G37 Sedan

Clutch Issues, need some help pls

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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 12:04 PM
  #16  
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Soft pedal sounds like Master. I would start there as this is something you can do yourself or pay a shop for about about 2 hours of labor. Slave cylinder failure would have most likely drained your reservoir. Ask me how I know.

I personally went with the CMAK, new fluids, pilot bushing and never looked back. Car had 45k miles and the clutch looked really good so I held myself back from replacing it.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 12:04 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by presidentsdad
So....Would it make sense to just get the full kit from Zspeed that includes the clutch, lightened flywheel, upgraded clutch disc, pressure plate and CMAK?
Any opinions on that line of thinking?
Do you plan on keeping the car for a few years to warrant the parts & labor for upgrades? And are you willing to jump in feet first with a LW flywheel and upgraded clutch? I ask, because if you don't like it, too bad for you.

Pessimism aside, looking at this repair as an upgrade opportunity... that's the way to do it, IMO.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 12:55 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Do you plan on keeping the car for a few years to warrant the parts & labor for upgrades? And are you willing to jump in feet first with a LW flywheel and upgraded clutch? I ask, because if you don't like it, too bad for you.

Pessimism aside, looking at this repair as an upgrade opportunity... that's the way to do it, IMO.
Yeah, only had the car for less than 3 and I usually keep my cars about 12-14 years. So yeah, in it for the long haul.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 12:56 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by RobC7
Soft pedal sounds like Master. I would start there as this is something you can do yourself or pay a shop for about about 2 hours of labor. Slave cylinder failure would have most likely drained your reservoir. Ask me how I know.

I personally went with the CMAK, new fluids, pilot bushing and never looked back. Car had 45k miles and the clutch looked really good so I held myself back from replacing it.
So...if I just did the master and that doesn't appear to be the issue....would I need to do it again when replacing everything else or is the danger of debris not that serious?
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 01:06 PM
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My CSC failed at 18k miles, six years ago. Fluid levels did not drop (which was weird), and I did not replace the MC.

FWIW
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 02:10 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by presidentsdad
So...if I just did the master and that doesn't appear to be the issue....would I need to do it again when replacing everything else or is the danger of debris not that serious?
I wouldn't worry about that, once you bleed it will remove the remaining residue. ​​​​​​

Will the CSC eventually fail? Yes but I recommend going the master cylinder route as it's only ~100 and it may save you from going down the rabbit hole $$ right now. Would hate for you to go the opposite way and then still have issues.

Do some searching around the forums and it may help you make your decision which route you want to take on.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 04:28 PM
  #22  
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Anyone heard of or have an opinion of the following Atlanta Area shops for Z/G work?
Forged Performance
Royalty Performance
Gwinnett Performance Automotive Service

All state Z/G shops, but wondering if someone had specific experience.
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Old Dec 19, 2020 | 11:21 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by presidentsdad
Anyone heard of or have an opinion of the following Atlanta Area shops for Z/G work?
Forged Performance
Royalty Performance
Gwinnett Performance Automotive Service

All state Z/G shops, but wondering if someone had specific experience.
Alrighty then.... I thought I'd add my experience for posterity. I went with a "local" place (about an hour away), called Royalty Performance. I went with their street clutch with lightened flywheel (about 20ish pounds) and quiet clutch (these are made in Georgia by Competition Clutches -- or so I was told). I added the ZSpeed CMAK v3 to the order. With parts/labor came to about $1900. Royalty did a great job. I think the CSC was doomed from the start on this car as I have NEVER been able to drive it smoothly (and I have never had anything other than a manual transmission car in my 30-ish years of driving) even after installing an RJM clutch pedal (though that did help). Now, it drives like a dream. The only real compliant I have is that is it noisier than the stock flywheel/clutch assembly. But for the MUCH MUCH smoother driving experience, I'll take that trade off any day! Hope this helps everyone.
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Old Dec 19, 2020 | 11:36 AM
  #24  
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Clutch, FW, CMAK and labor... $1900. What is that, $1400 parts and $500 labor? Seems about right.

Originally Posted by presidentsdad
Now, it drives like a dream.
Can you speak to that for a bit, please?
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