Pre cursor: I'm not even really looking for any type of brands yet. Plus not comparing quantity and or size differences, good or bad( ex. two 10" subwoofers vs one 15").Nor even price vs brand vs quality and design of tech used internally and externally, (i.e this or that tech spec, and their pros and cons). nor even material type and or quality of materials used.this precursor applies to all pieces of audio and electrical equipment needed, and materials used to install, sound condition of the car environment, or enclose/house said needed audio and electrical components. Products definitely welcome if there being used to show examples or help explain what could work or why or how.
Im just asking audio goal concept and idea questions, and laying out my overall audio dream/and personal audio preferences intially. I intend to start as soon as I determine a where to start from in regards to the q40s specific needs in relation to my audio goals.I also have questions in detail when it comes to install how to specifics, but thats another convo for the future lol. From Starter to alternator to big three to grounds to gauge size needed based on rated power consumption. for stable consistent electrical power all the way thru the full volume range at length while the car is running. With enough batteries used to power added equipment effectively and consistently for optimal audio signal replication. I rarely plan to play music in car at length while in a place or position where car is off. Also, quality of audio signal from audio file source(phone,spotify, bluetooth,aux,usb,hard drive) and quality of file type played from said source( lossless) to the transfer of signal from source to dsp to amp to speaker and everything in between that the signal goes thru from source to speaker.

Sound goal: SQL I'm way heavier leaning towards the SQ than the L side. I'd like to be able to listen regularly with sq at the fore front of the layout, but occasionally if I need to show off or get a wild hair to "bump" for a song or two , I can maybe change my bass tune setup on a saved eq or something that I can switch to. like maybe Have 2000watts of power available in your sub channel, but when normal sq playing its tuned to only use 500w worth and when you want to bump, it can be set to a tube that uses all 2000w. Without changing the other channel power levels for the front stage. That way even if you turn up the volume all the way till just before clipping, and the sub channel amp using all 2000w isn't blowing and at that high volume the front stage has enough overhead in amplification that when it's turned up all the way to just before clipping it has the potential to make ears more than bleed but not wanted or necessary.
Sound stage
Brilliant, warm,natural, sounding. Mirroring intended source of sound location. As far as speaker size, quantity, and or placement. If it's an instrument,voice, or certain frequency range it's being seperated to correct speaker. I'd like The sound(audio) coming from the correct as close to stock 3 way location. I want the front to look as modestly stock as possible. I'm not wanting to put four 6.5" speakers in each door or something lol. if the tweeters need to moved to some custom apillar pods for better placement and direction or door speaker enclosures vs just mounting in oem door spot. Again, open to modifying but as close to stock looking up front. active front stage vs passive ,and a eq/dsp before both front stage and sub channel. Super clean signal reproduction, and amplification.id love to use optical out between as many links In the chain. Optical from Source signal to dsp, each dsp channel output optical,so from dsp to each individual amp with each channel is optical the then speaker wire from amp out to speaker. Again any ideas and advice welcome. Car is a 2015 q40 bose with navigation. Starting budget is 5k. Again if more money is needed to get to end goal I'm not opposed to it and to stages so I can just add or upgrade to the starting 5k setup. Thank you all for any help. Also sorry for long winded post. As well as my apologies for any grammatical errors.

 

Any chance anyone can help a brother out. Thank you in advance.

 

Sounds like you already know what's up.
Except that it's so hard to modify our systems to accept and aftermarket radio in the first place...
That means most G owners haven't messed with the Bose system except to maybe add some bass.
Your question would probably be better posed on an audiophile forum.

 

telcoman's comment has been deleted.

The next time you insult a new member who is sincerely and politely looking for help, you will be banned.

Please test me on this resolve.

 

Since it seems you don't want to get neck deep into any serious re-fabrication of your vehicles interior, you are going to be limited to the stock driver placement; and while the actual locations within the Infiniti aren't bad, they do leave a bit of high frequency deficit in some locations. A Pillar pods work well and if your handy with tools and fiberglass, you can build your own. If you go this route, you will need to pick a tweeter that does not "beam" as you will need to maintain a fairly wide soundstage.

Ill avoid talking exact speakers as I've got most of my experience with a 2008 but some of the Bose drivers aren't bad. Experiment with them individually to get a feel for their characteristics but keep in mind these are 2 Ohm drivers and will not match well with 4 Ohm (or greater) and mixing and matching drivers may give you problems matching driver loudness at specific wattages. A carefully designed system will not alter the sound stage with increased volume until you get to ridiculously loud stage. In fact, I've read some discussions where increased volume helps the sound stage I think what murders music at higher volumes are cheap amps and speakers that cannot faithfully (and accurately) reproduce the frequency spectrum at loud levels.

You should also consider whether your going to do any noise abatement or deadening to the interior of the car; ideally before adding DPS's, amps or speakers you should deaden the cabin to your liking and build from there. Also keep in mind the interior has a most definite resonance frequency that will muck up the best system unless you compensate for it.

Optical is not going to happen unless you want to replace or seriously augment the stock head unit and i would seriously argue the economics of doing that. A properly designed and implemented analog or digital system is going to give you the same audible performance as an optically coupled one given your signal to noise inside a moving vehicle make an SN ratio greater than mid 80's. indistinguishable

I do recommend active eq's since not many people are skilled (qualified?) to design and construct properly matched passive crossover. Passive eq's are as much experience and art as engineering and fiddling is the order of the day when getting them "just right" I only did passive because I'm cheap and a masochist. The only issue I have with active eq's is people tend to over equalize things. Either method will require some trial and error as what sounds good in the garage sounds like crap at 70MPH with wind noise

5K is a good budget to start with but my experience tells me that everyone wants a little more after their first taste. However, there is a serious diminishing return on the Infiniti as its just not a movable version of your home system and while an additional 5K for speakers may make an impact on your home system, you just won't hear it in your car.

My overall recommendation is to talk with enthusiasts, consult audio forum's specific to car audio, go to sound off challenges and see what you like and what you don't like. Ask questions. Any installer who cannot let you listen to what there trying to sell you is a sham. Audio is highly subjective and personal, your ears are all that matters; not someone's opinion. This is loosely the order in which I proceeded and it served me well.

• Audition the speaker drivers you like and the amplifiers whose sound you find pleasing. Make a high quality audition playlist or CD so you test everything on the same music. Make notes
• Figure out if you have the skills to self install or if your going to seek a professional install.
• Evaluate if you have the fabrication tools and Electronic tuning equipment necessary to achieve your goal
• Determine the level of sound deadening you want to use
• Decide where your going to locate the additional gear. Figure out how to run power and signal lines cleanly to the gear.
• Don't forget the supporting platform (the car) will also need modification to supply the clean power to you equipment. Additional wiring and shielding can easily reach the $500-$800 range (More if your into the "Snake Oil" products that make claims based on their namesake or logo. Consult the factory service manuals to figure out how to "coexist" the wiring with the factory harness as much as possible
• Slowly map out what level of craziness you want to embark on to get the sound you want and ensure you stay within your budget
• Gather the hardware and "storyboard" your layout.
• ​​​​​​​Physically mount the drivers first. Purchase or fabricate solid mounts to secure each speaker to the car body. Nothing more irritating then discovering a rattle after you install a new midrange in your door
• Move on to the amps, crossover's and DSP's per your storyboard layout.
• ​​​​​​​Tune the system

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Thank you so much, for your feedback, it means the world. I'm learning how to navigate forums better with time, still very new. I will utilize all the above mentioned info and apply it. If I can be a better member please let me know how.
​​​​​​​ Kindly

 

Just let us all know what works, what doesn't and what you learn