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Mobil 1 UOA

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Old 01-12-2010, 06:42 AM
  #16  
jmark
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I will probably stick with Castrol GTX then go to Castrol Syntec once the car is broken in.
Old 01-12-2010, 08:45 AM
  #17  
Mike
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Originally Posted by TreSe7en
So after this all being said, would Mobil 1 still be the best alternative compared to the others (penzoil, royal purple, castrol) at the local automotive shop (autozone,advanced auto parts, etc)?
You can do a lot better than Mobil 1 for the money. If you're on the extreme end like me, then you'll put in a Group V based engine oil that costs about $15/qt. Otherwise, read through the "big" oil thread and draw your own conclusions.

I've yet to see a VQ fail from using a lesser oil, as long as the oil is changed regularly and on time. I can't say the same for other engines.
Old 01-12-2010, 11:29 AM
  #18  
JonfromCB
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TreSe7en, To answer your question.....No

I agree with Mike, Mobil 1 is good oil...just not a good application
in the VQs...even though many use it...including some dealerships.

I have not seen one UOA from a VQ37 using the Nissan Ester
yet and would really like too....That's what I'm using, but only because Nissan
gave me a service package that includes it. Otherwise, I would/will be using
Redline. There is a GREAT UOA from a VQ37 on "Bitog" using German Castrol
and they guy says he drives fairly hard. I've said it before and I'll keep saying
it...I want to see what's going on under the valve covers of some of these
motors after 40K....The VVEL is pretty hard on oil (heat) and I'm betting we
see some pretty serious oil cooking to parts in the valve train by folks who are
convinced they are using "good" oil.

Nissan started recommending their Ester Oil, and using it as factory fill
mid model year 08. A little reasearch will reveal a laundry list of clues
and reasons they did this. Ester seeks heat and sticks to the metal
by molecular attraction (polarity), vs non-ester sticking because
of viscosity. Because ester "seeks" the metal, instead of
just flowing over it like non esters (both conventional and
synthetics) varnish and sludge won't build-up on parts, thus
providing better oil coverage, better cooling of parts, much
cleaner parts, and superior lubrication.

You can't go wrong with ester in the VQ engines.

Last edited by JonfromCB; 01-12-2010 at 11:52 AM.
Old 01-26-2010, 09:17 AM
  #19  
jmark
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Thanks Jon. While I'll stick with my Castrol Syntec in my 350Z HR and Civic Si I'll probably go with Redline 5W-30 in my G37 unless my dealer uses the Nissan Ester based oil. Anyone know who makes the oil for Nissan?
Old 01-26-2010, 10:31 AM
  #20  
juicybusa
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Originally Posted by JonfromCB
TreSe7en, To answer your question.....No

I agree with Mike, Mobil 1 is good oil...just not a good application
in the VQs...even though many use it...including some dealerships.

I have not seen one UOA from a VQ37 using the Nissan Ester
yet and would really like too....That's what I'm using, but only because Nissan
gave me a service package that includes it. Otherwise, I would/will be using
Redline. There is a GREAT UOA from a VQ37 on "Bitog" using German Castrol
and they guy says he drives fairly hard. I've said it before and I'll keep saying
it...I want to see what's going on under the valve covers of some of these
motors after 40K....The VVEL is pretty hard on oil (heat) and I'm betting we
see some pretty serious oil cooking to parts in the valve train by folks who are
convinced they are using "good" oil.

Nissan started recommending their Ester Oil, and using it as factory fill
mid model year 08. A little reasearch will reveal a laundry list of clues
and reasons they did this. Ester seeks heat and sticks to the metal
by molecular attraction (polarity), vs non-ester sticking because
of viscosity. Because ester "seeks" the metal, instead of
just flowing over it like non esters (both conventional and
synthetics) varnish and sludge won't build-up on parts, thus
providing better oil coverage, better cooling of parts, much
cleaner parts, and superior lubrication.

You can't go wrong with ester in the VQ engines.

Jon, here is a uoa with nissan ester and oem filter-not a very encouraging report considering all the hoopla surrounding Nissans ester oil.


Join Date: Jan 2009
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Engine Oil Analysis @14000mi - Nissan Ester Oil, OEM Filter
Analysis is showing a whole lot of wear or maybe its taking long to break in. I'm glad I got baseline measurements from when I first purchased the car.

