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I have a 2009 g37s and I am having some issues with my battery dying. the battery is new and been tested. Battery is fine. What I have noticed when the car is completely turned off, I hear a slight clicking coming from behind the glove box. I have removed the glove box and found a connection where the clicking is coming from. I think this is for the power windows. Not sure how to diagnose where the issue is coming from though. Can anybody confirm what this box is for? Thank you very much.
This might help too ... the seal along the bottom of the front windows was deteriorating and I finally got around to replacing it. However, I noticed some rust of the infiniti logo in the door jam for the passenger side front door. I'm wondering if water got in the door and shorted out/damaged the power window motor??
You'll have to do additional diagnosis. That connector junction box is for the body harness that feeds the right side of the car, anything clicking has to be a type of relay/ solenoid or motor.
That is just a connector holder, you'll need to remove the kick panel to see more. It's possible that it's the BCM acting up due to water damage.
Take a long screw driver and place your ear on the end and the tip on top of whatever relays/ components you see and try to isolate the sound.
I did a parasitic draw test and I isolated it to the body lamp fuse underneath dash. That fuse controls BCM, driver seat control unit, automatic drive positioner control unit, seat memory switch, and passenger seat control unit. Is the best course of action to disconnect all of those, then reconnect 1 by 1 till the parasitic draw spikes. Thus, isolating the problem. Given I hear a humming coming from around the BCM, should I disconnect and test that first? Awhile back, I had a leak on the passenger side (haven't noticed it in awhile but also never addressed issue). I think it was coming through that pesky firewall grommett. That could have likely caused issues with the BCM? Sounding more and more like the BCM is the culprit.
Last edited by Scottfreidel; Feb 16, 2024 at 12:22 AM.
I did a parasitic draw test and I isolated it to the body lamp fuse underneath dash. That fuse controls BCM, driver seat control unit, automatic drive positioner control unit, seat memory switch, and passenger seat control unit. Is the best course of action to disconnect all of those, then reconnect 1 by 1 till the parasitic draw spikes. Thus, isolating the problem. Given I hear a humming coming from around the BCM, should I disconnect and test that first? Awhile back, I had a leak on the passenger side (haven't noticed it in awhile but also never addressed issue). I think it was coming through that pesky firewall grommett. That could have likely caused issues with the BCM? Sounding more and more like the BCM is the culprit.
In short yes, one by one will isolate which one is your fault. At the same time, water damage or more specifically dried up debris could be causing corrosion in between BCM pins connecting this side of the circuit to power after it's been turned off.
Usually in relays when they start buzzing you have a ground problem in the circuit, could possibly be that the circuit is staying on but not grounding correctly since everything is off and should not function like this originally you get a buzz from the relay attempting to function.
Leaks almost always bridge BCM connectors or fry the BCM start with the least and work your way up there. Quite possible that removing BCM connectors might break this corrosion loose and rid you of your problems once cleaned up and reconnected so start with components first then leave the BCM connectors for last.
I may have been premature with my diagnosis. I might have pulled the fuse in question before the car had "gone to sleep". With the fuse plugged in, i get a draw of .16A for 30 minutes, then it drops down and fluctuates between 60-110mA. Is that normal/within range? I saw 50mA is desired but not sure if this is close enough. Im replacing the battery terminals today as they are a little corroded and am monitoring the amperage throughout today for random spikes, but I maybe back to square 1 😞
Last edited by Scottfreidel; Feb 16, 2024 at 01:46 PM.
I may have been premature with my diagnosis. I might have pulled the fuse in question before the car had "gone to sleep". With the fuse plugged in, i get a draw of .16A for 30 minutes, then it drops down and fluctuates between 60-110mA. Is that normal/within range? I saw 50mA is desired but not sure if this is close enough. Im replacing the battery terminals today as they are a little corroded and am monitoring the amperage throughout today for random spikes, but I maybe back to square 1 😞
Make sure you pay attention to the condition of the ground wire. It's a small one and it has a LOAD sensor going through it. Slight corrosion will start to deteriorate the cable and being that it's the only wire to the battery you want to make sure that this is in good condition.
Honestly I wouldnt know the range of this fuse. Being that it's an 08 it could be a candidate for the EVAP valve TSB where the valve/Programming keeps the valve active after shut off and drains the battery over time.
Monitor these voltages, get average readings, then start disconnecting everything you can in this area and inspect for corrosion. Another thing you should do is a water test to determine if you ARE getting water inside of the cabin.
If you are you can follow this leak and it should point you closer to a diagnosis if the issue was water corrosion.