounting point. You will be able to see about half of the hole on the mounting point below the entire shock. BC only recommends 1/8" to 1/4" on their DIY but 1/2" worked better for me.
6. Now tighten the collar on the shock hand tight.
7. Raise the jack under the spring seat slowly until you can place the bolt back through the shock and the mounting point.
8. Tighten the bolt holding in the lower part of the shock to 90 lbs. A torque wrench is your best friend. If you do not have one then you need one. Get one that clicks... not one that has a dial on it. Always use one when working on any critical part on your car, including your wheels.
9. Tighten the collar on the shock as tight as you can with the wrench supplied by BC
10. Lower the jack and allow the suspension to hang freely. It should not fall at all!
11. Check all the bolts to ensure that they are tight. Do not forget the collars on the springs and the top bolts on the shock.
12. Replace your wheel and tighten the lug nuts to 80 lbs.
13. Repeat on the on the other side.

--I know I did not say to check any measurements other then the amount of preload. Although changing the shock length may change the height of the car, that does not matter at this stage. Get the preload correct, then if there is a difference in the height. Correct the height using the spring adjustment collars and correct then preload again according the the new spring height.

Check BC's DIY for pictures and reference.

Hope this helps. Remember to check all the bolts and nuts! They need to be all properly torqued.

If needed I can post up the page out if the service manual with the proper torque.

Originally Posted by bboysteele

Sorry but not true.