Help on winter rims
#16
#17
So I found a set of 350z touring V2? I hope they fits my 2008 g37s lol.
#18
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ng-wheels.html
#19
Looks like they will clear, just have to be careful w/ your wheel weight locations, probably at the very inside of the barrel by the looks of this thread~
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ng-wheels.html
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ng-wheels.html
Yea there is only like 2-4mm clearance to the barrel lol but hey it is winter set up, so handling is not the primary concern and certainly put the weights at the furthest inside of the barrel.
Blnewt, you have been so helpful and warmhearted. I greatly appreciate your knowledge and timely reply.
Mac
#20
Looks like they will clear, just have to be careful w/ your wheel weight locations, probably at the very inside of the barrel by the looks of this thread~
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ng-wheels.html
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ng-wheels.html
Last edited by Machelen; 06-21-2017 at 02:12 AM.
#21
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
That area in the template is where that post from the Z site I linked will come into play. You'll have clearance but it won't be much, so avoid any wheel weights in that part of the barrel. As far as the stud length, can't help w/ that, you want to get at least 6 full turns on the nut when torqued to 80-85 ft lbs, if you have less than that you'll need new studs, if you have too many turns and the nuts get bottomed-out you might just want some 3mm spacers.
There's been a couple guys running those exact wheels on the site and don't recall them saying there were issues w/ the lug nuts, but ????
There's been a couple guys running those exact wheels on the site and don't recall them saying there were issues w/ the lug nuts, but ????
#22
That area in the template is where that post from the Z site I linked will come into play. You'll have clearance but it won't be much, so avoid any wheel weights in that part of the barrel. As far as the stud length, can't help w/ that, you want to get at least 6 full turns on the nut when torqued to 80-85 ft lbs, if you have less than that you'll need new studs, if you have too many turns and the nuts get bottomed-out you might just want some 3mm spacers.
There's been a couple guys running those exact wheels on the site and don't recall them saying there were issues w/ the lug nuts, but ????
There's been a couple guys running those exact wheels on the site and don't recall them saying there were issues w/ the lug nuts, but ????
THanks. I tried to PM them but I guess either I am not as attractive as Kardashian or they probably are not active on the forum anymore.
#23
Super Moderator
iTrader: (7)
The accepted engineering practice is to have half-a-nut worth of thread extending past the top of the nut when torqued.
Also, do not lube threads. Published torque readings are for dry threads. I tried but was unable to locate a rule-of-thumb regarding torque change when using lubed threads. All kinds of bogus info on the interwebs if you search. Only thing to do is measure bolt stretch on dry threads then duplicate the stretch after lubing.
Also, do not lube threads. Published torque readings are for dry threads. I tried but was unable to locate a rule-of-thumb regarding torque change when using lubed threads. All kinds of bogus info on the interwebs if you search. Only thing to do is measure bolt stretch on dry threads then duplicate the stretch after lubing.
#24
The accepted engineering practice is to have half-a-nut worth of thread extending past the top of the nut when torqued.
Also, do not lube threads. Published torque readings are for dry threads. I tried but was unable to locate a rule-of-thumb regarding torque change when using lubed threads. All kinds of bogus info on the interwebs if you search. Only thing to do is measure bolt stretch on dry threads then duplicate the stretch after lubing.
Also, do not lube threads. Published torque readings are for dry threads. I tried but was unable to locate a rule-of-thumb regarding torque change when using lubed threads. All kinds of bogus info on the interwebs if you search. Only thing to do is measure bolt stretch on dry threads then duplicate the stretch after lubing.
#26
That area in the template is where that post from the Z site I linked will come into play. You'll have clearance but it won't be much, so avoid any wheel weights in that part of the barrel. As far as the stud length, can't help w/ that, you want to get at least 6 full turns on the nut when torqued to 80-85 ft lbs, if you have less than that you'll need new studs, if you have too many turns and the nuts get bottomed-out you might just want some 3mm spacers.
There's been a couple guys running those exact wheels on the site and don't recall them saying there were issues w/ the lug nuts, but ????
There's been a couple guys running those exact wheels on the site and don't recall them saying there were issues w/ the lug nuts, but ????
Just letting you know cuz I know you would help more people , Touring v2 fits perfect on 2008 g37s with akebono.
We do need to change lug nuts but not the bolts. This is due to special OEM nuts on G37s, which uses washer with the nuts. We will get about 10 turns on the 350z OEM nuts with G37s OEM bolts.
As for clearance. on the front, the closest point is more than 3-4mm to caliper from the barrel or more than 2 loonies. I personally think that is about 5mm. Still better to put weight behind the spoke just in case some pebble on road wont get stuck in there and damage the caliper.