Horns are a super easy way to upgrade your car by replacing the generally weak sound from the OEM horns. Overall cost for this upgrade was less than $25 and took about 1.5 hours on a fairly difficult install (relative to other horn replacements). I highly recommend this for anyone and it’s easy for anyone to do.

Here's a link to my write up:
https://oppositelock.kinja.com/diy-h...ers-1841458146

 

My question to anyone here is how the OEM ones work. Unless the factory wiring starves them from amperage they should work the same connected to factory.

 

As far as I can tell, the oem wiring isn’t a big enough gauge so it doesn’t provide enough power. That being said, I don’t understand wiring at all, so I could be wrong. All I know for sure is that you need at least a 16 wire connected to the battery and a larger relay for the full power to the HELLAs.

 

How many amps is the horn pulling? Depending on the gauge of the wire it'll reduce how many amps you can push. Maybe an upgrade would make it better. I know my horn is way too quiet...

 

So the regular horn from my G wasn’t working when pressing the horn on the steering wheel so I assumed it would be either the fuses or the horn itself, checked the fuses and everything was in order.
went ahead and removed the bumper and simply replaced both horns, horn still didn’t honk, but I lock the car, both of them honk, I thought only 1 would work when locking the car.
either way, now I’m suspecting the the issue could be the relay, or worst case scenario, the clock spring, altho all the buttons from the steering wheel works.
any advice or confirmation on what it could be would be more than welcome.

btw the last time it worked pressing the horn on the steering wheel, sounded like a dying cat, stopped work after that

 

To confirm your symptoms, the horn DOES NOT work when you press the steering wheel pad, but sounds when you lock the doors? Do the horns work when you press the "PANIC" button on the fob?

 

Yes that’s correct, horns work either by locking the car with the key fob or when I press the “panic” button....even work when the alarm turns on, the other day was working on the taillights and keep the truck too long open without unlocking the car and the alarm started “honking”.
only when I press the pad on the steering wheel, nothing happens

 

Good. That indicates that the IPDM, the relays, and the horns are good. The issue then points to either the horn switch, the clock spring, or a wiring issue between the steering column and the relays.

When you press the horn pad, a GROUND signal is sent from the horn switch, through the clock spring, to the relays. When grounded, the relays close and the horns sound.


I would suggest you remove the lower shroud (you should be able to do so w/out removing the steering wheel) and locate the Light Green wire at the GRAY connector. Using a jumper wire, jump this wire to a bare metal spot on the steering column. In essence, ground that light green wire.

Does the horn sound?

Alternatively, if you want to go straight to the clock spring, after you remove the airbag you can unclip the rubber coated connector and ground that to bare metal.

Does the horn sound?

I would be more inclined to believe that corrosion may have built up on the switch contacts or that the switch plate is the issue. While it is possible the clock spring is the issue, as other circuits are on that same ribbon, you would have other symptoms. Possible, not probable. This should give you some direction.

***FRIENDLY WARNING, I do not know your skill set. If you are not able/ comfortable/ know how to remove the airbag module take the car to a reputable shop and have them look into it. The battery must be disconnected for AT LEAST 10-15min. BEFORE attempting to remove the airbag module. Failure to do so can risk severe injury!

 

I had my BCM, IPDM and steering lock module replaced last year so I really hope these ones have no issues, and yes, last time I went to check the fuses by the clutch pedals I noticed some rust…..usually as long I have directions I can do it myself, but in this case I’ll take it to the mechanic….all I know is last time the horn worked by pressing the pad, sounded like dying and while pressing the sound was coming out intermittently, that’s why I assumed the issue was the horn itself.
thank you very much for the help.

 

That is almost always a telltale sign that the switch is bad or that there is a bad ground connection. Being that the horns works except for the steering wheel pad tell me the issue is somewhere in the blue circle:

Again, if you can ground the light green wire (mentioned above) and the horns sound, then the switch or clock spring is the issue.

 

Upgrading the weak OEM horns is definitely worth it, especially if you want something louder. If you're thinking about other options, I found these remote-controlled air horns at bosshorn.com . But I have to warn you that they're super loud. Still, it could be a fun project to add something different to your car.