So, I just wrecked my trusty daily driver, which was a highly modded Nissan Maxima. All I have left are 3 of my project cars. One is complete (until I buy another part) but it's loud, and impractical for daily driving/borderline dangerous in the rain which isn't good this time of year. One is still in pieces, and the other doesn't run (haven't started on it). I've had my eye on the G37 for a long time as an upgrade for my daily, but I haven't wanted to part ways with my Maxima. Now that I am forced to, my parents are offering to sell me their "San Diego car" which is a 2009 G37S sedan, with 52k miles on it. It basically sat in their condo garage connected to a batter tender, driven 2-4 times a month while my pops was there on business or they were both there to relax. All service done at Infinity.

At first I said "No" since I was already set on going to the CarMax near by to get the M3 they had sitting on the lot. Plus, it's a sedan, and I had always had my eye on the much better looking MT Coupe had I still been interested in it. But the day I was supposed to go, the offer finally worked its way into serious consideration. They offered to sell it to me at KBB trade in value. Which is about 7k right now I believe. At a touch over 50k miles, literally being driven like a baby, serviced on the dot at the dealer, that is one hell of a deal. Even if I don't keep it for very long, I could still drive it for a few years and sell it for the same price. Maybe even more since the depreciation has leveled off. So I am going to tell them yes.

My question is about performance. I get my jollies with my 2 project cars (hopefully a 3rd soon) and I want reliability just like I had in my trusty old maxima which was modded as far as it could before losing too much reliablility. But I am still looking for more straight line performance matching the 335i and M3. I know Ill be happy with the G37's handling after I mod that. but power? I don't want another situation like the G35S that I bought only to find my maxima was much faster and even though the handling was awesome I got bored with the car and ended up selling it to my girlfriend, who's now my fiance.

Does this car have the same bolt on promises that make up a ricers religion, or do they actually do something on this car? It's really all down to whether or not a cars manufacturer intentionally held something back for emissions, reliability, politics, ect.. in order for a bolt on or tune to actually make a difference in the butt-dyno. So did infinity hold back on this one?

For the supercharged guys, what is the reliability of your car now? Does the VQ37HR hold up well to f/i?

what about gearing? Has anyone tried shorter gears in 1-6 and a tall 7th for highway economy?

I am already planning on doing the CAI and most likely an electric cutout since I also had that on my maxima and once you have cutouts with the option to ride in silence and turn up the volume, it's hard to go back to a dedicated exhaust system.

Is there anything that will actually increase straight line performance other than f/i?

One thing I loved about the g35 was the fast and crisp shifting. Can I expect this also in the G37? better or worse? Is there anything out there to make it better? I did the Valve body mod on my maxima (mostly to prevent the 5AT failure it's prone for) but even with the added shift kit, I didn't notice anything worth while.

Oh and one last thing. Body wise. What can I do to make it look better, more like the coupe. bumper swaps, body kits, anything/company recommended?

Thanks if you made it this far. Talk away. I'm interested in learning.

 

People are making up to 372whp with bolt ons in these now. Superchargers are pretty reliable (from a friend of mine who has one), however they are not a super efficient way to go fast. There are other options like rear mounted turbo kits, or twin turbo kits, but no matter what you're looking at the very least at 10k + supporting mods for that kind of power.

If you think 320whp is a good number, that would probably be just a few bolt ons and a good tune from one of the better tuners. (3" intakes, z1 equiv 400hp kit, exhaust, tune). It's not a turbo car, so can't expect anythinig too crazy.

 

All depends on what your expectations are. If you think the G37 7AT (assuming since you compared to your 5 AT G35) is going to make power similar to a BO N54 then you're going to be a bit disappointed. The car will be reliable (much more so than a N54), even with bolt-ons and a little boost (8pds). Boost is expensive, even more so with the 7AT (needs building, >300ft. lbs. will eat it up). There aren't any cheap eBay kits. You can always try to build one yourself.
Stillen is the popular SC choice. Look up 'TopGunz' on the Z forum. He sells a modified Stillen kit that's more reliable than what Stillen offers out of the box.

Different gearing is available; tons of info on here of guys doing swaps.

As an '09, look up the rear timing gasket and familiarize yourself with it in the event you are affected.

