So for those of you that are looking to purchase racing seats, I wanted to inform you that 370Z base brackets will not work. That also means that stock seats can NOT be swapped between the G and Z. The holes are fine if you bolt the passenger side bolt holes closest to the transmission tunnel, but width is the issue. 370Z base is wider by a bit, an inch if I recall correctly. I have not checked the driver's side because I didn't remove the seat prior to arriving at OG Racing (obviously).

Your only way of getting brackets is to have Wedge Engineering build it or going to a race fabrication shop like Piper Motorsports for a bracket to your specifications. I will update as soon as I get an estimate from Piper and decide to have them make the two or wait on Wedge to get started on them.

I might be alone on this, but it doesn't hurt to give information before diving head on into the choice of seat conversion. Unlike others, pics will be posted when completed.

 

I never even considered swapping for those seats but it is a handy piece of information in case somebody ever does. Thanks for the contribution!

 

Yes I found this out by trying / buying 370z rails. I ended up having to order a different set of rails from Bride Japan. Took about 6 weeks to get them for the sedan since not many people change seats on the sedan, but I would think the coupe may be more common / Bride USA might have some stateside for the coupe which means you might not need custom ones.

Bride RO Rails part numbers
Coupe: N115 (driver) and N116 (pass)
Sedan: N109 (driver) and N110 (pass)

 

Thank you TTV36 for the part numbers. I glanced at Bride's webpage, but didn't actually see anything when looking. I also was not sure if the Bride brackets would mount to Sparco seats and sliders. I know when I first looked at trying to get Corbeau brackets, it was said they would only fit their seats, not any other manufacturers. I have purchased Sparco sliders too, so the bracket is my biggest challenge with being the correct ride height and width of the rail.

@kennyZ424: I never considered it either, but I know there are some posts I have run across asking if they were interchangeable. Haha, I try to help when I can. I wouldn't understand if you have the G sport seats why you would put Z seats in. But G sports in a Z is slightly understandable. Still loses me, but understandable.

I know some people will ask me why I have removed my stock seats. While I don't care what people think, I will explain. If you don't like it, that is YOUR opinion. It's my car, so I do as I please. Just as your car is your's, you would do as YOU please. So my reason:
I have modified the car to the point of discomfort for daily driving. Granted, it's not a 700+hp car with a roll bar/cage (yet), it's loud with no resonated pipes with the exception of ART pipes. It sits at a height that sucks for driving around the DMV (DC/MD/VA), so bottoming out is an issue. I modified the car to compete in the SCCA autocross and run as many PDX's as I can afford. The car is only driven to work when my new (2014) S4 or Mercedes is immobile like not being able to find keys in the morning with a quickness. I have installed Schroth 4-pt (Rallye 3/4 ASM) harnesses in the car, that I use more than stock belts. But I will keep the stocks just for keeping state troopers happy even though the Schroth belts are DOT approved.

That is my reason behind my seats. If you don't like it, join my wife's side. But you don't drive it, and most certainly don't own it. Most of us are on here because we are enthusiasts, automotive enthusiasts. I wish I had just bought a 370Z, but it's too late. I had already modified the car and tossed the stock parts. Some of you will understand how much of a pain in the a$$ to remove parts, plus the value of parts never get recovered. Now if you're reading this, you own a 370Z with some equivalent modifications, and would like to trade, please let me know and I will gladly trade you all that is in my car, MINUS the seats LOL.

 

yep, i bought 370z rails too only to find out they didn't fit

i actually called evasive motorsports and they happened to have 1 set of coupe driver side rails in stock at the time.. even though they don't even list the g37 as an option when buying the rails through their site. passenger would take about 2-3mo from japan.

 

I have actually decided to take my business to Piper Motorsport in Leesburg, VA. They have excellent customer service (so far) and apparently fabricate as well as their customer service. My tire and wheel supplier (Radial Tire Co.) and a technician at work recommended them very highly. Sure, the price for the seat brakets will be steep (~$800), but I'd rather have experts who have built multiple race cars make it and install the seat properly with my harness since safety is of the first priority while out on the track. Got cleared for a day off on this coming Monday, so I am taking it to them at 8-9am. I will take pictures if I can remember and if they let me of the building/facility. They said it will take two days to complete, I told them I was not in any particular rush, but the sooner, the better.

So excited! I have been waiting for this day for a very long time!

 

Pictures!




Driver's seat is on Sparco double locking sliders.





Driver's side sits a bit higher than the passenger.





Passenger seat is fixed mounted.





Clean welds!





Another shot of the clean welds.





Schroth Rallye 3 ASM harnesses keep the driver and passenger held in.

 

I also wanted to note that when you remove the stock seats, you lose the power mirrors as well since the control unit is attached to the seat. I will be seeing if I can somehow take it out and make it work. Obviously, power mirrors are necessary when you're driving between home and the track, and back. Also makes backing in to your narrow @$$ garage that makes you squeeze the passenger side of the car against the wall to fit your other car. I hate small two car garages...

 

So last night I ripped the seat control unit and wiring harness out from the driver's seat. You can pretty much go ahead and cut the harness in half or about three quarters of it. You just want to make sure that you keep the wires a good length to play match the wires. Match all the wires to what is on the main harness that plugs into the control unit. I didn't take pictures of what I did but I can tell you that there is positive, negative, blue with yellow stripe and about 3 other color matching wires. I used end cap connectors to get them connected once I sorted them all out. Cut the rest and you're all set. Please feel free to PM me or post on here if you don't understand.

Last few things to work on is SRS and passenger seat weight sensor. More updates to come.

 

Bumping this thread. Would appreciate to hear updates on your seat project(s).