I made my G37S Faster than ever
Do you have an external GPS? IIRC it's a lot more accurate if you're using one.
I use a Racepak G2X for datalogging, and have a AMB transponder hardwired for "official" timing as well.
http://www.trackhq.com/forums/f299/t...t-vs-amb-3617/
http://www.trackhq.com/forums/f299/c...cechrono-3575/
I use a Racepak G2X for datalogging, and have a AMB transponder hardwired for "official" timing as well.
http://www.trackhq.com/forums/f299/t...t-vs-amb-3617/
http://www.trackhq.com/forums/f299/c...cechrono-3575/
Mike thank you for the tip.
No just internal phone's GPS. But for next event just in case, I am going to rent transponders. Compare accuracy. For me anything less than +- a second is acceptable. Preferably - than +.
No just internal phone's GPS. But for next event just in case, I am going to rent transponders. Compare accuracy. For me anything less than +- a second is acceptable. Preferably - than +.
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I called Buttonwillow and they say it is their aniversary event. Since 15 years, and they have been doing this event every year. $125 per car and $35 per driver. For both Saturday and Sunday.
Mike have you been to their "Holiday Test Festival"? Is it packed? More info Please? I am seriously considering.........
Last edited by joo030879; Dec 4, 2010 at 12:52 PM.
November 20th and 21st I participated on a track day event at Buttonwillow Raceway Park, Buttonwillow California. With "D" minus 5, I checked the weather and and 70% chance of rain.......
I was not even thinking about but John From JEB Performance Tunning called me. A Nissan/Infiniti Specialist in Hollywood California. And said "Hey how about your intakes, are you getting the hydroshield for your cold air intakes for this weekend?" And it hit me, I removed the cover on my bumper exposing air filters to the environment. John said "I have couple of them here, so pick them up for $18 each". I drove there immediately. And picked them up. John also recommended since engine might take in water if you pass through a pot hole. Splashing lot of water into the intake systems. Gave me for free 2 1/2" clear box tapes. Just in case rain was severe.
On my drive to Buttonwillow Race way, over passing the mountains rains were severe. And As I was descending I noticed roughness on my engine. Than weather cleared, and roughness went away.
Throughout entire first through third session rain was pouring, and midway through the second session the engine started to threaten to shut down. And Rev would not go passed 3200 RPM. I was not sure if engine was going into self-protect mode, or there is actually something wrong with the engine due to the fact even with Hydroshield, my engine was taking in water. Than it hit me I have 2 1/2" clear box tapes from JOHN. I Taped bumper making as water tight as possible. KEPT my engine running for 30 minutes and everything back to normal.
Now my runs thought the day. With no sign of rain going away. My G was going all over the track. With spins here and there, I normally run on dry 2 min 14.6 seconds. I really wanted to brake my personal record. So I made some additional mods on my car. Other than Injen cold air intakes, HKS Power Exhaust, deleted my cats, updated ecu from 08's to 10's from a local dealership, Volk TE, KW V-3 which I run one click minus full hard.
Additional mods I made for the November 20-21, 2010. Where Eibach sway bars both front and rear, and GTSpec Towers, and Nitto NT05's for rears only Which I think made worse for the raining conditions.
Luckily by 3:00pm sun was making its way through, and to my surprise by the end of the day I broke my personal best by almost a second. 2:13.626, I could not believe.
I think due to the fact that I played out on rain all day, made me better driver. And when sun came through my Sways and GTSpecs came back with a vengeance.
I think with perseverance and little help from honest and hard working people around. You can overcome obstacles. I feel great, and thank you JEB Performance Tunning for everything you have done. Your 2 1/2" clear tapes saved my day.
I now appreciate all areas of motorsports. From Nascar to Indy to F1. Those guys are overcoming obstacles on a daily basis. Which I think is one of most understated, but joy of motorsports.
