P0106 Service Engine Soon Code
08-05-2016, 05:46 PM
#16
I have the same code, I cleared it myself 2x and this is the 3rd time it popped up. Car feels normal so thats good. I cleaned the sensor itself and it was junky. Light stayed on anways.
My car is tuned, and I still have factory warranty on it and I'm hesitant to bring it to the dealer because I'm afraid my tune will be gone. I have the tune saved and I can download the "back to stock rom" and flash it before bringing it but if they update the ECU and I flash back my tuned file then the light would just come back on.
I emailed another tuner and he gave me the following information.
"The easiest thing to do if all your looking for is to get rid of that DTC, is have your tuner disable the DTC from within the tune. This will fix that problem. I could also do it for you if the tune file is not locked.
From what I have seen, the dealer network does show an update to the ROM file but the update still did not fix it by disabling it. Many of the dealers are also not in the know of what most of the ROM updates are for. So when they see an update, they don't even know what its for and why there is an update.
If you do decide to take it to the dealer, make sure you do go back to stock. You won't be able to use your old tune file since it will just reflash the new update back to the old tuned version.
So, best thing is have the tune modified."
I mentioned disabling the light does not fix the problem right? His response.
"The actual problem is just that. Nissan\Infiniti in the later years disables that particular DTC along with a couple of other ones they realized are problematic. So this fix is for good. It's like they were accidentally turned ON for no good reason."
Well what if I actually have a problem with the light disabled how will I know?
"No, it doesn't serve a purpose that needs it to throw a code. So don't worry about it. Like I mentioned, the newer ROMs don't have them enabled so they are obviously not worried about it."
He charged me a very low fee IMO so I just went with it. I still have the "back to stock rom"
"tuned rom"
"modified rom"
Just flashed it yesterday and the light is gone. OH here is some info from Infiniti as well.
http://www.infinitig37.com/TSB/ITB12-026a.pdf
seems like a known problem.
Hope this helps someone
My car is tuned, and I still have factory warranty on it and I'm hesitant to bring it to the dealer because I'm afraid my tune will be gone. I have the tune saved and I can download the "back to stock rom" and flash it before bringing it but if they update the ECU and I flash back my tuned file then the light would just come back on.
I emailed another tuner and he gave me the following information.
"The easiest thing to do if all your looking for is to get rid of that DTC, is have your tuner disable the DTC from within the tune. This will fix that problem. I could also do it for you if the tune file is not locked.
From what I have seen, the dealer network does show an update to the ROM file but the update still did not fix it by disabling it. Many of the dealers are also not in the know of what most of the ROM updates are for. So when they see an update, they don't even know what its for and why there is an update.
If you do decide to take it to the dealer, make sure you do go back to stock. You won't be able to use your old tune file since it will just reflash the new update back to the old tuned version.
So, best thing is have the tune modified."
I mentioned disabling the light does not fix the problem right? His response.
"The actual problem is just that. Nissan\Infiniti in the later years disables that particular DTC along with a couple of other ones they realized are problematic. So this fix is for good. It's like they were accidentally turned ON for no good reason."
Well what if I actually have a problem with the light disabled how will I know?
"No, it doesn't serve a purpose that needs it to throw a code. So don't worry about it. Like I mentioned, the newer ROMs don't have them enabled so they are obviously not worried about it."
He charged me a very low fee IMO so I just went with it. I still have the "back to stock rom"
"tuned rom"
"modified rom"
Just flashed it yesterday and the light is gone. OH here is some info from Infiniti as well.
http://www.infinitig37.com/TSB/ITB12-026a.pdf
seems like a known problem.
Hope this helps someone
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jcoopsCoupe (01-02-2020)
01-31-2017, 08:14 PM
#17
Registered Member
I had this same problem. The P0106 code would come and go, but lately it would not go away. The answer is to clean the black, sticky coking buildup that occurs around the throttle plates in both of the throttle bodies. Only four bolts. With a scan tool, take notice of the TPS A/B percentages. They should be around 1% at idle if all is clean. Mine were at 3.9%. After cleaning the throttle plates these percentages dropped back to 1%. The car also idles very smoothly again, and much less touchy on the throttle.
