Hello everyone,

I recently started to get some problems with my car, here are the symptoms:

• My car completely lost electrical power and stalled at a red light last week and was unable to restart it. I let it sit and I was able to start the car 1 hour after the incident.
• For the past weeks I get a battery and hand brake light for the first few minutes when I start the car, which signifies "Charge system failure".
• I mostly drive short distances to and from work (4 min drive)

I figured it's probably a bad alternator or worn serpentine belt (I think it was never replaced at 130k km).

I decided to go to the dealer to get that checked and at the same time to get other service done (spark plugs, injectors cleaning, oil change).

After explaining my problem, The service manager told me that they will have to spend from 0.5hrs to 1.5hours to diagnose the problem at 140$/hr.
I said that 1.5hrs seems a lot for checking if alternator or serpentine belt is bad, especially since he told me that they include a complimentary multi point inspection.

He argued that it has nothing to do with the multi point inspection, as the multi point inspection is simply a a quick visual look at the vehicle and it could be a complex electrical problem so they will not do that for free (and they will not credit the diagnostic if we have to do a repair).

I needed my car fixed quickly, so I said, ok go for it.

He called me the next day at closing time (he previously promised me the car would be ready by the end of that day) to send me a result of the diagnostic.

He told me that the problem is the battery, and the alternator and serpentine belt are probably fine.

Correct me if I am wrong, but from my understanding a battery is considered to be 100% charged at ~12.6v, and if the battery is at 12.17v it simply means that it's at 50% charge, which would naturally deliver half the rated CCA...

I didn't approve the battery replacement yet, as I am very skeptical that the problem is the battery.

Are they trying to screw me?

 

No! Your understanding is incorrect.
Go spend $10.00 and obtain a battery hydrometer and check the battery cells yourself. Most likely you have a weak cell not accepting a full charge?


Replace the battery

 

The sole purpose of the battery is to provide electricity to start the car. Once the car starts the alternator supplies the power needed to run- which surprises me that your car stalled out (did the car die by itself or did you stall it out (AT/MT))?

I would have the battery independently tested. You can use a hydrometer- as Telcoman advised- and go from there. If in doubt, replace the battery. I would also consider having the alternator independently tested if the "idiot lights" continue. Would not hurt to check all of your wiring connections as well...

Another issue you have is your short commute time. Some of these cars develop similar issues when the car is driven for very short intervals as the alternator does not have sufficient time to charge the battery. You either have to drive the car more- longer- or invest in a battery maintainer.

 

That's my thoughts aswell.
The car is AT.
When the incident happened, the car was driving normally (the charge system failure indicator were on), but at the redlight, once the light turned green I first lost throttle and pressing on gas would give me the speed of 2km/h. I coasted the car to the side of the road and then the dashboard start flickering and then lost all electric power. Tried starting the car many times, didn't work, waited 1 hour, it started fine.

 

If the idiot light is on then the alternator is not "putting out." (no pun)

Based on that info:
1) get battery tested/replaced;
2) check all connections/wires from alternator to battery;
In my case, the negative battery cable clamp was stretched to the point that it would work loose and pop off of the battery terminal.
3) if idiot light pops on again, further testing/diagnosing likely will be needed.

Do you have a digital multimeter? If so you can test the output voltage (should read ≈14V).

For future reference: anytime the battery/charging idiot light turns on, TURN OFF all unnecessary accessories (radio, AC, any gizmos plugged in, etc.). Doing so will reduce the electric load on the battery and give you time to find a safe place to park.

 

Thanks for the info, I will do that.
The dealer still has my vehicle they want me to approve the battery change. When I asked if they tested alternator and if they looked at the belt he said yes, but I don't have it anywhere in writing.

 

The tool used to diag the alternator should be able to produce a report. Ask for it?

 

Update: Replaced the battery by the dealer, as they recommended (140$ diag + 275$). Alternator and belt are ok based on their tests.

Been driving the car for a few days now, and the idiot lights reappeared this evening, after the car was sitting outside not driving for 24 hours.
So I am pretty sure the problem was not the battery.

I took a multimeter and did a parasitic drain test with the negative removed from the battery.
found that something pulls 0.6A every 3 seconds and goes to 0.
Looking in the car I found that every 3 seconds the orange light on the shifter turns on (when the car is off, locked and keys are far away from the car, and I am not in the car), see photo. Is that normal?

 

P.S. Looking behind the glovebox I found an iDataLink device, which I suppose is a remote starter module. When I bought the car a year ago, it came with a remote starter key dongle that I never got to work, so that module probably needs reconfiguration.

I disconnected it to see if it changes anything.