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oil mixing question

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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 10:41 PM
  #61  
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37Gs
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several things come to mind. there are just some factory parts the aftermarket cannot touch or do as well, period. however, if the facts are given by ind. lab test/even better real-world testing becouse on paper almost never is the same as in real use... I'd go with the lab. if the lab is a fourth-cousin-removed-sister-company to the product... then no. this is exactly what nissan wants... debates, no clear answer... can you imagine if all motor mfg's start this " our oil in our motors or you get noise/ problems" market? black gold I tell ya, oil that is. when you think of it that way... it sounds dumb. yet one would also think nissan just might know something... about a nissan motor!

the most likely is this new motor had some issues that were too $$$ to fix after made / or a recall and the oil solved the issue until retooling was done and a change was made durring the production run... someone inside forgot the record the lack of need after the fix now they are just ridding the extra capital the oil brings post production run. being a plant manager, that's what I would have done... but that is just MY thought.
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 09:00 AM
  #62  
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KLB
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From: Chicagoland
Originally Posted by 37Gs
Now wtf oil am I supposed to use ?

Lets also talk about oil gaskets and varnish. It's not just about metal to metal or noise. Anyone know how this ester oil "conditions" gaskets v. other brands or swells them over time? Ability to not form a varnish? At what temp does it burn off v. others? Anti-foam? Let's not forget taste - kidding, don't taste.

Now tell me what oil to use damn it or I am going to keep posting crap, whine and smiley faces. I'll do it .
If only there were a good answer to that question. Ignoring the smug obnoxious replies of some here, there is no right answer only opinions.

Personally I had bad results with Mobil1 and good results with Pennzoil Ultra. I have no intention of buying Nissan's oil. MY manual has no line recommending it, and I will not pay that much money for an oil that I would have to change every month and a half.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 02:34 AM
  #63  
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novaleadfoot
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From: Fairfax, VA
Originally Posted by 37Gs
I missed it, what is GC?

I also intend to take my car in (2010 37x) with 1,632 miles on it. I have
(I think I have the ticking noise) since about 19 miles on it. I thought it was normal for this engine, I noticed it filling an RX at a local drug store and the sound was bouncing off the brick wall at the drive through.
-Coincidence?
-Does it have Ester in it from the factory?
-Is this the same noise everone talks about in terms of oil?
-Does oil actually have anything to do with the noise history on this engine...or was it just timming and assumed when a tech changed the oil the noise went away and now it is the "law" in trems of oil in this engine?

I changed the oil with the Nissan 5w30 ester and Nissan oil filter yesreday, still have the noise.

I have no idea just out loud questions I guess..

But what the... is GC? Redline and 300V I know of.
GC is German Castrol Syntec 0w30...think it says European Formula on the bottle...it's different than the standard Castrol Syntec...you can get it at Autozone...it does well in high performance engines
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 01:39 PM
  #64  
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BradManUWF
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Looks like MSCA is a know-it-all that's been drinking the Nissan Ester Kool-aid...

I used Castrol Syntec for the first 2 oil changes and been using Penz Plat since then, and I've never had the ticking problem. My car also didn't need the ECU reflash for the ticking valve TSB. Might be a connection, might not. My Penz Plat UOAs have been better than G37 averages every time, so I'll stick with what's working better than the average(and Nissan Ester oil). "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"

Last edited by BradManUWF; Oct 19, 2010 at 01:44 PM.
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 07:41 PM
  #65  
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philter25
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From: Maryland
Originally Posted by MSCA
Edit: I just made it real easy to not read your posts....I just put you on my ignore list. Congrats! You're the only one on my list!
I never once cursed, insulted you, or made any personal attacks. I disagreed with the bad advice you are giving people and even used the owners manual to defend my position of why you are wrong.

This forum is for enthusiasts and for people to help out people. I am trying to help out people and using actual data and references from the owners manual to defend my position.

I made a very valid point against your argument and instead of attempting to respond, you just ran in the corner and hid. I feel sorry for you if thats what it takes for you to "ignore" someones posts. If you cant handle being wrong or people disagreeing with you, then maybe you should ignore these discussions. If you keep up that behavior, your ignore list is going to fill up pretty fast.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 12:22 PM
  #66  
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Steveo47
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
if you ask me, never use something the dealer reccomends, especially if your paying them
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