Hey all,
Driving around yesterday everything seemed fine but when I exited the highway after driving about 35-40 miles I went to push in the clutch and it felt very soft. I could not put the car into any gear. I pulled over, checked the clutch reservoir, it was full. I got back in the car, it started to work as normal except the pedal was still a bit soft. I continued on my journey, finished my errand, drive home. On the drive home the clutch was catching just off the floor (like an inch) and would return to the top, but pretty slowly. Today, I had some more problems, but it now soft all the time. Basically it seems fine for a while, then off a good bit, then back to fine. Thoughts? Only 60k on my 2011 Sedan. The clutch seems to grab fine and shift mostly fine. Is my slave shot? Master? Both? Would appreciate some help from folks who have had this or a similar issue. Thanks in advance.

 

Hmm. Probably the csc as those go quite regularly. Usually its an internal leak so won't see fluid on the floor.

 

Either the slave or the master. But yeah, it's your slave. Better get on that repair before you get stranded.

 

Crap....OK. Thanks y'all.

 

With 60k on the clock, should I just go ahead an replace the clutch disk as well?

 

I'd do the disc and all bearings whilst I was in there.

idk that much about these cars yet. But hopefully someone more seasoned can chime in about how many times the pressure plate is reusable. I presume at least one time?

If the mechanic is extremely competent, the rear main seal is a good idea too.

Apparently, the stock CSC is prone to fail. Z1 sells a metal one that seems to be more robust.

 

If you drive normally, 60k is way early to replace the clutch plate... unless you're looking for excuses to do a clutch/FW upgrade. That's valid.

 

If you're going to do the slave, it's wise to replace the master at the same time.

 

Since the transmission has to come out to replace the slave.... I'd think it makes sense to go ahead and replace the disk/pp while in there? Basically.... It'd just be the cost of the materials I'd think. Thoughts from those that have done it?

 

The disc is a wear item...so yeah, to me it makes sense. Its probably like 2/3 thru its life. Same with any bearings.

The PP...nah. The friction surface should be totally fine. Usually you can just scuff the old residue off and go. The PP does have all those crazy springs and vibration prevention thingies in it. That's kinda why I asked whether anyone was actually replacing PP's during clutch jobs. Doesn't seem like they're wear items though.

Idk. Rockauto has full Nissan branded clutch kits for like $650. So...maybe not even worth the gamble if you wanted to just play safe. I just hate to be wasteful.

 

Hey all....PSA here.....CHANGE YOUR FLUID!!! (Mainly yelling that to myself). I had a small epiphany this morning to do a fluid changeout like I did in my old G (at about 140k). I just did the "Ranger" method for flushing the fluid ( ). Basically, you suck out the fluid from the reservoir with a large syringe (just what is in the reservoir), clean out the bottom of the fluid cup, refill with clean fluid, pump the clutch pedal about 30 ish times, lather rinse repeat until your fluid is clean. Took me about 4 full replacements. Now my pedal is back to normal. It went from super soft, not returning all the way, engaging about 1/2" off the floor, but to full return, normal stiffness (steady gentlemen), and the normal engagement point.



The attached picture is the initial flush plus 3 fairly clean flushes. YIKES!

 

That's pretty dark fluid. I never let mine get that bad. Flushed every 2 years. Once there's fresh fluid in the res, gravity bleed for a few refills then traditional to finish it off.

If you follow that video at all, DO NOT pump so fast. Good way to aerate the fluid. Pumping should be slow and even.

 

10-4 - I don't think I usually pump that fast, so no worries.

 

So...it seems that my fluid change was simply a band-aid. So I'm back to probably replacing the MC and SC. Since the SC seems to be the main issue, I'm also thinking about the ZSpeed CMAK and since I'd have to drop the tranny to do that, might as well replace the clutch while I'm in there. So....Would it make sense to just get the full kit from Zspeed that includes the clutch, lightened flywheel, upgraded clutch disc, pressure plate and CMAK?
Any opinions on that line of thinking?

Also, who in the metro Atlanta would be a reputable place to have the clutch/CMAK installed. I was thinking Z1, but since it seems they have issues with their CSC elimination kit, so (I think I'd better go with Zspeed CMAK and) I wouldn't think they'd want to install the competitor kit. Someone else recommended another place in ATL (that I now cannot remember the name), but when I looked at the reviews....yikes. So some other place recommendations would be helpful. My main mechanic retired and closed his shop, so..... (Normally I do this sort of work myself, but I have no time, nor the patience for a clutch swap out.)

 

Z1. Say what you want, they generally make great parts. I guess with their CSC elimination kit, you could always buy a different kit. Their installers are top notch.