If anyone can help me out. I would like to know the amperage draw from your coupe while sitting with the doors closed and lights out. I am having the dead battery issue and the dealer is yanking me around because of the sub and Magden computer in the trunk. I know it is BS but I would like to know the draw from some other cars.

After closing the door and waiting about 45 seconds the draw hovers around .18 amps.

If you have a multimeter, help a brother out and let me know what you get. Thanks.

 

Tell your dealer to take his theory and shove it up his ***.
I am running 200+ A of draw with my sub and have no battery problems. The alternator is rated at 160A, with a solid battery it should be capable of handling a 2500+ watt amp.

To be honest with you, I would upgrade your battery yourself to this bad boy:
Products « XS Power
Scroll down and look at the D975 or D1200.

 

I already installed an Optima. Just so I wouldn't have to deal with the dealership. They changed the Vent Control Valve but are jacking me around with the BCM replacement. And I need the readings with the car not running so as we all know that ANY amp has no bearing on the readings.

Sorry if I didn't explain myself better. Other calls are in to Infiniti, but I just want to know what other peoples draw is with a cold car.

 

Ohh ok! haha Sorry, don't have a DMM to check.....

 

If you have a draw of .18A (or 180mA) your battery is probably only lasting 2-4 days. From the factory the Gs have a somewhat high idle state draw around 35mA (25mA used to be the standard). Anything past 50mA (0.050A) I consider too much.

180mA sounds like a relay is staying energized. Do you have an aftermarket alarm? You should be able to quickly test the dealerships theory and simply unplug the aftermarket equipment.

Unfortunately for you the dealerships will always point to aftermarket equipment when they find something wrong. Luckily for you it should be simple enough to unhook your added stuff and have them recheck the current draw. Finding excessive current draws ALWAYS starts with aftermarket stuff and then moves to factory circuits if the problem isn't found.

 

Thanks for the reply Kevin. Great info.

My aftermarket stuff includes amp and sub, Magden comp and a PS2.
Amp and sub - no draw.
Magden - no draw.
PS2 - .014A (14mA) while in stand-by

Yeah my battery lasts about 5 days. But dying battery only started about 4 months ago. Aftermarket stuff installed 1.5 years ago.

I have no prob with disconnecting stuff but stupid dealer didn't even record amperage draw before disconnecting. So they have no idea if it really makes a difference. And they treat us like we are the stupid ones.

 

Did you actually measure the draws or are you going by stated values? If the power supply of any of the components has a bad capacitor in it the draws can creep up (and this goes for OEM electronics too). Another source of unexplained current draw can be a bad diode in an alternator. I do believe the older Gs had issues with a component in the radio going bad leading to dead batteries. There are lots of possibilities and unfortunately the dealership always points to aftermarket equipment first.

 

No I tested. Stuck my multimeter inline to get values. Just so I could go back to the dealer and know what I am talking about, you know.

The power draw fluctuates about 20-30mA so I am thinking that there is something actively going on with the car. And thinking it is the BCM since so many other people are having issues with it and the TSB. And they are really dragging their feet on upgrading it.

Unfortunately I don't have a peak recording MM to see if it spikes or not.