If this is going to be your DD, doing simple bolt-ons (I, E, Cat-delete or HFC) and a tune will get you were you want to be. 310+ whp and 260-270 ft. lbs and reliability to boot. Check out the 1/4 mile thread to get an idea of what to expect for straight line speed with BOs. Maintenance has been very easy to perform in my experience.

 

Wait... you've got access to a fully maintained, 2009 Sedan with the RWD Sport Package... with only 52k miles, and from your parents no less? And on top of that, it was a garaged, California car?

What an fantastic opportunity, slushbox notwithstanding. ****** that up right now.

Yes, people have put shorter gears in the auto. You may want to swap in the ring & pinion from the Vert 6MT.

"Fast & crisp shifting" with the 7AT? No, not really. However, poly mounts front and rear will likely give you a quicker throttle response.

 

As in polyurethane motor mounts? I'd like to find out more about what you're referring to.

 

Probably the cheapest way to power is the 400hp kit from Z1 motorsports, but CA will not be happy with you. It has higher flowing intake manifold, headers and test pipes and you should do tune and exhaust. You should get to 330-340 whp with that. Part of the difference between the G and the Maxima is weight, you almost can't beat losing weight for performance. Check out the weight mod.

The most difficult thing to install would be headers, but would give probably 20hp, but most don't have carb stickers. I do know someone who pays someone to pass his 86 VW Syncro if you don't want to fight CARB

Next is suspension, i am looking at the Tein Flex Z to replace my old suspension. There are more expensive kits but bang for the buck I hear they are pretty great.

 

Things you can do to tighten things up, some more than others. The transmission mount is pretty harsh.

Transmission mount ( 1 )
Motor mounts ( 2 )
Differential bushings ( 2+1 )
Subframe collars
Differential brace
Shocks & springs
Swaybars
FSTB

 

Infiniti.

carry on.

 

I would almost say sell it and find a 370z, preferably one that is more bare bones with a 6spd, that way you save about 400 lbs of weight. Any mods after that will make a world of good.

 

Yes, that is exactly what my parents have and I do recognize the value in it, which is why it has changed my mind from getting a car with a more performance oriented platform.

Again, not looking to do anything extreme on this car. I would be happy with something that can keep up with the 335i (or walk it) 340-350hp maybe. one of the first things I though of was weight reduction,particularly unsprung weight since as a general rule you can multiply every pound by X10 for unsprung weight. Something I discovered when swapping out my 55lbs rims out for 18lbs rims in my Maxima. It made a bigger difference than the intake, headers, HFPC and the rest of the exhaust mods together. Does anyone know how heavy the stock rims are on this car? Every pound of rotational mass shaved off is a big plus in my book. And ill check out the weight reduction thread a little later today when I have a minute to read. anyone mind pointing me there or is it a sticky?

I've seen twice now that a tune is recommended. But in my experience, few NA cars actually turn out a noticeable difference. Say you had all the major bolt-ons, what kind of gains could you expect from a tune that the computer doesn't already adjust for with its stock parameters? If it is a good mod, what is best, a full dyno and laptop or are there any decent ECU reflash companies that have it really dialed down?

That Z1 400 Hp Kit looks like a great deal. However, I no longer live in San Diego, where my smog guy is. I wonder if people put the effort into looking at test pipes and headers since all they do is plug into the ECU now.

 

OEM Enkie Sport Wheels
Front : 18 x 7.5 +45 offset - 23.4 pounds
Rear: 18 x 8.5 +50 offset - 25.2 pounds

 

Wheel info right here on the site if you look for it.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/wheels-...reference.html

 

The best thing about these cars is how much aftermarket is available. Not only do you have shared parts between the coupes, but the 35/70Z's as well. Not everything is interchangable but lots of stuff is.

 

A lot of $$$ required to hit that high of power to the wheels but it's good to know that it is definitely possible.

Check out Admin Tuned on youtube and instagram. He can remote tune you after you get all your mods. Most 370z/G37 are in the 310-330whp range after doing test pipes, exhaust, intake, stock headers.

Cams, headers, ported upper & lower intake, EPS throttle bodies, upgraded injectors, e85 tune is big $$ but may be worth it if you want to go from ~320 -> ~360whp.

 

The cams specifically are a ton esp if you're paying for labor.