Right, pins 1&2 on B46 for the sub amp input - got it. In fact, you could unplug that connector from the Bose sub amp since you're no longer using it or the stock driver, right? But that signal should follow the head unit's volume and tone controls. It should get quiet when you turn things down.

Also, check out how you have the head unit "fade" controls set. You now have WAY more power available to the front doors and your new sub so you might want to experiment with balancing things. Plus you have level controls on all those new amp channels so you should be able to adjust it to sound great.

Didn't you say you still had the front door stock tweeters running? If you cut off the LF & RF wires leading into B41 you will lose those tweets. You probably don't need them with your new drivers, but if things are working as it is, maybe you should leave it... Or are you just trying to clean up your install a bit after all this experimenting and wire tapping?

Again, the goal is to have as little of the + & - signal wires exposed without being enclosed in a shield. So the slickest would be to use that mic cable directly from B41 to soldered on RCA connectors at the 4-channel. Same thing for the sub leads. 2nd best, if you still want to use those "speaker" pigtails, you need to cut those wires real close to the RCAs and tie in your mic cable. That would limit your signal cable's exposure to like 1"...

 

Yes I’m trying to clean things up as there are just so many t taps bunched up at the connector lol. I think I’m gonna just cut all the wires I’m using off the b41 connector and extend the length of the cables like 4-6 inches with a little thicker wire. And then use the t taps with the extra length I have now. I had to do this with 2 wires already as I cut too short one time and didn’t have enough wire anymore to t-tap and it didn’t give me issues.

 

Update: the fronts stopped buzzing (as I said before) for the fronts with skylines methods. Upon doing skylines method for the rear, the buzzing didn’t stop and made the fronts buzz. I gave up trying to get the rears to stop buzzing so just used y splitters for the rca that doesn’t buzz (front speakers) and all speakers are now NOT buzzing. Not sure why the rear doesn’t want to stop buzzing if I use the rca method for the rears. But oh well! It worked! Lol

 

Well, um, glad you lost the buzz in general, and I hope you are happy with the way the system is working now.

This is one of those things where it's hard to understand exactly what you're trying to do. Like it's harder to explain it by typing it out here than it probably is in real life. In that last post, when you say "... for the rear", do you mean for your new sub?

Because I thought:
#1. your stock Bose amp was still running RR & LR door speakers, plus the front door factory tweeters, (plus the in-dash CENTER speaker).
#2. your new 4-channel amp was running new front door woofers (2 channels) and new front door mids (other 2 channels),
#3. and you were also running a new sub amp and driver by tapping off the signal before the Bose sub amp.

So is it the sub link that is putting the buzz back into everything?

But then again, if it's working to your satisfaction you can stop now!

 

I tapped into RIGHT/LEFT FRONTS+/-(wires 33-36) speakers for the super tweeters i installed and that FIXED the buzzing! and then for the mid ranges I was trying to tap into the RIGHT/LEFT REAR+/- (wires 23-26) for a total of 2 sets of RCAS made in your method. But when I would plug in the rcas to the rear wires the buzzing would come back on ALL speakers. It works now fine just by not tapping into RIGHT/LEFT REAR+/- and just using Y splitters on the fronts. But it just bothers me that I can’t figure out why the REARS make buzzing when the rcas are connected. I tried keeping both ends (skar amp side) of the shield wire connected together and not connected to anything. Also on bose side I tried leaving the shield wires disconnected and connected to the shield wire on the connector. Too many combos I tried. But I just got over it so I’ll leave it be and just use the signal from fronts. The subwoofer is connected to 1-2 on b46. The reason I tried figuring out why the buzzing would come back when I plugged in the rcas into the rear was

1. It bothered me knowing the buzzing was there when the rcas were plugged in and I just want to learn more! (If I had no patience I would have bought an AMP that supports differential inputs)

2. because I think I want to install component sets on all 4 doors and just have 1 channel for each rca.

but I’m over it so I will just keep it the way it works!

I really appreciate all the help!

Next project . Gonna do a complete system overhaul on my non bose Frontier and speaker upgrade on my BOSE armada (which I installed a subwoofer already) next hopefully it goes smooth with all the knowledge you guys gave me. As you can see I’m a Nissan guy all the way (:

 

Glad you're having fun experimenting and that you've found a setup that works good. You're a fast learner. Good luck with the other cars. Be careful or you will need to expand your vinyl wrap business to include audio installations. (By the way, there is a sub-forum here called "Audio, Video, and Electronics" if you need more advice later - I'm surprised the mods haven't moved this thread there.)

I'll just add a couple more comments and then I'll shut up. Really.

The only difference between the audio signal of RIGHT FRONT and RIGHT REAR, for example, is volume level. In the same way that "balance" changes the volume levels of left and right speakers, "fader" changes the volume levels of front and back speakers on the stock system. It's not adjusting the power amp, it's adjusting the amount of signal coming out of the head unit and going into the amp. For example, if you move the "fader" control all the way to "R" then the front door speakers are essentially muted and the power amp inputs have no signal to those channels.

So when you were trying to tap off the REAR signals to drive the new front door woofers, the "fader" control would have become a balance control between the individual front door drivers and frankly, that would be a mess to try to get balanced and sounding good.

In my opinion (and what I think doesn't really matter) running your two new front door drivers in bi-amped mode as you have set it up is overkill. Driving each super-tweeter with their own 150w amp channel is almost insane! Subs need a lot of power to literally move all that air. Low frequencies need more watts, but high frequencies don't. Now the GOOD thing about the way you are running it is that you have controls on the 4-channel amp to set the levels of the woofers vs the tweeters. That is handy! If it sounds too "brittle" back off the amp channels running the supertweets.

One more thing... You said in your first post that you got "Skar 10" mids" for the lower door drivers? If those are the FSX10s then you're cool. But they are any of their 10" subs then you have a big gap in your frequency response. The subs only cover something like 28-325 hz and the super tweeters cover 1300-20k which means nothing is reproducing the sounds between 325 and 1300hz... That would sound boomy + hissy with nothing in between.

But DON'T CHANGE ANYTHING in your G now. It ain't broke, don't fix it. Move on to your other vehicles and you will keep learning more each time.