People who have rattling issues with the BC Coilovers PLEASE POST IN HERE!!!!
08-12-2008, 12:00 PM
#61
08-13-2008, 12:21 PM
#63
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08-13-2008, 12:36 PM
#64
I think it would be nice to know what everyone else is at versus playing with mine. I've made attempts over and over and over and over, and fortunatly I'm not the only one with the rattle or trying things to fix it. I just think that I can play with settings until I'm blue in the face and still hear an annoying rattle every time I go out to drive my car. Let's see if there is any kind of other common thread. How many having rattles have what options? Who has 4WAS with the coilovers versus who doesn't? Since there are 13% of us having the problem, either there is a coincidence, others don't hear notice the rattle, or they just don't have it. There has to be a reason since apparently there is a lot of confidence in the product not having a fault and it is all about the application that is the problem. How about everyone list their info who has the rattle and let's see what sticks. Something like this:
1) username: Car model (including sport versus non sport), options, suspension mods besides the BC coils, BC stiffness setting, wheels (aftermarket or stock) size of wheels/tires
1) 1BADV6: 2008 G37S, 4WAS, premium, nav, BC coilovers only, setting around 15/16, 20" Volk GT-30 9.5" in front 10.5" in back with 245/35 in front and 275/30 in the back
1) username: Car model (including sport versus non sport), options, suspension mods besides the BC coils, BC stiffness setting, wheels (aftermarket or stock) size of wheels/tires
1) 1BADV6: 2008 G37S, 4WAS, premium, nav, BC coilovers only, setting around 15/16, 20" Volk GT-30 9.5" in front 10.5" in back with 245/35 in front and 275/30 in the back
08-13-2008, 01:43 PM
#65
2) MaxtotheG37: 2008 G37S, 4WAS, premium, nav, tech, 6mt, BC coilovers, settings common 22/26 have tried ALL settings in incremints of 5, Rode on Stockers for a while, Rode on volk RE30s in 19x9,19x10 for about 20 days, rode on DPE 20" wheels for a week...
None of my variable change the Kerplunk I hear....
None of my variable change the Kerplunk I hear....
Last edited by MaxToTheG37; 08-13-2008 at 02:30 PM.
08-13-2008, 02:27 PM
#67
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1) Sumo8me: 2008 G37S, premium, nav, tech, BC coilovers only, setting around 28/28, 20" Piaa Super Rozza 9" in front 10" in back with 245/35 in front and 275/30 in the back
08-13-2008, 04:09 PM
#69
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And just to be sure, you guys jacked up the car, then with another jack, put load on the spring by jacking up the spring perch, and adjust the shock to hold the preload by threading it into the cartridge?
08-13-2008, 04:58 PM
#70
I did this on my teardown after Pete posted up the official install instructions. Before and after, I ended up with the same thing.
I tried getting a sound clip of my rattle previously and it was hard to distinguish. I'm going to try again, but my choice of word continues to be rattle.
I tried getting a sound clip of my rattle previously and it was hard to distinguish. I'm going to try again, but my choice of word continues to be rattle.
08-13-2008, 10:46 PM
#71
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Im really glad you're happy with the ride quality and handling of your BC racing coilovers. But honestly, do you think Tein or Cusco would come to you? We tried to get someone to goto BC so that Pete could check the rattle out, its difficult to run a business, have a family, and unfortunately have to deal with a rattle. Pete hates the rattle as much as you do. As far as a quicker and more aggressive response, Pete tried diagnosing the problem via the internet, giving suggestions on what to do and everything, because no one could make their way here, but its not as easy to tell as it is to do. He finally found time, and made his way to you. But preload seems to be the problem solver so far, lets hope it stays that way. If you have the rattle, more preload for now, if that doesnt work, I think Jtree had a few helpful tips in his last post.
