Dynod my car and almost got a Uprev tune
10-16-2010, 07:30 PM
#31
Sorry for the late response. Do you guys think they didn't know what they were doing? Is it possible for me to receive 0 gains at all with a tune? Church has a great reputation so I don't know how they could have effed it up that much.
10-17-2010, 12:37 AM
#32
Registered User
Check your AFR at WOT, if it's in the mid 12's then it's possible you were already close to a good tune resulting in low gains. If not then either the map they made isn't being loaded properly or they didn't produce a good map.
10-17-2010, 01:50 AM
#33
A few things.
1. Dynos can be calibrated to read however the operator likes.
2. Different dynos read different. Period. They absolutely cannot be compared, even if the make and model are the same.
3. Correction factor? (see #1)
4. Yes, Dynapacks do not factor in the inertia of the wheels involved, and do not factor in rolling resistance. However, that does not necessarily mean it will read higher (again, read #1).
5. Shawn's dyno generally reads approximately flywheel numbers, if you absolutely MUST have a "basis" for where the figure is coming from. Remember, the dyno is just a tool.
6. Shawn Church knows exactly what he is doing.
7. It DOES NOT MATTER what gear you are in when you dyno. There is STILL drivetrain loss, and the figures STILL need to be corrected for whatever mechanical multiplication is applied. A legitimate reasons include: a) attempting to get a longer pull for more readings, b) the car makes so much power that the pull is too short, or c) the lower gears may be too weak. There are other potential reasons as well. Note that when Shawn (or whoever is there helping him) sets up the dyno, he is also putting in ratios. Incorrect ratios will result in incorrect readings, potentially.
@ Kosstick and Jo Kadosh: Did you guys happen to get your dyno files? I'd like to get them for comparison with other VQs. I'm assuming you were on the big dyno?
1. Dynos can be calibrated to read however the operator likes.
2. Different dynos read different. Period. They absolutely cannot be compared, even if the make and model are the same.
3. Correction factor? (see #1)
4. Yes, Dynapacks do not factor in the inertia of the wheels involved, and do not factor in rolling resistance. However, that does not necessarily mean it will read higher (again, read #1).
5. Shawn's dyno generally reads approximately flywheel numbers, if you absolutely MUST have a "basis" for where the figure is coming from. Remember, the dyno is just a tool.
6. Shawn Church knows exactly what he is doing.
7. It DOES NOT MATTER what gear you are in when you dyno. There is STILL drivetrain loss, and the figures STILL need to be corrected for whatever mechanical multiplication is applied. A legitimate reasons include: a) attempting to get a longer pull for more readings, b) the car makes so much power that the pull is too short, or c) the lower gears may be too weak. There are other potential reasons as well. Note that when Shawn (or whoever is there helping him) sets up the dyno, he is also putting in ratios. Incorrect ratios will result in incorrect readings, potentially.
@ Kosstick and Jo Kadosh: Did you guys happen to get your dyno files? I'd like to get them for comparison with other VQs. I'm assuming you were on the big dyno?
Last edited by Mike; 10-17-2010 at 01:59 AM.
10-17-2010, 04:09 PM
#34
I just came across this thread and it appears to have some pretty interesting information. I have an 08 5a/t and got tuned with uprev about a month ago. This is the first I've heard about the speed limiter and dynoing in 4th.
When my car was dynod it baselined at only 265 on a dynojet. After the tune it didnt make any power up top but had good mid range gains. The tuner said it was because the engine was getting hot in the higher rpms. Could this have actually been caused by the speed limiter issue? He got the a/f to around 12.8-12.9 but after reading on here it seems people are getting better results at 12.4-12.5. Also he said he wasn't able to do anything with ignition timing, yet reading here it seems like other people are getting improvements with the timing. This was his first g37 though so, yet he has tuned 370z before.
Should I go back and re do it in 3rd on the dyno instead, and maybe have him try to do the a/f and ignition timing again?
When my car was dynod it baselined at only 265 on a dynojet. After the tune it didnt make any power up top but had good mid range gains. The tuner said it was because the engine was getting hot in the higher rpms. Could this have actually been caused by the speed limiter issue? He got the a/f to around 12.8-12.9 but after reading on here it seems people are getting better results at 12.4-12.5. Also he said he wasn't able to do anything with ignition timing, yet reading here it seems like other people are getting improvements with the timing. This was his first g37 though so, yet he has tuned 370z before.
Should I go back and re do it in 3rd on the dyno instead, and maybe have him try to do the a/f and ignition timing again?
10-18-2010, 01:17 AM
#35
Ive seen people gain a minimum of 18Whp and up to like 30. I doubt my car was tuned to the level of perfection with the stock ecu.
I think my AFR was around 12.8ish at WOT. But doesn't ignition timing and adjusting cams help?
Shawn said they didn't even start on the cams. Also cam wasn't tuning my car some other guy was. If I do go again I would want shawn to actually tune my car instead of the other guy. The other guy tried to play with the ignition timing as well.
10-18-2010, 01:19 AM
#36
A few things.