I will post pictures and videos after editing them. And will be sharing more of the Sunday's event when I broke 10 second barrier for the first time. I posted best time lap of 2 minute and 9.78 seconds. COMING SOON.........
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_qWwbWh9Df00/TO...2014.19.48.jpg
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_qWwbWh9Df00/TO...2016.24.48.jpg
Look under position 3. My name is Jong Lee.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_qWwbWh9Df00/TO...2015.53.14.jpg
I was not even thinking about but John From JEB Performance Tunning called me. A Nissan/Infiniti Specialist in Hollywood California. And said "Hey how about your intakes, are you getting the hydroshield for your cold air intakes for this weekend?" And it hit me, I removed the cover on my bumper exposing air filters to the environment. John said "I have couple of them here, so pick them up for $18 each". I drove there immediately. And picked them up. John also recommended since engine might take in water if you pass through a pot hole. Splashing lot of water into the intake systems. Gave me for free 2 1/2" clear box tapes. Just in case rain was severe.
On my drive to Buttonwillow Race way, over passing the mountains rains were severe. And As I was descending I noticed roughness on my engine. Than weather cleared, and roughness went away.
Throughout entire first through third session rain was pouring, and midway through the second session the engine started to threaten to shut down. And Rev would not go passed 3200 RPM. I was not sure if engine was going into self-protect mode, or there is actually something wrong with the engine due to the fact even with Hydroshield, my engine was taking in water. Than it hit me I have 2 1/2" clear box tapes from JOHN. I Taped bumper making as water tight as possible. KEPT my engine running for 30 minutes and everything back to normal.
Now my runs thought the day. With no sign of rain going away. My G was going all over the track. With spins here and there, I normally run on dry 2 min 14.6 seconds. I really wanted to brake my personal record. So I made some additional mods on my car. Other than Injen cold air intakes, HKS Power Exhaust, deleted my cats, updated ecu from 08's to 10's from a local dealership, Volk TE, KW V-3 which I run one click minus full hard.
Additional mods I made for the November 20-21, 2010. Where Eibach sway bars both front and rear, and GTSpec Towers, and Nitto NT05's for rears only Which I think made worse for the raining conditions.
Luckily by 3:00pm sun was making its way through, and to my surprise by the end of the day I broke my personal best by almost a second. 2:13.626, I could not believe.
I think due to the fact that I played out on rain all day, made me better driver. And when sun came through my Sways and GTSpecs came back with a vengeance.
I think with perseverance and little help from honest and hard working people around. You can overcome obstacles. I feel great, and thank you JEB Performance Tunning for everything you have done. Your 2 1/2" clear tapes saved my day.
I now appreciate all areas of motorsports. From Nascar to Indy to F1. Those guys are overcoming obstacles on a daily basis. Which I think is one of most understated, but joy of motorsports.
I will post pictures and videos after editing them. And will be sharing more of the Sunday's event when I broke 10 second barrier for the first time. I posted best time lap of 2 minute and 9.78 seconds. COMING SOON.........
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_qWwbWh9Df00/TO...2014.19.48.jpg
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_qWwbWh9Df00/TO...2016.24.48.jpg
Look under position 3. My name is Jong Lee.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_qWwbWh9Df00/TO...2015.53.14.jpg
brake knockback = brake disk deflection from hard cornering (and pushing the brake pistons in), makes a "click" sound when you initially press the brake, and you don't have full braking power or need to push more. It's compensated for by double pumping the brakes to stop.
