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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 05:18 PM
  #16  
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I've been searching through threads and I'm having trouble finding what the max horse these engines can take without new internals etc... can anyone point me in the right direction or help me with some info.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 09:04 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by MidnightDiP
I've been searching through threads and I'm having trouble finding what the max horse these engines can take without new internals etc... can anyone point me in the right direction or help me with some info.
If you have an automatic, then the weak point is your transmission. If you have a manual, then the top end of your motor is the weak point.

Automatic transmissions typically start slipping gears around 400hp, and must be remedied with a valve body upgrade or transmission build. Manual transmissions benefit from an upgrades clutch and flywheel, too.

The motor can take around 375-425 horsepower with stock internals for a while. It depends how the horsepower is delivered. I would feel comfortable saying a supercharged motor can tolerate 425hp with stock internals, but I would not say the same with a turbo. Turbo design generally slams engine components harder than a supercharger, so it wears parts more. Anything high 300's and up will eventually blow the motor, the question is how long you can go before it happens.
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 10:56 PM
  #18  
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dont forget about impul and tommy kaira.
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 01:31 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by GoFightNguyen
If you have an automatic, then the weak point is your transmission. If you have a manual, then the top end of your motor is the weak point.

Automatic transmissions typically start slipping gears around 400hp, and must be remedied with a valve body upgrade or transmission build. Manual transmissions benefit from an upgrades clutch and flywheel, too.

The motor can take around 375-425 horsepower with stock internals for a while. It depends how the horsepower is delivered. I would feel comfortable saying a supercharged motor can tolerate 425hp with stock internals, but I would not say the same with a turbo. Turbo design generally slams engine components harder than a supercharger, so it wears parts more. Anything high 300's and up will eventually blow the motor, the question is how long you can go before it happens.
Im looking into buying a used kit right now, which ever catches my eye the most is what I'll go with, mostly I'm leaning towards twin turbo. These numbers are at the wheels correct?
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 09:20 AM
  #20  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by MidnightDiP
Im looking into buying a used kit right now, which ever catches my eye the most is what I'll go with, mostly I'm leaning towards twin turbo. These numbers are at the wheels correct?
Unless you know the guy personally, or it's someone *really* well vetted on the forum, I would avoid buying used forced induction kits. The manufacturer may be very reputable, but the condition of a turbo or super kit depends hugely on the install, the tune, and the driving habits. Unfortunately, there is seldom any good way to verify. Ultimately, it is on you if you buy a turbo kit that craps out after 1000 miles, and you could be out a serious amount of money on top of whatever damage it might do to your engine.

The numbers I mentioned are to the wheels, but like I said, driving habits, methods of forced induction, and age and condition of the components all play a huge role. You shouldn't trust the opinion of strangers on the internet anyways.
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 09:43 AM
  #21  
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From: Houston
Added some stuff about interior mods available, and linked to Stoof's air ride post rather than retyping it.

I'm out of space in that post, any way the Mods can insert another post for me directly underneath the first one for me to continue adding stuff?
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 09:53 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by GoFightNguyen
I'm out of space in that post, any way the Mods can insert another post for me directly underneath the first one for me to continue adding stuff?
Nope, that's not possible. I guess the poor souls who need to know something might actually have to read through this one whole thread to find it. How primitive!
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 09:54 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Black Betty
Nope, that's not possible. I guess the poor souls who need to know something might actually have to read through this one whole thread to find it. How primitive!
That's not the noob way, those poor bastards. May BB have mercy on their souls.
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 10:49 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by GoFightNguyen
I welcome forum input on this, if there's anything you disagree with, I would love to hash it out with you and add to this guide so we can finally have a one-stop shop reference for ignorant new members and just plain stupid old members :]
Great job....personally I think this helps noobs and some season'd lurkers on the site. BTW.....since news just broke that Fast Intentions now have a TT for the "G" (at least the coupe), that may be worth adding under the horsepower section.

Again great job.
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 11:01 AM
  #25  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by yardie_g37_6mt
Great job....personally I think this helps noobs and some season'd lurkers on the site. BTW.....since news just broke that Fast Intentions now have a TT for the "G" (at least the coupe), that may be worth adding under the horsepower section.

Again great job.
Thanks! I added the FI TT kit.
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 01:23 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by GoFightNguyen
Unless you know the guy personally, or it's someone *really* well vetted on the forum, I would avoid buying used forced induction kits. The manufacturer may be very reputable, but the condition of a turbo or super kit depends hugely on the install, the tune, and the driving habits. Unfortunately, there is seldom any good way to verify. Ultimately, it is on you if you buy a turbo kit that craps out after 1000 miles, and you could be out a serious amount of money on top of whatever damage it might do to your engine.

The numbers I mentioned are to the wheels, but like I said, driving habits, methods of forced induction, and age and condition of the components all play a huge role. You shouldn't trust the opinion of strangers on the internet anyways.
Thanks for the info, definitely makes sense. It's hard not to think about buying a used one and saving money haha, but like you said ultimately I'd be better off with a new one, which I'll be going with after some solid studying. I just want some go fast parts now!
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 08:56 PM
  #27  
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Ha cereal 2k we might be a lil advanced for this post lol! it is helpful for those that are clueless!
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 09:26 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Kuntrykutboy
Ha cereal 2k we might be a lil advanced for this post lol! it is helpful for those that are clueless!

You're right, we should move it to the newbie section or something.
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 12:29 PM
  #29  
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From: San Antonio, TX
Excellent post GFN! I think Black Betty got tired of corralling noobs so good on ya! Hope they read and heed, but at the end of the day many opt to blast a post out to the entire forum - "What should I do?" Self-motivated research requires effort, LOL.
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 12:40 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by SlateBlueG
Excellent post GFN! I think Black Betty got tired of corralling noobs so good on ya! Hope they read and heed, but at the end of the day many opt to blast a post out to the entire forum - "What should I do?" Self-motivated research requires effort, LOL.
I've started to simply ignore a lot more threads than I used to. It keeps me sane and lets me use more of my time on the forum to benefit myself by learning from others and helping people out the people who are deserving of help, that actually have an intelligent question or have at least tried to find information first before asking for someone to point them to something that's already posted here as plain as day.
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