I was not trying to imply that Tein or Cusco would go to the lengths that BC is nor am I trying to say that BC is not trying to fix the problem. All I was trying to say was that a lot of the bad feelings from forum members come from their feeling that things were not moving for a while to get this fixed. This is not to say that BC did not respond but it would have benefited them greatly if there was constant communication on the problem, when the problem appeared. Not complaining, but trying to give everyone perspective on what is going on. There as far as I can tell NO safety issue at had, as long as everything is properly installed. BC is trying to find a fix and understand the problem. I am aware of that. We are seeing more information coming along. This is making everyone happier about the situation. This is the communication and information that would have helped BC earlier to prevent frustrated customers. It is just an observation, I think if we had constant communication and no solution from day one.. most would be a lot happier despite no change from where they are today. More of a heads up for Manufactures/Retailers in the future and just a reminder to all the users on here that the problem is a minor one, no matter how annoying
I am happy with the coilovers and I don't think this is a major issue... just an annoying one. I have had a chance to put 400+ miles on my car since my last adjustment and there are no noises.
BTW... Pete did have terrible working conditions when he came by, The car was teetering, it was dark, and hot. He did what he could in the situation and I could not expect any more from him. So there are no bad feelings from me towards BC.. and absolutely none towards Pete. I appreciate his visit.
In a few I am going to explain exactly what I did and why...
08-14-2008, 12:29 AM
#72
There is a bunch of crybabies on this forum !! For the people who dont know....COILOVERS MAKE NOISE !!!!! FROM THE CHEAP ONES TO THE EXPENSIVE ONES !!!!! SEEMS LIKE THERE IS ALOT OF PEOPLE ON HERE WHO HAVE NEVER MODDED A CAR BEFORE OR AT LEAST HAD EXPERIENCE WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN JIFFY LUBE CHANGING THEIR OIL !!!
08-14-2008, 12:46 AM
#73
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So here is exactly What I did... and What I think Some of the problems may be coming from:
First... Possible Locations the noise is coming from
1. Improper Preload
----Too much & you are limiting travel and the shock is acting as a bump stop
----Too Little & you are allowing the spring to move around...
2. The Extenders
----If they are not completely tight (not the set nuts) and slack remains within the rear strut tower.
----If they have free movement and can hit firm objects, they may be able produce a noise
3. Springs
----If you did not reuse the rubber bushing on the bottom of the spring, this might be making the noise.
4. Nuts on the top of the shock that hold it to the car
----If they are not tight enough they will allow the shock to rattle like hell
What I did to get rid of the noise....
1. Jack up the car and remove the tires. Please use jack stands! You should not need to get under the car but always better to be safe.
2. Loosen the collar on the shock.
3. Use your jack to compress the spring slightly and remove the bolt holding the lower part of the shock (think it is a 17mm)
4. Lower the jack and allow the spring to hang freely.
5. Now rotate the shock up or down until it is at about 1/2" shorter then it would need to be. Measure from the bottom of the bolt hole on the shock and on the mounting point. You will be able to see about half of the hole on the mounting point below the entire shock. BC only recommends 1/8" to 1/4" on their DIY but 1/2" worked better for me.
6. Now tighten the collar on the shock hand tight.
7. Raise the jack under the spring seat slowly until you can place the bolt back through the shock and the mounting point.
8. Tighten the bolt holding in the lower part of the shock to 90 lbs. A torque wrench is your best friend. If you do not have one then you need one. Get one that clicks... not one that has a dial on it. Always use one when working on any critical part on your car, including your wheels.
9. Tighten the collar on the shock as tight as you can with the wrench supplied by BC
10. Lower the jack and allow the suspension to hang freely. It should not fall at all!
11. Check all the bolts to ensure that they are tight. Do not forget the collars on the springs and the top bolts on the shock.
12. Replace your wheel and tighten the lug nuts to 80 lbs.
13. Repeat on the on the other side.
--I know I did not say to check any measurements other then the amount of preload. Although changing the shock length may change the height of the car, that does not matter at this stage. Get the preload correct, then if there is a difference in the height. Correct the height using the spring adjustment collars and correct then preload again according the the new spring height.
