I would normally have my dome light switch in the center position, which is "dome lights go on when door is open." But I noticed the other day after getting in and starting the car that the dome lights stayed on for their usual 15 seconds and then turned off but instead of being completely off all the interior lights are flickering at a dim level. All the lights flicker together at the same rate - the front dome lights and rear passenger lights are all dimly flashing randomly but all lights at the same time. So now I just have the interior lights set to "off" because they would continue to flicker when the car was turned off and I don't want to drain my battery (It's 6° F right now here in Chicago.... not a good time for any kind of battery drain.)

What could cause this? Is there a relay for the dome lights?

 

Do you have LEDs for the dome lights? Mine do it (Diode Dynamics) and I just leave them in the off position.

 

Does the flickering stop when the interior heats up during your drive? I'm thinking the switch poles are so close together that contraction from cold could be causing intermittent contact. Had that happen with a brake switch after I adjusted the brake pedal height for better heel/toe.

 

They are LEDs. I've heard that they do this. It kind of makes sense to me; the circuit in the car's system that is turning the dome lights on when you open the door, then delays turn off for 15 seconds, is probably not a relay but some kind of semiconductor- a transistor that is turned on or off by the control system. There might be enough stray current trickling out of this "solid state relay" in the "OFF" state to cause the LEDs to illuminate a little. You'd never see anything if you had incandescent bulbs- the stray current is not enough to light them - but LEDs require FAR less power to emit light than a regular bulb.

I just noticed this, though it could have been going on for a while.

It is cold here in Chicago now - was minus 5° F last night. I think the cabin got up to about 65° F the other day when I was driving and first saw this. So, yeah, it seems to happen even when the cabin is reasonably warm.

 

The lights stopped doing this the other day when it was like 45° F outside when I checked. Then today, at 22° I checked and they are doing it again. Some kind of cold-weather effect...?

My car is trying to drain it's battery just when it's needed most.... hhahahaha

 

Any confirmation on this one? Got my first G and swapped to LED's inside and exact issue. I suspect its as mentioned because LED's requires so much less they will flicker over incandescent. If this is the case and they are both EQUALLY drawing only you can see it in LED's. That would be great confirmation.. seems possible. However, its a bit odd there would be any current there in the IF door open mode but door is closed = off, vs simply off mode.. Seems like they would flicker in both settings in that case... But if so and they draw equally by design, i'd move on.

Another thing I am thinking is I know some devices draw differently, and has nothing to do with the power output.. does the LED's "draw" by design somehow vs incandecent? If so then I would I leave it in off position.. or go back to incandescent.

Lastly I know that some of these LED bulbs can be put in any direction, and some need to run one way.. possibly one version does this and the other doesnt if put in a specific flow direction...

Thanks!

 

If yours are flickering then you have some cheap ones. Go on Amazon and look for the 5 star rated ones.

 

My understanding is that since the circuit is built to fade out the incandescent bulbs when you close the door, it's not a relay or switch which would take power to 0. Incandescent bulbs act like resistors and in this circuit the "dimmer" simply leaves a small trickle of power. Not be enough to light (or even heat) incandescent bulbs but apparently it's enough to partially illuminate LEDs. This power "leak" is very small and shouldn't be a battery killer. It would be interesting if somebody tested the current draw and see what difference it makes if you switch the dome lights to off. Should hardly be detectable.

 

I got these for the record, they are cheap but 5 star 50k reviews.. I'll experiment around, I was thinking put all the old ones back in and experiment with just one slot..

 

Yeah those are the old style.

 

*****SOLUTION*****
I actually had an idea and it worked! If its a resistance needed just one normal bulb inline with this might offset this ordeal and it did.. Basically you can use those 8/10 pack amazon ones just fine and then you need one incandesce or properly resisted bulb anywhere and it solves this. Easy band aid anyway... I went with the door lights. I'll try those more expensive Phillip LEDs that are like $13 for a 2 pack, otherwise just the brightest 2 pack I can find incandescent. Problem solved without anything wired/resistors/expensive bulbs...