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Its auto, yes, same ****. The boot is from redlinegoods, same as the steering wheel cover so it all matches. i just used the silver shifter bezel to sandwich the leather in place and its perfect. You still see your gears on your dash, and just muscle memory.
Thanks, that’s perfect. I may have to sell my steering wheel wrap that I purchased and order the one from them so it will match also. That is exactly what I’m looking for. I was planning on doing the steering whee within the next few days, looks like I’m going to have to wait a little bit longer. I appreciate the info.
Yeah and redline you can really customize, even do a flat bottom if you want. you can ask for leather samples ahead of time. And its very high-quality leather. You can even send your steering wheel in to be wrapped professionally. Its not that hard to do yourself, I've wrapped mine 3 times now with different colours lol.
As you can see here, it's matched pretty well. I asked for a few samples first.
P.S. to attach to the shift ****, I used some 3M double-sided tape where the leather is folded over, and its tightly wrapped and tied with coated stainless steel beading wire. The wire is concentrated where the two pieces of the shaft meet, so it has a natural groove which I made a little deeper with a fine file. The whole thing feels super tight and solid, like OEM.
Yeah and redline you can really customize, even do a flat bottom if you want. you can ask for leather samples ahead of time. And its very high-quality leather. You can even send your steering wheel in to be wrapped professionally. Its not that hard to do yourself, I've wrapped mine 3 times now with different colours lol.
As you can see here, it's matched pretty well. I asked for a few samples first.
P.S. to attach to the shift ****, I used some 3M double-sided tape where the leather is folded over, and its tightly wrapped and tied with coated stainless steel beading wire. The wire is concentrated where the two pieces of the shaft meet, so it has a natural groove which I made a little deeper with a fine file. The whole thing feels super tight and solid, like OEM.
That’s what I was wondering, exactly how did you mount the boot to the ****. So I just need to make a little bit more distinctive groove for the wire to lock into and hold it in place? Looks really good in your car. The **** itself has some play in it, side to side. It’s not much but it’s enough to drive me crazy being I am usually a perfectionist when I do certain things. I’m going to look into something to keep it from doing that tomorrow. But for now overall I am happy with the way it looks.
I had looked at a few things from redlinegoods not too long ago. There were a couple things that I wanted from them, and now there are a couple more. Good to know that is very good quality, you usually get what you pay for.
I appreciate the info and the pictures. I’m just happy that I didn’t put the steering wheel cover on and then realize soon after that I wanted to change it for another one. I’ve been holding off putting it on because I just haven’t had the time yet.
First off, want to say thanks to Charles @ B2 Autodesigns for getting us a nice price on this high quality part. The shift **** comes well packaged and is machined to a high quality fit & finish.
This is my version of the install, there are a few ways to handle the mating of the shift boot. Keep in mind, if you cut the OEM boot I'm not sure you can buy just the boot from Infiniti/Nissan, the whole shift column/panel is quite expensive, just want to give a heads up. If anyone can verify if you can indeed just buy the boot, let us know.
Here's some install pics & info~
To remove the OEM ****, just hold the collar on both sides and firmly press down, the collar will snap off and you can slide the boot down to expose the "U" clip.
Just pull the 2 outward prongs out and slide the clip back, then just pull up on the **** to remove, then replace that clip back on the **** since it's very small (and probably costly to replace).
Once you get the **** off you need to remove the shift console cover, this is simple but you MUST use a plastic pry tool of some sort, I have a variety of these cheap Harbor Freight body panel tools that I use. If all you have is a small screwdriver try to protect the panels by using a couple thin credit cards on the outside of the screwdriver head. You then just pry up in each rear corner to release the pawls.
Once you get the back of the panel lifted you then need to pull down on the front (above the ashtray). You then need to move the shifter into neutral, just push the white release rod to get out of park. Once in neutral you can then get the cover up and over the shifter, just be careful not to pull on the wiring. Just set it on its' side and pull the boot inside-out so you can cut the zip tie that holds the collar, need a sharp exacto blade to cut it clean, be careful as you don't want to cut the boot
After you cut the zip tie you can decide what you want to do w/ the mating of the boot. After some trial & error I decided to remove the OEM collar and pull the boot up to the straight section of the shift ****. This setup allows the boot to be in the best place without interfering w/ shifting.
The black plastic sleeve goes inside the collar w/ the 2 set screws. This is a very tight fit, which is good, but you need to get it down just far enough, otherwise you'll have to use a gear puller to get the collar back up (don't ask me how I know )
Once you decide on your boot setup, put the boot back over the shift rod, then put the panel loosely back in place
Put threaded lower tapered piece on first
You set it up so the LONG set screws are at 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock when looking straight down the shift rod. You place the plastic sleeve just barely on the rod w/ the full cutout at 12 and the half cutout at 3, the cutout MUST be on top w/ the closed section facing downward, this will allow the sleeve to slide down w/ the collar when the set screw is inserted and tightened down just enough to contact the shift rod, hopefully this makes sense. Attachment 136726
Use a extended socket to careful hammer the collar down, be sure the plastic sleeve is lined up properly and the 3 oclock set scre is in far enough to hold the sleeve as you hammer it down.