The dirty throttle body actually is related to the baro sensor fault because the ECU expects a particular value from the baro sensor at idle and incorrectly blames the baro sensor since the TPS is open wider than desired to maintain the minimum idles speed.
My car started acting up around 75k miles, and just got worse at setting this code, taking longer and longer to clear on its own. It finally got to the point where the P0106 code would no longer clear on its own, and would set within about two hours. I have been driving it for about a week and the code has NOT returned. I also had an issue where it would occasionally stall on a cold start. I am thinking that this will no longer happen either.
I would appreciate replies if this works for others as well.
The dirty throttle body actually is related to the baro sensor fault because the ECU expects a particular value from the baro sensor at idle and incorrectly blames the baro sensor since the TPS is open wider than desired to maintain the minimum idles speed.
My car started acting up around 75k miles, and just got worse at setting this code, taking longer and longer to clear on its own. It finally got to the point where the P0106 code would no longer clear on its own, and would set within about two hours. I have been driving it for about a week and the code has NOT returned. I also had an issue where it would occasionally stall on a cold start. I am thinking that this will no longer happen either.
I would appreciate replies if this works for others as well.
04-25-2017, 04:24 PM
#18
My 2011 G37 Sedan Journey has 68K miles on it with only a catback exhaust. No engine tuning or intake work has been done. It popped the Service Engine Soon light about three days ago. My AGT Advanced OBDII Reader (Amazon.com) could not read the code - it kept saying connection error after it would cycle through its five standard OBDII protocols. So today I went to AutoZone and they pulled up P0106 just like the OP. However, they also printed out two recommended buys - both were Hitachi "MAP Sensor Original OE Part" (Part # PRS0002 and PRS0003 - the latter being nearby the brake booster according to the AutoZone tech). I advised I would run this code past the good folks on the forum and then figure out next steps.
Sounds like I need to check vacuum hoses and then turn my attention to the throttle bodies and potentially clean them. I plan to do this in the coming days and will report back with my results.
Sounds like I need to check vacuum hoses and then turn my attention to the throttle bodies and potentially clean them. I plan to do this in the coming days and will report back with my results.
04-28-2017, 02:27 PM
#19
Update: Cleaned both throttle bodies, which were mildly gummed up; left wiring connectors in-tact and avoided manually opening the butterfly valve as much as possible. SES did not go away, but acceleration felt a bit more responsive and crisp. Scheduled an appointment with the Infiniti dealership next Tues to have them diagnose and potentially update the software.
04-29-2017, 04:12 PM
#20
Registered Member
My 2010 G37, 78k miles, threw this code a few days ago. It specifically said, "MAP/BARO out of range or had a bad performance problem for predetermined period of time." I cleaned the air filters, MAF sensors, and disconnected the negative terminal for a few minutes. Drove it 20 min. and the code didn't pop back on. I'll report back if it comes on.
05-02-2017, 01:16 PM
#21
Took my car into Coulter Infiniti in Mesa this morning. They used the TSB to reflash the ECU. Besides the SES light going away, I noticed the acceleration felt more crisp and the A/T shifts were much more smooth. No abruptness at all as I had been experiencing. It truly felt like a new car from a drivetrain standpoint. Dealership charged $145 for the work and I would say it was money well-spent.
05-31-2017, 04:12 PM
#23
Registered Member
In regard to my previous post: Has not come back on since I disconnected the negative for a few minutes. Need to clean out throttle body anyway soon. And I raced it in a cone road course 3 weeks ago. Still no light.