After the 2500mi flush they're recommending, I'll stick with the Nissan Ester Oil one more time to see if it shows improvement.

For comparison purposes, I'll probably switch to a different oil (Mobil 1 EP or Amsoil) after that.
Attached Thumbnails
Old 01-26-2010, 09:19 PM
  #21  
JonfromCB
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Originally Posted by juicybusa
Jon, here is a uoa with nissan ester and oem filter-not a very encouraging report considering all the hoopla surrounding Nissans ester oil.


Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SoCal
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Engine Oil Analysis @14000mi - Nissan Ester Oil, OEM Filter
Analysis is showing a whole lot of wear or maybe its taking long to break in. I'm glad I got baseline measurements from when I first purchased the car.

After the 2500mi flush they're recommending, I'll stick with the Nissan Ester Oil one more time to see if it shows improvement.

For comparison purposes, I'll probably switch to a different oil (Mobil 1 EP or Amsoil) after that.
Attached Thumbnails

Thanks Juicy', Unfortunately I can't open the attachments
I'd really like to see those numbers.
Old 01-26-2010, 09:37 PM
  #22  
juicybusa
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Wonder why?-opens just fine for me-pm me your email if you like and I'll email it to you.
Old 01-26-2010, 11:20 PM
  #23  
kRAM
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It says you have to log into the 370z forums for me...
Old 01-27-2010, 12:43 AM
  #24  
Mike
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Yup, I can't see it either. Can you copy it?
Old 01-27-2010, 03:10 AM
  #25  
sbmwg37s
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I don't see any attachment.
Old 01-27-2010, 06:17 AM
  #26  
jmark
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Since my dealer doesn't use the ester based oil I may go with Redline 5W-30. It is ester based. Motul is another choice. I know in the HR motors neither did very well.
Old 01-27-2010, 10:05 AM
  #27  
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Not sure if this will work- I'll try to attach.

Engine Oil Analysis @14000mi - Nissan Ester Oil, OEM Filter
Analysis is showing a whole lot of wear or maybe its taking long to break in. I'm glad I got baseline measurements from when I first purchased the car.

After the 2500mi flush they're recommending, I'll stick with the Nissan Ester Oil one more time to see if it shows improvement.

For comparison purposes, I'll probably switch to a different oil (Mobil 1 EP or Amsoil) after that.
Attached Thumbnails Mobil 1 UOA-capture.jpg  

Last edited by juicybusa; 01-27-2010 at 10:12 AM.
Old 01-27-2010, 12:08 PM
  #28  
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^ Wonder if a better ie. K & N or Mobil 1 oil filter would help?
Old 01-27-2010, 01:15 PM
  #29  
Mike
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Seems the driver regularly beats on his car. The oil is severely breaking down. The VQ37VHR is known to run hot, and his oil is probably being stressed. An oil cooler would probably benefit his car more.
Old 01-28-2010, 12:37 AM
  #30  
JonfromCB
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Originally Posted by juicybusa
Not sure if this will work- I'll try to attach.

Engine Oil Analysis @14000mi - Nissan Ester Oil, OEM Filter
Analysis is showing a whole lot of wear or maybe its taking long to break in. I'm glad I got baseline measurements from when I first purchased the car.

After the 2500mi flush they're recommending, I'll stick with the Nissan Ester Oil one more time to see if it shows improvement.

For comparison purposes, I'll probably switch to a different oil (Mobil 1 EP or Amsoil) after that.

Juicy', This looks like the Mobil 1 reports I've seen from people
who drive hard and leave it in for 7K....more iron than a
one-a-day Plus Iron. Whatever your driving style/environment is,
I'd highly recommend not going over 3700 miles betweeen changes.

I've got to ask....can you describe your driving to us please?
% city, % highway, stop and go, do you drive it hard? and what
kind of temperatures are you driving in? Is it making any noises?
Have you discussed your UOAs with your dealership?

Personally, I would do two really short interval oil changes (300
miles each) with PP ($20/5quarts at Walmart) using a different
brand of oil filter, followed by a 3700 mile run with Nissan and
another UOA. It's just my preference, but I would use this
approach instead of a "engine flush product" on a new car.
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