Be SURE to only go down this far (5/8") (again, don't ask me how I know). Attachment 136728
Once you get it to the proper depth you then change the long set screws for the shorter ones, then just tighten them up real snug
I then like to apply teflon tape to the threads just to make it easier to engage and remove.
You then install spring and thread the **** on, pull the boot up, and presto! The zip tie is temporary FWIW, I think I'll be using a thin amount of the boot and put it right above the tapered piece and just clamp it down by threading the **** down on it.
If any of you get this **** and try a different boot mount please post up pics & info on this thread, would be nice to see what other options you can try.
Brad
Took about 90 minutes FWIW.
CAN sombody please post a video of the installation pictures doesn’t do it justice I need a step by step installation video in order to do this
CAN sombody please post a video of the installation pictures doesn’t do it justice I need a step by step installation video in order to do this
This may come off harsh, but the pictures are more than enough for the install, it's a simple process. If everyone in here managed to do the install off the photos, you shouldn't have issues either. If you know how to twist a set screw into place and hammer something, you're more than equipped to do this.
First off, want to say thanks to Charles @ B2 Autodesigns for getting us a nice price on this high quality part. The shift **** comes well packaged and is machined to a high quality fit & finish.
This is my version of the install, there are a few ways to handle the mating of the shift boot. Keep in mind, if you cut the OEM boot I'm not sure you can buy just the boot from Infiniti/Nissan, the whole shift column/panel is quite expensive, just want to give a heads up. If anyone can verify if you can indeed just buy the boot, let us know.
Here's some install pics & info~
To remove the OEM ****, just hold the collar on both sides and firmly press down, the collar will snap off and you can slide the boot down to expose the "U" clip.
Just pull the 2 outward prongs out and slide the clip back, then just pull up on the **** to remove, then replace that clip back on the **** since it's very small (and probably costly to replace).
Once you get the **** off you need to remove the shift console cover, this is simple but you MUST use a plastic pry tool of some sort, I have a variety of these cheap Harbor Freight body panel tools that I use. If all you have is a small screwdriver try to protect the panels by using a couple thin credit cards on the outside of the screwdriver head. You then just pry up in each rear corner to release the pawls.
Once you get the back of the panel lifted you then need to pull down on the front (above the ashtray). You then need to move the shifter into neutral, just push the white release rod to get out of park. Once in neutral you can then get the cover up and over the shifter, just be careful not to pull on the wiring. Just set it on its' side and pull the boot inside-out so you can cut the zip tie that holds the collar, need a sharp exacto blade to cut it clean, be careful as you don't want to cut the boot
After you cut the zip tie you can decide what you want to do w/ the mating of the boot. After some trial & error I decided to remove the OEM collar and pull the boot up to the straight section of the shift ****. This setup allows the boot to be in the best place without interfering w/ shifting.
The black plastic sleeve goes inside the collar w/ the 2 set screws. This is a very tight fit, which is good, but you need to get it down just far enough, otherwise you'll have to use a gear puller to get the collar back up (don't ask me how I know )
Once you decide on your boot setup, put the boot back over the shift rod, then put the panel loosely back in place
Put threaded lower tapered piece on first
You set it up so the LONG set screws are at 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock when looking straight down the shift rod. You place the plastic sleeve just barely on the rod w/ the full cutout at 12 and the half cutout at 3, the cutout MUST be on top w/ the closed section facing downward, this will allow the sleeve to slide down w/ the collar when the set screw is inserted and tightened down just enough to contact the shift rod, hopefully this makes sense. Attachment 136726
Use a extended socket to careful hammer the collar down, be sure the plastic sleeve is lined up properly and the 3 oclock set scre is in far enough to hold the sleeve as you hammer it down.
Be SURE to only go down this far (5/8") (again, don't ask me how I know). Attachment 136728
Once you get it to the proper depth you then change the long set screws for the shorter ones, then just tighten them up real snug
I then like to apply teflon tape to the threads just to make it easier to engage and remove.
You then install spring and thread the **** on, pull the boot up, and presto! The zip tie is temporary FWIW, I think I'll be using a thin amount of the boot and put it right above the tapered piece and just clamp it down by threading the **** down on it.
If any of you get this **** and try a different boot mount please post up pics & info on this thread, would be nice to see what other options you can try.
Brad
Took about 90 minutes FWIW.
When I try to put the piece with the screws with the black sleeve then black sleeve doesn’t go all the way down it doesn’t let me. And the screws don’t wanna go all the way inside the piece so it gets blocked while going down
The black bit has a slot in it for the set screws, make sure thats aligned first and the screw is twisted in just enough to cover the thickness of the black piece. Thats when you can hammer it on with a socket.
09-28-2020, 07:56 PM
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