I've had an Alpine HU before, but never amps. I'm considering them because of good reviews I've read, their very small size, the class D operation that doesn't generate much heat, and the fact that I can easily power a set of comps and a sub from one amp. Does anyone have experience with any of the newer PDX serises?

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...+pdx&i=500PDX5

 

Oh yeah. No doubt. As long as the subs aren't too power hungry. I plan on buying their 4-channel PDX and running 2 10" W1's along with components up front. Should be a nice little setup. I don't plan on it being crazy. But certainly capable.

 

Just remember that those amps are rated at 1 percent thd at 14.4 volts! Don't expect to get their full rated power... quite a few amps are following suit with this new standard of rating.. such as JL's new small amps that are coming soon... Be prepared to compare apples to oranges when it comes to amp specs... Just a heads up.

 

I had the 4.150 and the 1.1000 in my M45 before I traded it for the G37. I sold these amps on eBay since I wasn't(at the time) planning a system in the G. These are excellent amps, no doubt. I had them paired with some MBQuart Q-Series seperates and a pair of JL 8W7 on the 1.1000. The system was amazing and I regret partin with it all.

For the money and more important size, you can't beat these amps. I would have bought the new 600.1 version for my sub system I am designing, but didn't need that much power for my 10w1 JL and the little rockford amp I bought 300-1 has a remote base boost that the Alpines don't. Overall they are superior amps.

 

Understood. The 14.4 v power rating is pretty typical of most modern charging systems and 1% THD is acceptable for me. I have seen a few reviewers actually bench them at slightly above rated power at 14.4. I am only powering a set of comps and a single 10" sub (until you get finished producing the enclosure for the passenger side! )

I'm waiting for availability of the PDX-5 which is 75 x 4 + 300 x 1. It will allow me to run the comps passive or active with enough power for them to sound good.

 

you'll never see 14.4 volts continuously when you are driving around unless maybe every thing in your car is off.....or unless your charging system is messed up. Now, as far as 1% THD that is ok for a class D sub amp, but absolutely not ok for an aftermarket amp for highs and mids. Never look at max power......always look at RMS. Alpine amps are decent so if you are set on it, which it sounds you are, you'll be fine.

 

Interesting. What would you expect that it would be? Or have you checked it with the alternator under load?

And FWIW, I don't think I'll need it to deliver any more power than that. An efficient set of comps rated for 80-100 RMS will be just great with 150ish watts per side I'd say. At least I would think so. I think way too many folks get into numbers games and are misled by statistics. And the PDX from all I can gather are not a true class D amp and the rating is RMS not Max power, unless I'm mistaken.

 

yes, i've checked many alternators under load hehe, I used to sell and test them all the time. I also used to sell car audio and compete. I'm not up to date on alpine stuff, but I was Alpine certified when I did sell. Unless things have drastically changed in the Alpine camp anything they sell is decent to very high quality. I would look more into signal to noise ratio then THD typically. I personally would never buy an amp unless it's S/N was 95+ , that is just my preference, but for a sub I think 80-90 or greater will be ok. Also when looking at THD always make sure they are rating full bandwidth = 20hz-20Khz and not at a single frequency such as 1000hz. In the case of a sub amp they might only rate them for a lower frequency range. As long as the range starts low at around 20hz it should be fine. Alot of companies will cheat the system that way because it is extremely easy for an amp to produce power at a single frequency like that vs full bandwidth.

 

I hate when amps are rated at 14.4 ... It makes me think the company is trying to overrate there actual common power...

I keep my radar detector on the Volt Display and when I am playing my system it ranges from 12v to 13.x Volts...

Oct... you should make a post about the "what to look for" in amps... example... Look for true RMS power and not Max power, or what Volts to look for... ya know stuff like that... It sounds like you know what you talking about and it could help alot of car audio newbs out...

what ya think?