What do you do at the base of the shifter?

A few years ago, when getting the STS installed, I had taken down my center console, and all the interior pieces around the shifter. I distinctly remember driving the car around for a few days like that, looking straight down at the pavement through the shifter hole. Not only was the top inner-boot removed, but the underside boot was destroyed. Anyway, my point is that it made a racket. Road noise was seriously intrusive wide open like that.

And that leads me to suspect the shifter hole is a significant weak point for noise abatement. So what are you doing around the shifter? I don't understand what I'm seeing in your pic.

 

Once I’m ready to put the center console back in, I’m going to replace the white cloth donut with bigger mlv/ccf donut (maybe double layered and probably
more square than round, depends on how console fits) at least as big as the mount that the shifter comes through. That should give me a pretty good layer/buffer.

 

A note about the airbags: A pillar covers the edges of the curtain bags. Curtain bags themselves are at the edges of the headliner above the doors - front and back look like one bag (spent time in the junkyard looking at popped bags). The a pillars are designed to pop off, so covering should be fine. The center side bags are in the seats. The big one I'd worry about is the passenger dash bag - and scoring the leather underneath would go a long way to make that one easier. Otherwise your passenger might end up with a face full of the leather...

 

Once I stripped the car I figured out the curtain airbags are fine. I’m going to sand/score the leather where the passenger dash airbag is.

 

Cool. Just read through the thread and didn't see where you'd addressed that.

Press on - looks good. I'm interested to see what you do with the shifter boot area - I'd worry that a square would keep the shifter from moving easily. I've still got my center console and some of the other lower trim out too post sunroof leak fixin'.

 

Finally got the carpet back in my car, floor is done! Either I did this really slow or it’s much more difficult and time confusing than it appears. I think the floors took me like 30-40 hours. Although I could probably do it in half the time if I had to do it again.

I am not happy with the sliding cup holder cover. I tried everything and can’t get it to stop creaking. I tried to run a thin fabric along the tracks but it didn’t elongate the problem (70% import meant tho). I’m doing some fabrication on it instead. I’m removing the slider, and using the huge cavity that it usually blocks in the back to make a place to hold my phone. Ever notice there isn’t a good place to put your phone in the car?

All I have left is to rig some brackets since I’m not using the original brackets that house the slider b/ it sits too low with them. I’ll upload pics of the finished product soon.

 

You’re not wrong that its a time consuming task. I have been also detailing each piece as I put it back in taking apart the components, buttons etc and cleaning them. Then getting it back together and fit well with the added 1/8-1/4” is a little challenging too. I’m getting closer to the finish line. I’m down to the driver rear quarter and rear seat. I also need to get the doors finished but I might need to get some more material. I didnt realize the massive cavity that are the rear quarters in the coupe. I ended up using an initial layer of the butyl sound deadener, followed it with the insulative liner, then bought some foam acoustic panels that I used spray adhesive to layer in, then filled the rest of the space with denim roll insulation. Made a HUGE difference. My plan is to get everything back together hopefully today or tomorrow.

 

Oh wow. Glad I’m not the only one crazy enough to do this. I have been brainstorming on how to attack the the rear. I was wondering how bad it was under the qtrs and debating if I wanted to get inside or just lay mlv ok top. You have a pic of the inside? If you are laying mlv, you have any pics or suggestions on how to cut the rear pieces?

My driver side carpet did not go in that great. It bulges a little near the gas pedal. Also, the styrofoam foot support (maybe you dint have this if you aren’t 6MT?) is a disaster. It’s really loose and I need to address it. Not exactly sure how. Why styrofoam Nissan, ugh really??

I too am leaving the doors for last. I may need some more CCF since I messed up so many pieces I have a lot of scrap. I probably have enough MLV still.



Here is the rear qtr we are talking about. And that rope is my tied to my trunk latch b/ it stopped working at some point and I don’t know why

 

I think you really have to open up that panel to get inside the rear quarter, it is a massive amount of empty space and it stretches all the way to the trunk. I went at it from both directions. Fortunately I have long slim arms and hands that I had decent reach the whole way through. I used the Noico products both the butyl sound deadener and their 150 & 315 mil liner (for the most part only used the 315 in the trunk). It took a bunch of time and material to do the quarters but absolutely worth it. I generally try and waste very little, even when I am cutting odd shapes I found places to to fill little gaps. Here are the various steps I took:



Inside Rear Quarter

Noico Butyl Sound Deadener

Noico 150 mil Liner

Foam Acoustic Panel

Denim Insulation

All lined and filled.

