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Yes, that's correct for my version of the test! Try that and keep those wires as short as possible between the two amps.
Absinth's version is to connect it the same way at the Bose end but for the RCA you connect the red to the center pin, connect the shield drain wire to the outer part, and either leave the black wire disconnected - or try connecting it to ground.
I'll go one step further and suggest on the cables you show above, leave some of that shield wire exposed on one of the wires on the 4-channel end and maybe, just maybe, try grounding the shield to the new amp...
These methods might throw your whole system out of true balanced mode and might make it noisier than what you're already chasing ... but it's worth a try because you might just find a combination that works. Good luck.
Just conveniently as short as possible. What you are trying to avoid is having an extra coil of wire laying in the trunk acting like an antenna. Since you are making them yourself, just make them fit.
Yes, that's correct for my version of the test! Try that and keep those wires as short as possible between the two amps.
Absinth's version is to connect it the same way at the Bose end but for the RCA you connect the red to the center pin, connect the shield drain wire to the outer part, and either leave the black wire disconnected - or try connecting it to ground.
I'll go one step further and suggest on the cables you show above, leave some of that shield wire exposed on one of the wires on the 4-channel end and maybe, just maybe, try grounding the shield to the new amp...
These methods might throw your whole system out of true balanced mode and might make it noisier than what you're already chasing ... but it's worth a try because you might just find a combination that works. Good luck.
sup guys! Just tried skylines method . I only made 1 set of the RCA so far. So only have 2 channels working. Currently on channel 1-2 have tweeters and channel 3-4 have the mid ranges. tried it out and it actually made the buzzing on one one of the channel go away but the other channel is still buzzing. I haven’t tried grounding the shield part on the Skar amp side to anything or absinthe method so I will try that in a few. Just wanted to update. Maybe I’m doing something wrong on one of the channels? Also one of the channels I made the cable maybe like 1 inch short idk if that has anything to do with the buzzing.
Also wanted to say that tapping into the sub directly for the bass sounds really good but the thing is the bass is really strong or “constant” even at low volume. If I fix the buzzing noise I might tap into the rears once the buzzing is completely eliminated. I ended up picking up 2 sets of Morels Maximo Ultra 602 components which I’m super stoked to install and a jl 400/4 amp so if everything doesn’t go well with the buzzing (although so far I am making noticeable progress) i was planning on installing this in my f350 that’s already wired for it but if no luck I will just install that jl amp that support the balanced differential inputs and the morels in the g37.
Update: still on skylines method, the channel that buzzes, if I disconnect it and the rca touches literally anything metal the speakers make a popping noise. But on the rca or channel with no buzzing this issue does nothing occur. Any ideas or suggestions?
Gonna attempt absinthe method now. Would u say this is proper length between the 1503 wire and the rca connector? Or should I make the rca connector as close to the wire
as physically possible?
Also one last thing 🙏🏼 For absinthe method, since I’m splicing the shield wire into the negative (outer) on the rca point do I have to splice in the shield wire on the BOSE amp side into the negatives of the b41 connector? Or just leave the bose amp side exactly as I’ve done in the last attempt?
Sorry I'm late the action here. Hey, you got ONE channel to work cleanly? That's something! Trying to figure out why one and not both though... It wouldn't have been the 1" difference in length, but are you sure you got +/- right on both at the Bose end?
The best thing would be if you could solder the 1503 directly to RCA plugs... The idea is to take that shield as far as possible. Any unshielded wire in the circuit has the potential to pickup interference. What's the deal with that RCA in the pic, are the red and black wires single conductors or is that a Y-cable with 2 shielded leads?
No problem man, here is the link to the RCA cable. It’s a rca cable with both left and right connectors and each connector has the +/-. They come like that out the box CESS-064-1f Speaker Cables to RCA Plugs Adapter, 2-Channel (1 Foot)
So yeah, those RCA 1-ft "speaker" cables are not the ideal thing to use in this application because they are unshielded wires. If you're up for doing some soldering build yourself some custom cables. BUT, it sounds like you've figured it out and gotten it all to work without the noise so this is great. And if it's working - don't fix it.
Now tell us what's up with the sub. Aren't you taking that signal from pins 16 & 17 of the large Bose connector, or pins 8 & 9 of B43? At either plug, the light blue wire is "+" and the purple wire is "-". That signal source should follow the head unit's volume control, it shouldn't be a constant level. So I'm not sure what's happening there.
For the speakers side of the project, on the b41 connector (wires I’m tapping into for the 4 channel amp) couldn’t I just cut off the wires I’m tapping into and solder them then heat shrink the rca wires in? Just cuz t tapping is such a mess and the bose amp wires are super thin. The only one I wouldn’t cut would be the shield wire right? I understand if I ever wanted to ever go back to oem speakers (why would I) I would need to just solder the wires back into the actual connector.
