Berk HFC install by dealer problems
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Berk HFC install by dealer problems
Tried to get the Berk HFC's installed today at Scottsdale Infiniti. Two hours into job, recieved a phone call saying they broke both bolts (the same ones all the threads complain about), AND they could not back out the O2 sensors from the OEM cats more than 1-2turns, and that I would have to order two new O2 sensors to the tune of 450 bucks. I am smelling BS. Anyone have any experience with these two problems?
#3
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I hate all these damn sensors, this is why I am worried about mods, every damn thing has a freaking sensor, and this siht can add up to become costly when the dealer not only charges you for stuff like this but any work to fix things that OBV. won't be covered by our warranties because a damn sensor was tampered with due to aftermarket parts being installed. You gotta worry about it with intake and exhaust mods for sure and these are the 2 most common mods. No damn sensors FTW!!!!
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HFC's
Tried to get the Berk HFC's installed today at Scottsdale Infiniti. Two hours into job, recieved a phone call saying they broke both bolts (the same ones all the threads complain about), AND they could not back out the O2 sensors from the OEM cats more than 1-2turns, and that I would have to order two new O2 sensors to the tune of 450 bucks. I am smelling BS. Anyone have any experience with these two problems?
& bitch his ear off.
I had mine done & they had A problem with the sensor, but they figured it out.
not to mention they wre able to file down the f/u edge of sensor.
So I didn't need a new one.
My cats were FI though( not sure if that matters)
#7
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Thanks all. Update; dealer wants me to now pay "discounted" rete of 126 per new sensor. Claim old sensors would only back out of OEM cats 1-2 turns then froze. Claim this is due to different metals and different expansion due to extreme heat cats absorb. Either way, I suspect they damaged them/stripped them during removal of the OEM cats (they did break both bolts) or the removal attempt of the sensors themselves. Told them to put it back to stock and forget about it, then they started lowering price on new sensors, and claiming I would have 4 exhaust leak issues that way. 2 via the broken bolts, and 2 via the loosened/stripped sensors. They are now installing the Berks with the new sensors, I haven't decided how much to argue with them..........
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#8
It is common for sensors to strip out while removing. My frontier has 1k miles and it came out stripped. Did a ram truck with 2k miles it came out stripped. Now put wd40 on them prior to removal. One of the worst are the vipers.
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ummmm, they broke the part, why are they asking you to pay for the damages? I bought my car from them. They are pretty good about stuff like that, kinda obvious since they are helping you install HFC's. I would definitely talk to the service manager, I can't remember his name off the top of my head....... I just don't understand how they want to charge you for something they broke?
#10
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The two outward upper bolts breaking is a common thing. The O2 sensors will come out, here is the trick.
Turn the sensors a couple of threads, then spray WD 40 on the threads and let it soak for 5 or ten minutes. Then with a 7/8" open end wrench work the O2 sensors back and forth. You will have to do this the entire way out. They will come out with minimal damage to the threads. Then take a thread chaser: 18X1.50 and clean the threads up. DO NOT touch the probe on the O2 sensors with your fingers. Spray the O2 sensor probe very well with brake cleaner. Then from 6-12 inches away blow them dry with compressed air. REMEMBER when you put them in the new component, USE ANTI SEIZE!!!
Since I have dealt with so many of these cars and I see the same reoccurring problem, I have to assume that the manufacture never used anti seize in the build process. When they assemble cars at the factory they never keep in consideration the aftermarket parts industry...
Tony
Turn the sensors a couple of threads, then spray WD 40 on the threads and let it soak for 5 or ten minutes. Then with a 7/8" open end wrench work the O2 sensors back and forth. You will have to do this the entire way out. They will come out with minimal damage to the threads. Then take a thread chaser: 18X1.50 and clean the threads up. DO NOT touch the probe on the O2 sensors with your fingers. Spray the O2 sensor probe very well with brake cleaner. Then from 6-12 inches away blow them dry with compressed air. REMEMBER when you put them in the new component, USE ANTI SEIZE!!!
Since I have dealt with so many of these cars and I see the same reoccurring problem, I have to assume that the manufacture never used anti seize in the build process. When they assemble cars at the factory they never keep in consideration the aftermarket parts industry...
Tony
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Yeah somethings fishy with the newer G and the pass. side O2 sensor. Both the ones I've done lately have been cross threaded. But only the passenger. drivers comes right out. Dealer should definitely cover it. Not your fault.
#12
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The two outward upper bolts breaking is a common thing. The O2 sensors will come out, here is the trick.
Turn the sensors a couple of threads, then spray WD 40 on the threads and let it soak for 5 or ten minutes. Then with a 7/8" open end wrench work the O2 sensors back and forth. You will have to do this the entire way out. They will come out with minimal damage to the threads. Then take a thread chaser: 18X1.50 and clean the threads up. DO NOT touch the probe on the O2 sensors with your fingers. Spray the O2 sensor probe very well with brake cleaner. Then from 6-12 inches away blow them dry with compressed air. REMEMBER when you put them in the new component, USE ANTI SEIZE!!!
Since I have dealt with so many of these cars and I see the same reoccurring problem, I have to assume that the manufacture never used anti seize in the build process. When they assemble cars at the factory they never keep in consideration the aftermarket parts industry...
Tony
Turn the sensors a couple of threads, then spray WD 40 on the threads and let it soak for 5 or ten minutes. Then with a 7/8" open end wrench work the O2 sensors back and forth. You will have to do this the entire way out. They will come out with minimal damage to the threads. Then take a thread chaser: 18X1.50 and clean the threads up. DO NOT touch the probe on the O2 sensors with your fingers. Spray the O2 sensor probe very well with brake cleaner. Then from 6-12 inches away blow them dry with compressed air. REMEMBER when you put them in the new component, USE ANTI SEIZE!!!
Since I have dealt with so many of these cars and I see the same reoccurring problem, I have to assume that the manufacture never used anti seize in the build process. When they assemble cars at the factory they never keep in consideration the aftermarket parts industry...
Tony
#13
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My problem was a bit different. My install went fine but I started getting a SES light shorly after install. The code it was throwing was for the sensor in the header, not the cat. It was damaged, just reading funny. I never really figured out what the cause was, but after installing my Stillen headers and resetting the ECU everythings fine. I really hope you don't pay the dealership for screwing up your car. Install on HFC's should only be about 240 bucks to begin with. I'm in Peoria AZ and there are tons of shops that do good work for very fair prices. I wouldn't recommend anyone getting aftermarket parts installed at the Dealership. Stealerships FTL!!!!
#14
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I wonder if it would help to heat up the area around the sensor (not the sensor itself) with a propane torch allong with the WD-40. There are some other penetrating oils out there that work better than WD-40. One is called PB-blaster. Might work better on the bolts also
#15
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If you buy headers from one company and HFC's from another company and then an exaust from like Fast Intentions. Whats the chance they all line up together. Or is it not hard to do when you loosen everything up during your installs