I also then lined both sides of that panel with both deadener and liner, it completely filled the area and it makes all the difference. I got everything back together this afternoon and turned on the stereo, the car is completely dead quiet (except for the doors).


I know what you mean about the dead pedal, it was a giant pain because those stupid plastic clips that hold the styrofoam screw in which I didnt realize so when I took it out it stripped and the styrofoam was jacked up. I actually ended up cutting pieces of my Noico adhesive liner to reinforce the styrofoam. Once the carpet went in and all the other panels were in place it is nice and firm. The only other advice I can offer is to test fit panels before you stick things in place permanently just to make sure things fit back ok.

 

That chaps my *** too - if you ever drive on track without a full harness (ie, HPDE) you rely on the dead pedal to stay in place. This one... squishes.

I think I might have to rig something out of aluminum. Or 3D print.

 

@KidJai06 Great stuff. Thanks for the info. I guess that answers my question and I’ll be opening that up too. As far as the trunk, I feel that if I get a good mlv seal around the backseat I can ignore the trunk. I’ll lay some cld in it but I don’t think it needs the full Mlv/ccf treatment if I stop the noise from backseat. What are you thinking for trunk?

I also tried to fix the footrest by placing cld to remake the broken slats that go into the clips but it didn’t really work for me. My clips are also stripped.

I wish I could a heavy duty 3D printed one like Rochester said, but I have no clue about that.

I’m trying to make some brackets for this stupid cup holder now. Hoping to finish tonight.

The leather wrapped center console is Dope. I will need to have the armrest done by a pro tho. That’s real upholstery work. I wasn’t originally going to do the center but given it all connects to the dash having a change in material would look bad.

 

I did the trunk just as I did the rest of the car, with the exception of using the thicker (315 mil) liner. If you take out the side carpet liners in the trunk you can actually see how the quarter panel cavity connects over the wheel well all the way to the tail light. There is little to no deadener from the factor for such a big piece of metal. I have future aspirations of upgrading my stereo so I want as much of the sheet metal as dead as I can get it. I admittedly geeked out a little when I did a knock test on the stock side vs. the first side I deadened. I have to say I am pleasantly surprised by the Noico products, especially given the price. I think when totally done I'll have about 108 sqft of the butyl deadener, 90 sq ft of the 150 mil liner, 20 sqft of the 315 mil liner, 10 - 12"x12" foam acoustic panels, and 4 - 2'x4' rolls of denim insulation. Putting me at less than $400 for the entire car.

My footrest clips were stripped too, I didnt even end up reusing them, I used the thick liner on the bottom of the styrofoam and then let the studs poke a hole through it to mostly hold it in place, once I put the fuse panel cover back on with the plastic nut and tightened the accelerator pedal down, it held pretty firm.

I was giving thought to making something better, I don't have access to a 3D printer but that thought came to my mind too, even researched them a little as I considered buying one. A quick and fairly easy solution would be to make one out of wood, drill two holes for the studs on the floor. Put a washer on the bottom then use a nut from the top to tighten things down.

 

Fantastic thread! I actually just re-wrapped my headliner and A/B/C pillars in my sedan a charcoal suede last year. Such a pain in the butt, but the results were quite worth it! Nice tip on the NISMO Sentra handles (I might see if they are cheaper than the Q50 Red Sport ones I was going to source). For the coupes, a guy in the facebook groups used R35 seatbelts which were a direct swap.

Side note if you haven't got those 370 visors let me know, I purchased a pair for my swap but they don't fit sedans unfortunately.

 

I’m unsure if the Z will fit the coupe either. I assumed they would but another user said he wasn’t so sure. I don’t have them yet so if they do fit I’ll take em.

I saw GTRs had same seat belt and it’s got black accents but they are so friggin expensive. I’m going probably try and nab some once I’m all done and my seatbelts look like puke. Is the GTR actual belt lighter than our car? It looks a little more gray.

What did you do for map light?

 

Is it possible to (or reasonably doable) to unreel the seatbelt to remove / slide out the trim pieces at the top?