10-28-2018, 06:22 PM
#24
One *FIX* I Successfully Used
I'm posting so others may benefit from my HOURS & HOURS of troubleshooting and research. The core issue on the P0106 [MAP Sensor; NOT to be confused with the MAF sensor, which is VERY commonly confused with it] is the need to clean the throttle bodies, Yes, no kidding, and my code vanished and everything's terrific w/ my 2011 G37 S again for two months on now. 
) Word on the Web is that the problem tends to arise when you have ~70k miles on your car, but I've seen folks have it as low as ~50k (may depend on fuel grade, climate, etc.). You need to get yourself some Throttle Body Cleaner @ the auto parts store (I got mine @ Pep Boys website on sale for $4.99/can, but expect to pay ~$10/can). The carbon/gum/varnish/"dirt" occluding the opening apparently "fools" the MAP sensor, since I'm guessing the throttle opening angle begins at a higher angle of attack to compensate for the SLIGHTLY blocked opening. [You won't "see" much of a blockage, but thoroughly cleaning both sides of the plate and the throttle body itself will fix it]. Online rumors state that Infiniti will "disable" the code with a flash of the PCM ROM, but that's well north of $100 simply to "disable" the code, which is NOT fixing the problem. Note that my engine ran FINE, and that's typical. I made the mistake of buying a new MAP [I paid ~$70, but the market's @ ~$100 as of 10/2018] and it made NO DIFFERENCE, except the check engine light (CEL) took a little longer to come on, which was probably just the computer "calibrating" the new sensor. Sorry for the tech talk; can you tell I'm an engineer?!? ;o)
In the People's Republic of California, that light so much as flickers @ smog test time and you FAIL, whether it's running great or not(!), so I'm a believer in fixing it and doing necessary maintenance on your car at the same time. As such, even if this doesn't work for you, you are not "out" anything, so why not try it? OK, now onto the links that will show you how to get it done. Note I do NOT recommend removing the throttle bodies from the car, as some writers/videographers suggest, as this puts you into the whole "idle learning procedure"/ECU reset that's a pain to do and unnecessary. Here's the how-to information:
Explanation of UNDOCUMENTED issue (except via Snap-on scanner):
Video of the job, which is easier than it looks at first:
DO NOT move the butterfly itself by hand; you will screw up the calibration of the computer, requiring you to reset the ECU (see below if that happens to you).
THE TRICK: To clean the internal bore of the throttle body, turn the ignition all the way "on," then push the accelerator all the way to the floor. A helper in the car is ideal, but since I live alone, I wedged a mob handle between the seat and the accelerator pedal, then went around and cleaned out the bores thoroughly. You'll hear the throttle control solenoids "whistle" slightly; that's OK. DON'T SKIP this crucial step to getting the best job. BEWARE: I read that the throttle butterflies are geared such that they can pinch/injure your fingers SERIOUSLY, so consider putting a wooden stick or something inside to prevent accidental closure. Here is the video that tells you how to let the car do all the work and AVOID the ECU relearning procedure altogether:
If you get stuck for some reason and have to do the relearning procedure for the ECU to get your idle back to normal:
Good luck!
) Word on the Web is that the problem tends to arise when you have ~70k miles on your car, but I've seen folks have it as low as ~50k (may depend on fuel grade, climate, etc.). You need to get yourself some Throttle Body Cleaner @ the auto parts store (I got mine @ Pep Boys website on sale for $4.99/can, but expect to pay ~$10/can). The carbon/gum/varnish/"dirt" occluding the opening apparently "fools" the MAP sensor, since I'm guessing the throttle opening angle begins at a higher angle of attack to compensate for the SLIGHTLY blocked opening. [You won't "see" much of a blockage, but thoroughly cleaning both sides of the plate and the throttle body itself will fix it]. Online rumors state that Infiniti will "disable" the code with a flash of the PCM ROM, but that's well north of $100 simply to "disable" the code, which is NOT fixing the problem. Note that my engine ran FINE, and that's typical. I made the mistake of buying a new MAP [I paid ~$70, but the market's @ ~$100 as of 10/2018] and it made NO DIFFERENCE, except the check engine light (CEL) took a little longer to come on, which was probably just the computer "calibrating" the new sensor. Sorry for the tech talk; can you tell I'm an engineer?!? ;o)In the People's Republic of California, that light so much as flickers @ smog test time and you FAIL, whether it's running great or not(!), so I'm a believer in fixing it and doing necessary maintenance on your car at the same time. As such, even if this doesn't work for you, you are not "out" anything, so why not try it? OK, now onto the links that will show you how to get it done. Note I do NOT recommend removing the throttle bodies from the car, as some writers/videographers suggest, as this puts you into the whole "idle learning procedure"/ECU reset that's a pain to do and unnecessary. Here's the how-to information:
Explanation of UNDOCUMENTED issue (except via Snap-on scanner):
Video of the job, which is easier than it looks at first:
DO NOT move the butterfly itself by hand; you will screw up the calibration of the computer, requiring you to reset the ECU (see below if that happens to you).
