Throttle Lag: Help me understand
Well if you are talking about the 6 speed throttle lag taking off from a stop- it is def electronic- because I could get the clutch connected and with the gas pedal to the floor the RPMs dont go up for a second or 2
For what ever reason, my 11 G37 Sport Sedan has zero throttle delay. When stabbing the throttle during heel and toe shifting, the engine responds right away.
I think this post does a great job detailing the issue some of us are having with the 6mt. It probably doesn't apply to the 7at. I have this issue, but it happens randomly. Sometimes the car is very responsive, but when the "lag" shows up, it is gutless.
I think this post does a great job detailing the issue some of us are having with the 6mt. It probably doesn't apply to the 7at. I have this issue, but it happens randomly. Sometimes the car is very responsive, but when the "lag" shows up, it is gutless.
• Our engines don't make much power below 2500 - 3000 RPM.
As one post mentioned, he floored it at 1500 RPM and the car didn't respond as he would have liked.
Where possible, you should not be flooring it at RPM that low.
It is called "lugging the engine" and it is not good for it:
https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...ad-for-engine/
Crisp throttle response requires a clean MAF, clean throttle bodies WITH the accelerator pedal released learnng, throttle valve closed position learning, and the CRITICAL the idle air volume learning run to completion.
Question for those that have the 6MT and the "lag isssue":
Does it still "lag" if you floor the throttle at 3500 RPM?
When I said that I floored it, I meant I was in neutral going to 1st. I was not in gear, I was trying to bring the revs up to get going. Normally, I would just give a little gas and the engine would respond and rev up at the normal rate. I'd release the clutch and the car would start moving. No drama.
The incident I referred to, was not like that. Since I was on a hill, I give it a little more gas to compensate for rolling back. I take my foot off the brake and give it some gas. No response. I'm rolling back, so I give it more gas. The RPMs slowly creep up. I'm basically flooring it now, but the RPM is too low to try to get going. I don't want to roll back into the car behind me, so I release the clutch and it struggles to get going. Did I lug the engine? Maybe, but I sure as hell wasn't trying to. The car gave me no choice.
I've been reading these forums and looking for a fix for years. I've tried some of the basic "solutions". Cleaned MAF sensors. Cleaned throttle bodies. Changed spark plugs. I still have the problem. The weird thing is, it's not all the time. I would say 95% of the time, the cars drives great. Then the issue comes up, and it's a whole different car. No lights, no codes. Just.... slow.... It's hard to describe. That's why I referenced the post by audiRS4ever. If you didn't read it, you should. It's very informative.
I'm also well aware of the power it makes at lower revs. It's not a lot, but it's adequate. This issue is not because of low torque, it's something else. It kinda feels like the car all of a sudden became turbocharged and needs to spool up.
The incident I referred to, was not like that. Since I was on a hill, I give it a little more gas to compensate for rolling back. I take my foot off the brake and give it some gas. No response. I'm rolling back, so I give it more gas. The RPMs slowly creep up. I'm basically flooring it now, but the RPM is too low to try to get going. I don't want to roll back into the car behind me, so I release the clutch and it struggles to get going. Did I lug the engine? Maybe, but I sure as hell wasn't trying to. The car gave me no choice.
I've been reading these forums and looking for a fix for years. I've tried some of the basic "solutions". Cleaned MAF sensors. Cleaned throttle bodies. Changed spark plugs. I still have the problem. The weird thing is, it's not all the time. I would say 95% of the time, the cars drives great. Then the issue comes up, and it's a whole different car. No lights, no codes. Just.... slow.... It's hard to describe. That's why I referenced the post by audiRS4ever. If you didn't read it, you should. It's very informative.
I'm also well aware of the power it makes at lower revs. It's not a lot, but it's adequate. This issue is not because of low torque, it's something else. It kinda feels like the car all of a sudden became turbocharged and needs to spool up.
I've been reading these forums and looking for a fix for years. I've tried some of the basic "solutions". Cleaned MAF sensors. Cleaned throttle bodies. Changed spark plugs. I still have the problem. The weird thing is, it's not all the time. I would say 95% of the time, the cars drives great. Then the issue comes up, and it's a whole different car. No lights, no codes. Just.... slow.... It's hard to describe. That's why I referenced the post by audiRS4ever. If you didn't read it, you should. It's very informative.
I'm also well aware of the power it makes at lower revs. It's not a lot, but it's adequate. This issue is not because of low torque, it's something else. It kinda feels like the car all of a sudden became turbocharged and needs to spool up.
I'm also well aware of the power it makes at lower revs. It's not a lot, but it's adequate. This issue is not because of low torque, it's something else. It kinda feels like the car all of a sudden became turbocharged and needs to spool up.

The ECU ID is 5 digits long and is a mix of letters and number. For example: 1NX6B
(Often an extra "1" is added to the beginning of the ECU ID, just ignore it)
The last character is the ECU version. In the example of 1NX6B, that is the second version. 1NX6A would have been the first version.