1. Dynos can be calibrated to read however the operator likes.
2. Different dynos read different. Period. They absolutely cannot be compared, even if the make and model are the same.
3. Correction factor? (see #1)
4. Yes, Dynapacks do not factor in the inertia of the wheels involved, and do not factor in rolling resistance. However, that does not necessarily mean it will read higher (again, read #1).
5. Shawn's dyno generally reads approximately flywheel numbers, if you absolutely MUST have a "basis" for where the figure is coming from. Remember, the dyno is just a tool.
6. Shawn Church knows exactly what he is doing.
7. It DOES NOT MATTER what gear you are in when you dyno. There is STILL drivetrain loss, and the figures STILL need to be corrected for whatever mechanical multiplication is applied. A legitimate reasons include: a) attempting to get a longer pull for more readings, b) the car makes so much power that the pull is too short, or c) the lower gears may be too weak. There are other potential reasons as well. Note that when Shawn (or whoever is there helping him) sets up the dyno, he is also putting in ratios. Incorrect ratios will result in incorrect readings, potentially.
@ Kosstick and Jo Kadosh: Did you guys happen to get your dyno files? I'd like to get them for comparison with other VQs. I'm assuming you were on the big dyno?
1. Dynos can be calibrated to read however the operator likes.
2. Different dynos read different. Period. They absolutely cannot be compared, even if the make and model are the same.
3. Correction factor? (see #1)
4. Yes, Dynapacks do not factor in the inertia of the wheels involved, and do not factor in rolling resistance. However, that does not necessarily mean it will read higher (again, read #1).
5. Shawn's dyno generally reads approximately flywheel numbers, if you absolutely MUST have a "basis" for where the figure is coming from. Remember, the dyno is just a tool.
6. Shawn Church knows exactly what he is doing.
7. It DOES NOT MATTER what gear you are in when you dyno. There is STILL drivetrain loss, and the figures STILL need to be corrected for whatever mechanical multiplication is applied. A legitimate reasons include: a) attempting to get a longer pull for more readings, b) the car makes so much power that the pull is too short, or c) the lower gears may be too weak. There are other potential reasons as well. Note that when Shawn (or whoever is there helping him) sets up the dyno, he is also putting in ratios. Incorrect ratios will result in incorrect readings, potentially.
@ Kosstick and Jo Kadosh: Did you guys happen to get your dyno files? I'd like to get them for comparison with other VQs. I'm assuming you were on the big dyno?
Doesn't being in 1:1 ratio matter? Also Shawn didn't do the tune himself. You seem to know shawn have you worked with him before. I only got one of my runs print out. That was baseline. I can ask for the data could they email it?
10-18-2010, 02:22 AM
#37
Shawn does have multiple guys working for him, and they ALL know what they are doing. However, I've only had cars tuned by Shawn himself, as I have always asked specifically for him.
E-mail isn't necessarily the best method of contact, but he will eventually get back to you.
The ratio doesn't matter, the drivetrain loss is the same. Even if it's a 1:1 ratio, it's not a direct connection, the power is being transmitted through gears, and there is still a final drive reduction later on in the drivetrain.
E-mail isn't necessarily the best method of contact, but he will eventually get back to you.
The ratio doesn't matter, the drivetrain loss is the same. Even if it's a 1:1 ratio, it's not a direct connection, the power is being transmitted through gears, and there is still a final drive reduction later on in the drivetrain.
10-18-2010, 02:58 AM
#38
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Sorry but the #s they're showing you guys are really blown up pretty good.
U guys really need to get on a mustang dyno. I can bet $ that no stock g37 will pass 265-270whp on a mustang dyno on a cool day.
Mustang dyno is what you really put down on the corrected. (A.k.a. Heart breaker dyno)
I went for an uprev tune on my bolt on 1st gen g35x sedan. Any other dyno I put 260-270whp without tune, and mustang dyno I laid down 233awhp. Sux *** but truth hurts lol.
I'm sure uprev will take care of u guys, but I couldn't get them tune my awd sedan, been good 10months since they downloaded my ecu and. Emailed it to Texas.
U guys really need to get on a mustang dyno. I can bet $ that no stock g37 will pass 265-270whp on a mustang dyno on a cool day.
Mustang dyno is what you really put down on the corrected. (A.k.a. Heart breaker dyno)
I went for an uprev tune on my bolt on 1st gen g35x sedan. Any other dyno I put 260-270whp without tune, and mustang dyno I laid down 233awhp. Sux *** but truth hurts lol.
I'm sure uprev will take care of u guys, but I couldn't get them tune my awd sedan, been good 10months since they downloaded my ecu and. Emailed it to Texas.
10-18-2010, 12:28 PM
#39
Sorry but the #s they're showing you guys are really blown up pretty good.
U guys really need to get on a mustang dyno. I can bet $ that no stock g37 will pass 265-270whp on a mustang dyno on a cool day.
Mustang dyno is what you really put down on the corrected. (A.k.a. Heart breaker dyno)
I went for an uprev tune on my bolt on 1st gen g35x sedan. Any other dyno I put 260-270whp without tune, and mustang dyno I laid down 233awhp. Sux *** but truth hurts lol.
