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2011 G37s Windows Stuck Down no power to door controls at all
Windows on my 2011 g37s coupe won’t roll up or down , power locks don’t work with both door switches , & I also can’t unlock my doors from the button outside driver door . I’ve replaced the blue fusible link fuse under the hood and I’ve also replaced the master window switch & checked for breaks in the harness from the door to the body . Any body else have this problem & if so what solved it ? I’ve tried slamming the door and disconnecting the battery as well
Have you checked the passenger side kick panel/footwell area for water? The BCM controls your windows and locks (among other things) and this area is susceptible to water leaks.
The BCM supplies power to the windows, locks, and several other components. It is located on the passenger side behind this panel:
I am not saying it is your issue, but it needs to be checked.
Here is a easy test now that it is dark out. Go outside and turn the car on. Do the switches illuminate? Turn the headlights on as well and see if the window/lock switches (both sides) illuminate.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Dec 27, 2020 at 06:55 PM.
The BCM supplies power to the windows, locks, and several other components. It is located on the passenger side behind this panel:
I am not saying it is your issue, but it needs to be checked.
Here is a easy test now that it is dark out. Go outside and turn the car on. Do the switches illuminate? Turn the headlights on as well and see if the window/lock switches (both sides) illuminate.
They didn’t illuminate but I don’t see any water damage or corrosion
It would appear that your window switches are it getting any power- especially since they do not illuminate.
Do you have access to a multimeter? If so, locate the 3 wire connector at the BCM:
You need to check for voltage at each of these three wires. With the KEY ON (NOT ACC) check each of those 3 wires. They should read 12V+.
If everything checks out at the BCM (you have power) then we move on to the door harnesses which will be a little more involved.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Dec 28, 2020 at 10:14 AM.
So, you have 12V+ at all 3 wires on the BCM connector?
Where are you measuring 5V?
At the (driver) window switch, pins 1&10 should read 12V as these are the two wires directly connected to the BCM:
So, you have 12V+ at all 3 wires on the BCM connector?
Where are you measuring 5V?
At the (driver) window switch, pins 1&10 should read 12V as these are the two wires directly connected to the BCM:
yes I’m measuring 5v at the pwr window switch both 1 & 10 are reading 5v with key on my pin 1 isn’t yellow either it’s white
Last edited by CoupeQ37s; Dec 28, 2020 at 09:55 PM.
Something is not quite right...
I don't see how you are getting 12V+ at the BCM while you are only getting 5V+ at the opposite end.
I'm attaching the schematics from the FSM for a 2011 Coupe:
I can not see where 5V is coming from. You are testing voltage with the switch disconnected?
Something is not quite right...
I don't see how you are getting 12V+ at the BCM while you are only getting 5V+ at the opposite end.
I'm attaching the schematics from the FSM for a 2011 Coupe:
I can not see where 5V is coming from. You are testing voltage with the switch disconnected?
As I said before, if the BCM is showing 12V at pin #2, the other end of that wire, window switch pin #1 (pass #10) must read 12V. If you are only getting 5V- then you have a wiring issue.
Did this problem just come up or was this a result of being side swiped?
Can you post a pic of the driver side window switch CONNECTOR (w/wires)?
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Dec 29, 2020 at 06:11 PM.