THE TRICK: To clean the internal bore of the throttle body, turn the ignition all the way "on," then push the accelerator all the way to the floor. A helper in the car is ideal, but since I live alone, I wedged a mob handle between the seat and the accelerator pedal, then went around and cleaned out the bores thoroughly. You'll hear the throttle control solenoids "whistle" slightly; that's OK. DON'T SKIP this crucial step to getting the best job. BEWARE: I read that the throttle butterflies are geared such that they can pinch/injure your fingers SERIOUSLY, so consider putting a wooden stick or something inside to prevent accidental closure. Here is the video that tells you how to let the car do all the work and AVOID the ECU relearning procedure altogether:
If you get stuck for some reason and have to do the relearning procedure for the ECU to get your idle back to normal:
Good luck!
Last edited by prizmeye; 10-28-2018 at 11:27 PM. Reason: Add link to butterfly handling video
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jcoopsCoupe (01-02-2020)
11-04-2018, 09:21 AM
#25
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i've replace spark plugs and cleaned both TB yesterday and it was easier to remove both of them and reprogram ecu after as its only 3 simple steps to get it done.
the SES light is still on the car but i havent put any miles since yesterday, i hope this goes away in next couple day
will check for leaks just to make sure everything is good
car has 118K miles about it was time to get this done as plugs and TB were do
will update later
the SES light is still on the car but i havent put any miles since yesterday, i hope this goes away in next couple day
will check for leaks just to make sure everything is good
car has 118K miles about it was time to get this done as plugs and TB were do
will update later
05-06-2023, 01:27 PM
#27
Registered Member
I changed my air filters for my cold air intakes last year. R2C whom I found out are no longer in business since November of last year sent me the wrong ones for my airboxes last summer. Since the I had nothing but issues with codes popping up all the time. My dealer up here in Montreal, Spinelli charges much less than some independent garages who quote "by the book" and their hourly rates are similar so I go there. The head A tech knows my car since I purchased it from them in July 2012. I bought my R2C intakes in August about 6 weeks later and had 0 issues and then in 2018 I installed an Invidia Gemini Cat Back system and headers then had the car dyno tuned with UpRev Osiris ver 2.0 and the car ran perfectly until last when they shipped me different intakes. My dealer mechanic ran tests this week and this is what he found. The volumetric are coming in from the intakes was 87% left side and 88% right side vs 99%+ both sides with stock intakes! Also they cleaned the throttle bodies last year and we thought it was related to this as the car was acting weird and would throw codes and the idle relearn had to be redone. Well after almost a year of searching and investigating and costing me new MAFs and diagnostic time while in Florida with my car and costing me close to $2000 it came down the those stupid air filters. I'm going to drive with the stock intakes for a couple of weeks to confirm that this was indeed the problem and if all is ok then I''ll put the aftermarket ones back on with newer different brand better air filters. I'm going with Vibrant. Air filters.... go figure and that explains why the car was running so rich and bucking, limp mode, stalling, starting and throwing code after code since July/August last year!
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