Check BC's DIY for pictures and reference.
Hope this helps. Remember to check all the bolts and nuts! They need to be all properly torqued.
If needed I can post up the page out if the service manual with the proper torque.
First... Possible Locations the noise is coming from
1. Improper Preload
----Too much & you are limiting travel and the shock is acting as a bump stop
----Too Little & you are allowing the spring to move around...
2. The Extenders
----If they are not completely tight (not the set nuts) and slack remains within the rear strut tower.
----If they have free movement and can hit firm objects, they may be able produce a noise
3. Springs
----If you did not reuse the rubber bushing on the bottom of the spring, this might be making the noise.
4. Nuts on the top of the shock that hold it to the car
----If they are not tight enough they will allow the shock to rattle like hell
What I did to get rid of the noise....
1. Jack up the car and remove the tires. Please use jack stands! You should not need to get under the car but always better to be safe.
2. Loosen the collar on the shock.
3. Use your jack to compress the spring slightly and remove the bolt holding the lower part of the shock (think it is a 17mm)
4. Lower the jack and allow the spring to hang freely.
5. Now rotate the shock up or down until it is at about 1/2" shorter then it would need to be. Measure from the bottom of the bolt hole on the shock and on the mounting point. You will be able to see about half of the hole on the mounting point below the entire shock. BC only recommends 1/8" to 1/4" on their DIY but 1/2" worked better for me.
6. Now tighten the collar on the shock hand tight.
7. Raise the jack under the spring seat slowly until you can place the bolt back through the shock and the mounting point.
8. Tighten the bolt holding in the lower part of the shock to 90 lbs. A torque wrench is your best friend. If you do not have one then you need one. Get one that clicks... not one that has a dial on it. Always use one when working on any critical part on your car, including your wheels.
9. Tighten the collar on the shock as tight as you can with the wrench supplied by BC
10. Lower the jack and allow the suspension to hang freely. It should not fall at all!
11. Check all the bolts to ensure that they are tight. Do not forget the collars on the springs and the top bolts on the shock.
12. Replace your wheel and tighten the lug nuts to 80 lbs.
13. Repeat on the on the other side.
--I know I did not say to check any measurements other then the amount of preload. Although changing the shock length may change the height of the car, that does not matter at this stage. Get the preload correct, then if there is a difference in the height. Correct the height using the spring adjustment collars and correct then preload again according the the new spring height.
Check BC's DIY for pictures and reference.
Hope this helps. Remember to check all the bolts and nuts! They need to be all properly torqued.
If needed I can post up the page out if the service manual with the proper torque.
Last edited by jtree007; 08-14-2008 at 01:02 AM. Reason: Grammar
08-14-2008, 12:48 AM
#74
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There is a bunch of crybabies on this forum !! For the people who dont know....COILOVERS MAKE NOISE !!!!! FROM THE CHEAP ONES TO THE EXPENSIVE ONES !!!!! SEEMS LIKE THERE IS ALOT OF PEOPLE ON HERE WHO HAVE NEVER MODDED A CAR BEFORE OR AT LEAST HAD EXPERIENCE WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN JIFFY LUBE CHANGING THEIR OIL !!!
Noises are one thing... rattles are annoying and unsettling.
08-14-2008, 12:53 AM
#75
Anyone in the West Virgina area having problems? We'll be at Summit Point this weekend. Open to take a look or ride with someone with the issue. I'm working on seeing how soon we can get some older rears.
As for the post above, yes it is very common to start hearing noises when changes are made. I'm suprised most of you are riding on such a stiff setting for daily driving. Stiff will always make things pop up as far as noises. Either way, as of now I still believe it has something to do with preload. But I'm trying to source the older design in and see if this helps.
As for the post above, yes it is very common to start hearing noises when changes are made. I'm suprised most of you are riding on such a stiff setting for daily driving. Stiff will always make things pop up as far as noises. Either way, as of now I still believe it has something to do with preload. But I'm trying to source the older design in and see if this helps.