I'm sure uprev will take care of u guys, but I couldn't get them tune my awd sedan, been good 10months since they downloaded my ecu and. Emailed it to Texas.
U guys really need to get on a mustang dyno. I can bet $ that no stock g37 will pass 265-270whp on a mustang dyno on a cool day.
Mustang dyno is what you really put down on the corrected. (A.k.a. Heart breaker dyno)
I went for an uprev tune on my bolt on 1st gen g35x sedan. Any other dyno I put 260-270whp without tune, and mustang dyno I laid down 233awhp. Sux *** but truth hurts lol.
I'm sure uprev will take care of u guys, but I couldn't get them tune my awd sedan, been good 10months since they downloaded my ecu and. Emailed it to Texas.
My car is not stock. Mustang dyno isn't what you really put down because i have seen mustang dynos give some high numbers and seen dynapacks give low numbers as well. So there is no guarantee the mustang dyno I go on will give me the most accurate number.
10-18-2010, 12:30 PM
#40
Sorry but the #s they're showing you guys are really blown up pretty good.
U guys really need to get on a mustang dyno. I can bet $ that no stock g37 will pass 265-270whp on a mustang dyno on a cool day.
Mustang dyno is what you really put down on the corrected. (A.k.a. Heart breaker dyno)
I went for an uprev tune on my bolt on 1st gen g35x sedan. Any other dyno I put 260-270whp without tune, and mustang dyno I laid down 233awhp. Sux *** but truth hurts lol.
I'm sure uprev will take care of u guys, but I couldn't get them tune my awd sedan, been good 10months since they downloaded my ecu and. Emailed it to Texas.
U guys really need to get on a mustang dyno. I can bet $ that no stock g37 will pass 265-270whp on a mustang dyno on a cool day.
Mustang dyno is what you really put down on the corrected. (A.k.a. Heart breaker dyno)
I went for an uprev tune on my bolt on 1st gen g35x sedan. Any other dyno I put 260-270whp without tune, and mustang dyno I laid down 233awhp. Sux *** but truth hurts lol.
I'm sure uprev will take care of u guys, but I couldn't get them tune my awd sedan, been good 10months since they downloaded my ecu and. Emailed it to Texas.
I'm sorta sad that your local tuner has so completely sold you on the "superiority" of the mustang dyno. It's pretty well known that Mustang's can't dyno ultra high hp cars because of wheel slip on the rollers, no matter how tight you strap it down or how much weight you put in the back.
Shawn's dyno will read 1800 hp. His dyno reads that high, because he tunes cars that need that capability. What's your local dyno max out at?
As stated above, dyno's will read whatever the owner/tuner wants them to read.
Last edited by Mike; 10-18-2010 at 12:35 PM.
10-18-2010, 10:18 PM
#43
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It doesn't matter what you put down. The dyno is just a tuning tool. If you gain 10% after the tune, then you gained 10%. Without a baseline, the tool is useless for showing how much you gained; all it will show is a power curve, and allow you to load the car while keeping it stationary.
I'm sorta sad that your local tuner has so completely sold you on the "superiority" of the mustang dyno. It's pretty well known that Mustang's can't dyno ultra high hp cars because of wheel slip on the rollers, no matter how tight you strap it down or how much weight you put in the back.
Shawn's dyno will read 1800 hp. His dyno reads that high, because he tunes cars that need that capability. What's your local dyno max out at?
I'm sorta sad that your local tuner has so completely sold you on the "superiority" of the mustang dyno. It's pretty well known that Mustang's can't dyno ultra high hp cars because of wheel slip on the rollers, no matter how tight you strap it down or how much weight you put in the back.
Shawn's dyno will read 1800 hp. His dyno reads that high, because he tunes cars that need that capability. What's your local dyno max out at?
Ofcourse I know, Dyno numbers are nothing its all about the gains you've made from the tune. But iT's still not right to say, I laid down 330whp on the dyno, and get ur *** handed to u by another G with 280whp at the track/or street. Not the point but w/e.
It's not my local shop I wish It was tho, Im really in need of a tune. I went to performance motorsports, good hour drive from me. Theyre authorized dealer for Uprev/osiris tune. Welcome To The Experience | Performance Motorsport 2010
04-15-2011, 02:04 PM
#44
Wow, Dynopack has to be the most inflated ive ever seen!! Dynojet must be the middle ground with Mustang being pretty close.
With only a FI old style catback mine put down 278 hp/215 tq showing a near perfect curve up to redline. 6MT.
Dyno's should be done at 1:1.
No matter what the dyno. You need a baseline followed by additional runs testing the modifications. These need to be done within the same day to maintain accurate results.
With only a FI old style catback mine put down 278 hp/215 tq showing a near perfect curve up to redline. 6MT.
Dyno's should be done at 1:1.
No matter what the dyno. You need a baseline followed by additional runs testing the modifications. These need to be done within the same day to maintain accurate results.
04-15-2011, 02:28 PM
#45
I don't understand everyone's fascination with 1:1. A gear is a gear. It's a simple ratio. If you want the best sample, you want to use the tallest gear available that won't max out the dyno and won't hit the car's governor. It'll lengthen the pull which will let you get closer data points.