Pyrometer = reads (very) high temperatures; you only need pads with a MOT (maximum operating temperature) that is barely above what you hit at the track. Anything more aggressive will either eat rotors or be corrosive, and probably cost more, with no real benefit. Uneven pad wear (tapering) or fading is the easiest way to see if your pads MOT is too low. E.g. my pads are hitting over 1650F (MOT for my pads) (900C). I know because 1. they fade at the track and 2. the pads don't wear evenly, they taper (leading edge wears faster than trailing edge). I'm stepping up to 1950F (1065C) degree pads. A G37's brakes are much larger in relation to the car's weight and load vs a s2k, so I'm expecting much lower temps, probably closer to 1300 (~700C) or so. S2k's have major brake issues
Pyrometer = reads (very) high temperatures; you only need pads with a MOT (maximum operating temperature) that is barely above what you hit at the track. Anything more aggressive will either eat rotors or be corrosive, and probably cost more, with no real benefit. Uneven pad wear (tapering) or fading is the easiest way to see if your pads MOT is too low. E.g. my pads are hitting over 1650F (MOT for my pads) (900C). I know because 1. they fade at the track and 2. the pads don't wear evenly, they taper (leading edge wears faster than trailing edge). I'm stepping up to 1950F (1065C) degree pads. A G37's brakes are much larger in relation to the car's weight and load vs a s2k, so I'm expecting much lower temps, probably closer to 1300 (~700C) or so. S2k's have major brake issues
brake knockback = brake disk deflection from hard cornering (and pushing the brake pistons in), makes a "click" sound when you initially press the brake, and you don't have full braking power or need to push more. It's compensated for by double pumping the brakes to stop.
Pyrometer = reads (very) high temperatures; you only need pads with a MOT (maximum operating temperature) that is barely above what you hit at the track. Anything more aggressive will either eat rotors or be corrosive, and probably cost more, with no real benefit. Uneven pad wear (tapering) or fading is the easiest way to see if your pads MOT is too low. E.g. my pads are hitting over 1650F (MOT for my pads) (900C). I know because 1. they fade at the track and 2. the pads don't wear evenly, they taper (leading edge wears faster than trailing edge). I'm stepping up to 1950F (1065C) degree pads. A G37's brakes are much larger in relation to the car's weight and load vs a s2k, so I'm expecting much lower temps, probably closer to 1300 (~700C) or so. S2k's have major brake issues
Pyrometer = reads (very) high temperatures; you only need pads with a MOT (maximum operating temperature) that is barely above what you hit at the track. Anything more aggressive will either eat rotors or be corrosive, and probably cost more, with no real benefit. Uneven pad wear (tapering) or fading is the easiest way to see if your pads MOT is too low. E.g. my pads are hitting over 1650F (MOT for my pads) (900C). I know because 1. they fade at the track and 2. the pads don't wear evenly, they taper (leading edge wears faster than trailing edge). I'm stepping up to 1950F (1065C) degree pads. A G37's brakes are much larger in relation to the car's weight and load vs a s2k, so I'm expecting much lower temps, probably closer to 1300 (~700C) or so. S2k's have major brake issues
I don't think temperatures were too high because he would experience 0 knockback on a very first corner. Forcing him to withdraw early from the session. Definitely visible signs of uneaven wear on the brake pads. One side of the pads thickness was little more than 1/4 inch. The opposing side is barely worn.
Well temperature, we never measured. But would not be too high. Since he relied more on engine brakes and double pumping to finish his laps.
Jungwoo was almost crying that day. We tried everything. Countless Bleading, trying to gather as much info as possible from other drivers.
We took his car to the garage shop near the entrance, and gentleman who owns the shop immediately pointed on Rotors. They are wrecked, and told us something about Nascar drivers are constantly double pumping. Even joked if JungWoo intends to race on Nascar, driving a wrecked rotor will help him prepare. Plus gave us a mini tour around his garage. He has +20 track ready cars in there. Very impressed. Told us not to track with G's and in return he would offer us his track ready cars for sale.
Prior to the track event, we knew something was wrong. So we changed brake lines, completely flushed out brake oil replacing with Motul. Did everything except changing the rotor.
After the event we changed the rotors, and wala all back to normal. Now he runs with StopTech Drilled/Slotted Rotors, and Hawk racing pads. For about the same mileage and more tracks than previouse OEM Rotors. According to Jungwoo they are better than when he first had his G37S.