Are you using a defouler/O2 spacer? sometime sit helps but its a hit or miss. I've been fortune with 3 different test pipes, I've never gotten a CEL.
Test pipes are known to give off fumes. Some prefer HFC becaues of this. But if there is a leak by the y pipe, test pipes, or header connections, it could make the fuse travel faster to you.[/QUOTE]


It's the test pipes themselves, that's the problem. they are or were leaking at the flange that meets the headers. Silly me for thinking some cheaper eBay test pipes would not have fitment issues lol and therefore leaks. I re-tightened everything down, used lock washers, used RTV high temp sealant around the flange, and even used some exhaust wrap/tape (for leaks) from the auto store lol. It's quiet and doesn't smell as bad for now. New test pipes on the way (3x the cost).... and the MLS gaskets.... then we'll see if the y-pipe fits better or if it's still pressed hard and rubbing up against the underbody of the car.

 

any application that utilizes a wideband oxygen sensor from the factory will have this sensor be upstream pre cat. And the downstream post cat sensor will be a narrow band sensor who’s only purpose is to monitor catalytic converter efficiency for emission purposes.

 

Post cat sensors are narrow band. Wideband would not be accurate at all after the cat.

 

Hi Big Spoon, you seem to have missed one of the most important parts of this link




Widebands just like narrow are oxygen detecting sensors. Most aftermarket units seek to Bosch and Denso for their sensors which also means that we can depend on a car that utilizes a Bosch/Denso sensors from factory.

Narrowbands since they get fed with catalyst gases(filtered) are post cat are used for final fuel trims I.E idle, cruise and others.
Widebands are the main line of defense and detect raw gases, from factory they are placed upstream/ Pre-cat to determine your engine's Airfuel ratios.

Being that these cars bring two wideband sensors/ AF/ Precat that feed the ECM this reading can be monitored externally with some OBD diagnostic applications without the need of external sensors. Faulty reading of these sensors will affect the car as a whole. New sensors will take care of any suspected issue.

You can add an additional sensor anywhere you'd like in the exhaust.
If you install a wideband post cat you'll see similar voltage numbers as your factory Narroband O2s post cat.
If you install a wideband sensor pre cat it will mimic the same afr as the factory AF sensor.
If you were able to install a wideband after both banks have joined and the vehicle doesnt have catalytic converters you would read a calculation of the sum of both banks.(No way of doing this with cats since they're placed before the Y pipe.

Final conclusion:
The VHR utilizes 2 A/F wideband sensors pre cat, 2 Narrowband O2 sensors post cat to measure, monitor and adjust your trims. It's quite dependent on the reading of the Narrowband as many Testpipe owners have documented.
By having this technology and being OBD friendly means you can obtain 4 individual signals in the palm of your hands wirelessly, something aftermarket companies wont be able to do. If there was any suspicion of a faulty reading, sensor replacement would get you set to where you can depend on this system again. Same goes for any erroneous voltage reading.
Dealers/Tuners and us have been dependent on these readings on these cars since 2008 so issues in this aspect would be well documented and even talked about today. What we usually see is issues due to flame maps/burble tunes that wreak havoc on them and the fix ends up being a new sensor.


If this doesn't help let me know of what you're referring to specifically, again these cars are unlike most older tunable vehicles around those times. At the same time many newer vehicles have been opting for this and incorporate both factory sensor readings into their datalogging.

 

I stand corrected.

Rather, I sit corrected lol

 

So, I finally pulled the trigger on Z1's EcuTek tuning package/kit. I'm starting to see why some people say Z1 has abysmal customer service or product support. The kit came with ZERO instructions. I tried to figure it out and didn't get far. Reached out to Z1 and all I got were one-sentence simple replies, then the replies stopped altogether. First, they just sent me a link to an EcuTek video on YouTube that was outdated and not applicable to my situation and questions. UGH don't even get me started, that's not why I'm making this post lol.

Bringing it back to the wideband discussion we've been having in this thread. I've been playing around with my EcuTek data logging features etc (since that's all it's currently good for, I have no tune lol). Never did I think $800 would get me such a cool paperweight.

I am exhausted writing this as I stayed up until about 5 am this morning. I need sleep. So I haven't gone back and re-read the whole thread... but IIRC there were a few people in this thread i.e. BULL who mentioned something like an AEM aftermarket AFR gauge is a waste of money because our cars come with wide bands that can be monitored via the ECU. It's possible that I did not understand, or that those explaining were talking about different apps/programs/methods.... but I'm here to tell you, there is no total AFR reading nor is there any AFR readings for Bank 1 and Bank 2 via the EcuTek real-time data display nor through the data logging. Sure, there are a million things you can log and monitor on this car via EcuTek, but none give me what I was looking for - the whole reason I made this thread - to see where in the exhaust pipeline might be a good place for a single AFR bung/gauge, just like Z1's Y-Pipe has it (pic below). Instead I have all different temp/volt input settings it seems on the AFRs for each Bank 1 and Bank 2....






