At the end of the day, that's what it's all about. You do this stuff for yourself, regardless of random internet opinions. In this particular context, I certainly understand, because god knows (and so does my wife) that I've spent all kinds of money on nonsense to dress up my engine bay in my previous car and my G. And since I don't have a glass hood, I'm doing it for me.

 

Another negligible power mod would be a lightweight or under-drive crank pulley. When the car is putting out over 300 hp to begin with, using a UDP is more for bragging rights than anything realistic.

At least that my opinion du jour. Anyone is free to explain otherwise.

 

I have no doubt my Short Ram Intake gains a little @ WOT but I'm sure there's a bit of loss in the lower rpm range, but in the end I still have a big grin on my face when I hear it open up. An no one's going to take that away from me (except maybe a cop if I get pulled over for "display of acceleration or some BS)
Glad you guys are enjoying those pipes, and even if they gain nothing they look much nicer in there

 

Got my Z1 tubes installed today, car is stock aside from the tubes. There is a slight increase in growl at low RPM and a definite increase in intake sound at WOT after 4500 RPM. For $70 shipped I couldn't be happier with the increase in sound output. No noticeable power gains but I wasn't expecting any.

 

That's a pretty good price, where did you get Injen's from Blnewt?

 

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I just installed my mishimoto intake silicone tubes and it did not seem to fit right. Did any of you have to trim the tubes? Should I remove the air box completely and try to reinstall it that way? It just did not sit right at the throttle body and the small attachments of the tubes.

 

Since getting my '11 G37x a month ago I have been researching the car for bolt on performance. Seeing the manufacture rated hp at 328 I found that a bit precise so I'm guessing they are squeezing almost ever bit of power they can from the engines in these things but I am always searching for cheap, bolt on hp. One such search lead me looking into cold air intake systems since I see a lot about it on this site.
I found the following review, besides it being entertaining I also found it quite informative, it saved me some money too. Enjoy!!


I am figuring a good tune to also improve performance and maybe improve gas mileage too, I am planning on that as my next and possibly only engine performance modification. I need my car to last a very long time so super chargers and tubo's are not in my future, plus if I'm honest with myself, I will only hurt myself or end up loosing my license as the result of having that much hp. I can settle for winning the occasional red light/lane end race, and even loosing a few too.
A man's got to know his limitations, this is a mid life crisis, not a mid life death wish.

 

I think the factory intake--essentially a cai--is more than sufficient for stock-ish power levels. Each bank of cylinders has it's own intake, drawing air through a seal into the front bumper. It's all polymer, so you don't get the heat sink from aluminum tubing like on the CAIs.

That's not to say aftermarket systems don't add power, or look good, or sound awesome, but at $500+, the price is pretty steep for the gains.

A few discussions from over on the 370 board:

Is it really worth putting a Cold Air Intake on 370z and what HP gains - Page 9 - Nissan 370Z Forum

Cold Air Intake HP Debate - Is it worth it ? - Nissan 370Z Forum

A few people have dynoed drop-ins and post MAF tubes and made decent gains, at least in line with warm air systems like the R2C, Takeda, etc.

While Cobb no longer supports these cars, they did, and cancelled development of their intake due to lack of gains. The blog is long gone, but I found it using the way back machine...interesting read:

https://web.archive.org/web/20090228...ing.com/?p=160

And relative to SRI (or warm air systems) here is a comparison of the G3 and the R2C:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/intake-...mparisons.html

The G3 made a whopping 22 HP more than the R2C. Yeah, the R2C is better under the curve, but you're paying a lot for a little under the curve power. I'm skeptical that WAI do anything, as Stillen claims a 20HP gain over stock with their CAI. If it picks up that much compared to the R2C, that would imply that the R2C is roughly the equivalent to stock. The fact that R2C put all the R&D into an intake, and didn't dyno the gains leads me to believe there aren't much--aside from intake noise. Which is cool

I don't mind leaving a handful of HP on the table if it saves me $300+. Chances you notice the difference is pretty slim. Get some good drop ins (I use aFe) + some post MAF tubes + remove your hood liner for some extra noise = $300+ saved and some bonus HP

 

Very solid post Lego, amen. I too am running AFE dry flow's + Z1 maf tubes + no hood liner :-) I haven't seen that dyno chart before, but those are some pretty solid gains. I've also read on the 370z forums a lot of folks rave about a simple drop-in and tube combo with good reliable results.

 

Thanks. Those gains seem to be inline with what others on the 370 board are getting, which is easily on par with SRI/WAI intakes.

Even the Stillen isn't that impressive considering the price:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/intake-...view-dyno.html

^^I think that might be the dyno Stillen references on their website

The power result: A dyno-proven 20 horsepower gain at the wheels on the Dual Throttle Body 350Z, 18.5 horsepower gain at the wheels on the G37 Coupe and 17.5 horsepower on the 370Z. This translates to an estimated 20-22 horsepower gain at the flywheel! For G37/G35 Sedan owners, gains are 14 horsepower at the wheels.The Takeda, Injen, JWT etc. all seem to dyno between 0-16 HP on average.

I'm not sure why so many people dismiss the drop-in + post MAF combo It's a great bang-for-the-buck mod,

 

Very very good read! Thinking of getting those drop in from afe. Any idea on my question above about installation issues? I had a hard time putting them in and they are not sitting on properly to the throttle body and the side connection.

 

I removed the screws in the front corner that secured the factory air boxes to the chassis to give me the wiggle room I needed to get them to fit right. They are phillips screws, but hex-head, I think 13mm.

You might need to trim them, but I didn't (Cobb tubes).

 

Lego , really good read and being new to the forum will help me decide on my first purchase.

 

I also have the HPS tubes and AFE filter, and Im very happy with that set up!

 

I have Z1 tunes and KN's Will be dynoing as soon as I finish my etune