Again, working with this example, the latest update is 1NX6D.
Have you ever experienced the "lag" if you floor the throttle at 3000 RPM or more?
After cleaning the throttle bodies, did you do the idle air volume learning?
Last edited by SonicVQ; Jul 6, 2020 at 08:07 AM.
Have you checked if there is an ECU update available for your car? You can use NDSIII or OBD Fusion to get the ECU ID.
The ECU ID is 5 digits long and is a mix of letters and number. For example: 1NX6B
(Often an extra "1" is added to the beginning of the ECU ID, just ignore it)
The last character is the ECU version. In the example of 1NX6B, that is the second version. 1NX6A would have been the first version.
Again, working with this example, the latest update is 1NX6D.
Have you ever experienced the "lag" if you floor the throttle at 3000 RPM or more?
After cleaning the throttle bodies, did you do the idle air volume learning?
The ECU ID is 5 digits long and is a mix of letters and number. For example: 1NX6B
(Often an extra "1" is added to the beginning of the ECU ID, just ignore it)
The last character is the ECU version. In the example of 1NX6B, that is the second version. 1NX6A would have been the first version.
Again, working with this example, the latest update is 1NX6D.
Have you ever experienced the "lag" if you floor the throttle at 3000 RPM or more?
After cleaning the throttle bodies, did you do the idle air volume learning?
When the problem is present, the hesitation is less pronounce in the upper RPM ranges. So I would say, yes, it is there, but not as bad as lower RPMs.
I did not do the relearning for idle. The car idles fine. I would say it idles between 600-700. No random drops or raises.
I have not checked for ECU updates. I will look into that.
When the problem is present, the hesitation is less pronounce in the upper RPM ranges. So I would say, yes, it is there, but not as bad as lower RPMs.
I did not do the relearning for idle. The car idles fine. I would say it idles between 600-700. No random drops or raises.
When the problem is present, the hesitation is less pronounce in the upper RPM ranges. So I would say, yes, it is there, but not as bad as lower RPMs.
I did not do the relearning for idle. The car idles fine. I would say it idles between 600-700. No random drops or raises.
EDIT - didn't recognize your username and saw that you already commented. Disregard
Is it this same issue? "throttle restriction". I only heard about it from a hyper tech tune cd that was for sale.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...striction.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...striction.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/private...rogrammer.html
Supposedly the throttle plates only opens to 60% up until 15mph. Tunes let it go 100%.
are we talking about the same thing perhaps?
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...striction.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...striction.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/private...rogrammer.html
Supposedly the throttle plates only opens to 60% up until 15mph. Tunes let it go 100%.
are we talking about the same thing perhaps?
Last edited by rosskuhns; Jul 12, 2020 at 11:48 AM.
Is it this same issue? "throttle restriction". I only heard about it from a hyper tech tune cd that was for sale.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...striction.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...striction.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/private...rogrammer.html
Supposedly the throttle plates only opens to 60% up until 15mph. Tunes let it go 100%.
are we talking about the same thing perhaps?
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...striction.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...striction.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/private...rogrammer.html
Supposedly the throttle plates only opens to 60% up until 15mph. Tunes let it go 100%.
are we talking about the same thing perhaps?
According to EcuTek, at wide open throttle with a stock tune, the throttle is about 50% open UNTIL 2,200 RPM, then it is opened to ~100% (actually ~96%)
This is a good thing as it prevents lugging the engine at too low RPM, which stresses the motor.
Having the throttle fully opened below 2,200 RPM may sound like a performance increase, but it isn't.
The required WOT air flow at 2,200 RPM is easily met with the throttle opened ~50%.
Selym, someone in one of those threads mentioned that - VVEL and throttle opening. Also sonic makes some good points. Maybe the partial opening is an emissions issue? - or the tuners change the map and it feels like better throttle response, whether it's quicker or not? The *** dyno is worth its weight in price.
Here is what is when VVEL is controlling the air intake.
(From Service Technician Workbook, January 2009)Throttle valve opening after engine warm-up
The intake valves control all engine intake air flow at low- to upper-mid-level rpm.
• Idle: Throttle valve 5 – 8% open
• 1/4 throttle opening: Throttle valve 10 – 40% open – Intake air controlled by VEL system & C-VTC (until approx. 4,000 rpm)
• 1/2 throttle opening: Throttle valve 10 – 60% open – Intake air controlled by VEL system & C-VTC (until approx. 4,000 rpm)
• Full throttle, full acceleration: Throttle valve 100% open – Intake air controlled by throttle valve
• 1/8 throttle opening and constant speed: Throttle valve approx. 20 – 30% open – Intake air controlled by VEL system & C-VTC (until approx. 4,000 rpm)
Interesting stuff, huh?







