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Drivers side heat/vent seat not working properly

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Old 11-30-2019, 09:45 AM
  #31  
Angelo Messina
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Originally Posted by Nathan Mekler
Unfortunately I think pulling the seat is your best bet, that's what I'm going to be doing today myself. I would bet the motor is bad, causing the increased current draw. I'm also curious if this is only caused on the heated seat setting because power is being drawn for the fan motor and the heating element, or if it happens while on the AC setting as well.
I'll probably just remove the bolts and dip the seat backwards to get some extra room to work. Otherwise disconnecting the air bag system connectors related to the seat will induce other issues.
which motor do u refer to? The blower? If so I think I can get access to it with the seat in place. How would u know if the motor has gone bad?
Old 12-01-2019, 08:41 AM
  #32  
Nathan Mekler
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Originally Posted by Angelo Messina
I'll probably just remove the bolts and dip the seat backwards to get some extra room to work. Otherwise disconnecting the air bag system connectors related to the seat will induce other issues.
which motor do u refer to? The blower? If so I think I can get access to it with the seat in place. How would u know if the motor has gone bad?
The blower motor under the seat for the climate control seat, and mine is making noise like the bearings are toast, that would be a dead give away.
Old 02-04-2020, 01:47 PM
  #33  
privateidaheaux
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Same issues on my 2009 convertible. Using heat or cool, the light comes on momentarily before going dark. I suspect it's the same issue others have had. Has anyone tried replacing the blower motor? Difficult? Expensive? I'd like to replace the motor and rewire all in one project if possible.
Old 02-04-2020, 02:02 PM
  #34  
Angelo Messina
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Originally Posted by Nathan Mekler
The blower motor under the seat for the climate control seat, and mine is making noise like the bearings are toast, that would be a dead give away.
I have tested my blower unit by comparing the noise it makes with the passenger seat and all seems normal between the two. Has anyone had any luck in finding the issue? I have since made a new ground wire connection to connect to the control unit and put dielectric grease on all the pins and make sure as often as possible to shut off the heated seat before shutting down the ignition so that there is no power to the unit when the car is started again I figure maybe the current draw is excessive during startup. So far I don't see any burnt wires anywhere. If adding a ground solved my problem then I will have to find out where the original ground is hidding so I can re route a whole new ground wire.

has anyone else find a possible fix for this issue?

thanks!
Old 02-20-2021, 12:05 PM
  #35  
Angelo Messina
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Hi guys,
really hate bringing up an old thread but have any of you found a permanent solution to the problem? Last winter I I re-pinned all 6 wires with a new plug from mouser, I put an abundance of dielectric grease and I even added a inline fuse to the the power wire. It worked for about a year only to have it crap out on me again a few weeks ago. Has any one found anything? Any info would be appreciated
Thanks in advance.
Old 03-01-2021, 03:53 PM
  #36  
nrgm37
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Originally Posted by Angelo Messina
Hi guys,
really hate bringing up an old thread but have any of you found a permanent solution to the problem? Last winter I I re-pinned all 6 wires with a new plug from mouser, I put an abundance of dielectric grease and I even added a inline fuse to the the power wire. It worked for about a year only to have it crap out on me again a few weeks ago. Has any one found anything? Any info would be appreciated
Thanks in advance.
I'm going to attempt this repair myself pretty soon on my M37. There's obviously a bad design issue with these connectors melting. What we COULD do, is put a lower current fuse on the circuit that controls the seats and hope that fuse burns out first, before our wiring melts away.
Old 03-01-2021, 08:13 PM
  #37  
Angelo Messina
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Originally Posted by nrgm37
I'm going to attempt this repair myself pretty soon on my M37. There's obviously a bad design issue with these connectors melting. What we COULD do, is put a lower current fuse on the circuit that controls the seats and hope that fuse burns out first, before our wiring melts away.
Thats exactly what I did. I installed an in line fuse to the power wire. If I'm not mistaken the original fuse is a 15A. I initially installed a 7.5A and as soon as I put on the seat warmers the fuse blew,so I installed a 10A it lasted a year. Although I haven't checked under my seat yet I'm expecting to see either the wire burner or the fuse blown however the indicator light only flashes now but doesnt actually heat up the seat. Keep u guys posted on my findings later this week.
Old 03-01-2021, 08:18 PM
  #38  
nrgm37
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When I do mine, I'll take a current measurement with the heat and fans at full blast. That should give us an idea of the current requirement of this system..
Old 04-04-2021, 02:37 PM
  #39  
Crunk
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Originally Posted by nrgm37
When I do mine, I'll take a current measurement with the heat and fans at full blast. That should give us an idea of the current requirement of this system..
Did this work?
Old 04-04-2021, 02:56 PM
  #40  
nrgm37
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I haven't done that yet. Maybe tonight..
Heh
Old 06-14-2021, 06:20 PM
  #41  
Crunk
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It seems like no one has a permanent solution here. Maybe the wiring is undersized all the way back to battery, maybe the fans draw crazy current due to bad bearings. It's all very unclear.
Old 06-07-2022, 11:19 PM
  #42  
MyG3.7
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Originally Posted by kimmspeed
Thanks. I'll have a read and see if it can be diagnosed with the manual. Seems it is likely an electrical issue as it cuts out on the vented side in the same amount of time. Shouldn't be a time out on the cooling system like there is on the heat.

There's both vent and heat in my vert.








Where I can find driver switch
dealer sell it for 258$$
Old 03-27-2023, 04:04 PM
  #43  
acoulson
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Anyone figure out a permanent fix for this issue? I have a M37 and I have replaced the control box multiple times. Has anyone replaced the blower motor with success?
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