Talking with a good buddy of mine who's an electrical engineer, he mentioned I could probably export the datalog .csv file showing all the measurable/data-logging related to AFRs and figure out whatever math formula there is to convert the V (voltage) reading from the sensor into a real-time, more digestible AFR reading i.e. 14.7 (stoich). He said that's essentially what an aftermarket wideband sensor and gauge are doing behind the scenes and all we see is the Air to Fuel Ratio readout. I don't want to have to pull a data log file, open the Excel sheet, do the math formula etc just to figure out what my AFRs were. I WANT real-time readings displayed on a gauge inside the cabin as I drive. So this thread should be less about what I NEED and what I WANT. And I WANT to put an O2 sensor bung probably at that Y pipe collector and then figure out where to mount my AEM gauge inside the car. My research into pillar gauge pods for our cars shows very, very little promise or options. Funny, I had a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9l that I supercharged back in the day and even THAT had more options for a pillar gauge pod (triple) setup lol.

Anyways, I think I'm rambling and that I've answered my own question: I'll set up my y-pipe bung just like Z1 does.

Proof of what I'm talking about with EcuTek not having anything more than voltage readings for the O2 sensors:

 

Way too long and disorganized of a post to sort through.

Ecutek is pretty simple to use and figure out, and with plenty of support on ecutek website and other forums/threads if you can’t.

myself along with thousands of others use ecutek to monitor bank 1 and bank 2 afr, and average of both banks afr, along with bank 1 bank 2 and avg of banks target. As well as long term and short term
fuek trims on bank 1 and bank 2. So yes you can fully monitor all AFR and trims with ecutek. I literally do it on a daily basis with the ecutek gauge feature as well as for data logging.

 

Thanks for the reply man! Sorry if I ruffled your feathers by offering a critique of this issue of widebands at hand. Sorry you couldn't follow along with my grammar or sentence structure or organization.

If my idea is completely BS, why does Z1 sell their y-pipe with an O2 sensor bung already welded on? It's like, it's not even an option to order a y-pipe without the bung installed.

But back to your post. Instead of trashing me, how I post, my idea(s), or trying to say, show, or make me look stupid because "I just can't get it" whereas everyone else can. Instead of telling me how wrong I am and how right you are about how you and a million others use EcuTek to monitor AFRs, maybe you could shine some light on HOW you figure out AFR readings i.e. 14.7 on a gauge vs the voltage (i.e. 1.00 V) that EcuTek reading gives you....

I'd ask you to re-read my post so you might understand my question specifically....but I don't want you to come at me again about disorganized post structure.

 

Only challenge this presents is if you're also running the EcuTek Bluetooth ProECU setup

That's why I wanted to run one single sensor up to the cabin for real-time view all the time, no matter if I'm running some app on a phone or through some other OBD2 dongle deal-y-o.

Now I'm looking at 3 pod pillar gauge setup and curious what other gauges I would like to have that are important for our engine. Obviously, I'm not running any boost so no need for that lol. I heard oil pressure is suspect on our VQ37s so maybe I'd add that later down the road.

 

 

This is what my log looks like when I snapped the picture.

 

I can see AFRs on both banks using the EcuTek Bluetooth dongle and the app on my 2011 G37.
Keep in mind a single AFR can make you think all is good, but one bank could be VERY lean an the other rich and all you see is "everything is ok"

 

WTF lol mine looks nothing like that! Ugh it even says I have a 370Z ECU?

 

OMG how do you guys get to these screens on your app? I mean, I can see why you might think I am dumb when you can see this data so easily. My screenshots look nothing like this. I have only volts displaying. I can't get any of those AFR readouts on the gauge. I can't see the letters "afr" anywhere on data logging. It even says I have a 370Z ECM wtf.

Maybe it's because I'm running the EcuTek app on an Android and not iPhone like you guys screenshots?

Or is it because my "tuner" Z1 hasn't done jack sh*t with my tuning package deal-y-o since I purchased it? I mean, from what I understand I was supposed to first send my ECU data to Z1 Motorsports and then they would work up a tune? I did that, AND I sent them a few data logs too just in case. I wasn't sure how this works and Z1 doesn't respond to my emails or phone calls. And their kit comes with ZERO instructions lol. I've had to contact EcuTek directly for some support. Still waiting on their reply too.

Until then, I have a $800 paperweight of a EcuTek kit that basically does nothing but data log in volts and tell me what DTC CEL codes I have, but won't let me clear them. Sigh.

 

It may be the Android app... I installed the EcuTek app on my Android tablet. Then it wanted to know my tuner, and wanted me to create an account. That's when I stopped, as the iPhone app doesn't ask for any of that info and allows you to use the app right away.