A sticker is not going to sell a car for me.



Driving hard does not kill wheel bearings. If it did I'd have went through hundreds by now. Maybe you should actually look at the Google search you posted because none indicate what you believe.



Water pumps can and do fail without an overheat. Some cars recommend changing the water pump as part of preventative/basic maintenance too.

 

I would also ad to all of this that when you post your car, type up an ad that sounds coherent. Use complete sentences and spell your words correctly. No one wants to pay top dollar to someone that can't be bothered to complete a thought, type a word out or even spell check their own ad.

...or is that just me?

 

"Wheel Bearings
Wheel bearings are typically located at the spindle of the wheel hub to allow free wheel movement. They are designed to support the weight of the vehicle and allow it to roll with minimal force while withstanding the loads from high speed cornering and hard acceleration and braking. Wheel bearings must withstand outrageous temperatures and conditions. ISUTAMI wheel bearings are featured of steady performance, long life span and high reliability." ISUTAMI Bearing Industries- Leading China Bearings, Bearing Manufacturer, Supplier and Exporter

"Although wheel bearings are engineered to last a long time, constant load and turning takes a toll on the bearings, grease, and seals" https://www.bluestar.com/get_informe...wheel-bearings

"Bearing loads during cornering can be very high compared to bearing loads during straight ahead driving." https://www.cedengineering.com/userf...tions_2555.pdf

Add to all this that a common way to diagnose if you have a bad wheel bearing is it actually turn at speed, which make the bearing noise louder, and obviously, yes, high-speed cornering is a common cause of failure.

Water pumps? Of course some fail without overheating. And a car can get in accident when it's not moving, but that's not how it usually happens.

Water pump part of preventative maintenance? Uh...really? I would love to see this. On some Audis its suggested by others in the car community to do the WP as well as other parts during a timing chain replacement, but the MANUFACTURER does not recommend that. One mans preventative maintenance is not another mans.

But despite being wrong, you're missing the point. The point is, if you start listing off parts and repairs, it starts to sound like a lemon that needs constant expensive work. And when you are competing with dozens or hundreds of other vehicles, people are looking for any reason to pare down the list of cars to look at. Don't give them a reason to count you out.

 

On one hand I kinda agree, but on the other hand, mileage dependent routine maintenance isn't a bad thing--if the manufacturer recommends timing belt replacement at 90K, and you're at 105K and haven't replaced it, I think that's worse than saying you replaced the timing belt and water pump at 90k

I don't agree that high speed cornering kills wheel bearings. Anything other than straight ahead puts additional stress on wheel bearings, which, after enough miles, will result in the need for new bearings.

I think a lot of what you're saying is mileage dependent. I wouldn't worry about those repairs on a car with 90K+ miles. I'd be more concerned if the car had 25K and had a laundry list of parts replaced, or if it had questionable/cheap modifications.

The crux of OPs situation is that the G37 was Infiniti's entry level sales volume leader, with tons of off lease and ex-rental cars flooding the market, and a resale value further diminished by the Q40. G37 Journey's aren't at all rare, and aren't going to command much premium as a private party sale, not when you can get the same car from a dealership for the about the same price with the warm fuzzies of a 30 day 3,000 mile warranty and a x many point mechanics "inspection".

 

Firstly, I never said high-speed cornering 'kills' wheel bearings. My implication was that high-speed cornering is a contributor to wheel bearing failure, which it is, and people will see the worst in anything when they are whittling down their list of cars to look at.

The crux of of the OPs problem? I don't disagree with any of that. What I am saying is, when you and everyone one else is selling the same widget, you have to be careful to not only give yourself as many advantages as possible, but you also have to negate any disadvantages.

Most people (especially in this price bracket) are buying a new-to-them car because their last one became too troublesome to repair, or too expensive to repair. The LAST thing they want to hear about is more repair work. The very reason they are looking for a car is to avoid repair work, and you're gonna remind them of what they are running from?

BTW OP, you are in a super tough price bracket. Most people can get a personal loan for up to 5-6k. Anything more than that and they will need a dedicated car loan. Dedicated car loans become very limited the older your target vehicle is. Anything over 7+ years and you may have a hard time finding a bank that is even willing to talk to you at all. I barely fit in at a good rate ( because the year of my vehicle) last year when I got my '12, and I have pretty good credit. So your target customer is someone who has 5-6k cash, and can get a personal loan for 5-6K. And someone that wants to make payments on a car that is close to 100k miles. This is a VERY narrow group. This is where those little mom and pop used car dealerships thrive, because they can finance 11K cars to people that have a hard time getting financing for that price bracket. Which combined with what Lego said, may be the biggest reasons you are not getting calls. I don't envy your position. Good luck to you, you're gonna need it.

 

This is another good point. Last I looked, my credit union tacked on another 1% to the APR for each year after a 2 year old car. Suddenly, a comparably priced new car with low financing and a manufacturers warranty becomes really appealing.

 

Good thing y'all chilled out because I was fixin' to close this thread.

 

Easy there. Pretty sure we had all our spelling and punctuation correct

 

Yeah, I didn't want to mention that because it SOUNDS ridiculous. But it's very true.

Whenever you are selling anything you want to try to view EVERYTHING from the your potential buyers prospective, how they see the car, how it will set itself apart from others.... and how they are going to pay for it.

 

You got it skipper. We can all play nice in the sandbox.

 

Yeah, but I'm not wrong. Water pumps are wear items. Mitsubishi called for the water pump to be replaced with every 60k (ie timing belt) service. Its right in their FSM. It's not just a recommendation. Water pumps usually start leaking long before they fail. So yes, failure without overheating is how it usually happens.

Just because turning at speed helps diagnose a bad bearing, doesn't mean speed cornering kills it. One does not equal the other.

You can use all the ridiculous logic you like to either like or not like a car, but please don't suggest other people do so.

 

Ahem. .

 

Lets keep things civil shall we? I won't say you're wrong, but I would say the information you are sharing may be inaccurate. I just looked at several mitsu Warranty and Maintenance manuals. All stated belt replacement, but nothing, (not even as far as 120k miles about replacing the water pump. Perhaps you're talking about a specific model.. but didn't mention it. Is that a good idea to do while you're in there? Of course! But to you're point, I would say that 99% of vehicles do not call out the WP as regular maintenance, and that the mention of ANY repairs will be detrimental to your sales ad. You don't see many successful used car dealers spouting off about how many things they had to fix to make a car sellable do you? And they are professionals.

Bearings? Ok. Despite the proof I have provided, and your admission that the cause I specify is actually used to find that exact problem, I'll agree to disagree. Lets be friends.

My logic? Logic very seldom sells cars my new friend. If logic sold cars, we would all be driving Toyota camrys. Emotion sells cars. Emotion sells most things. You didn't buy a G because it was the logical choice. You bought a G because it looked, sounded and felt good to you. Logic , what there is of it for a G, is the added bonus. And if you want to sell a car you better appeal to those emotions, because if you don't, someone else will, knowingly or not.

 

I suppose this really depends on the buyer. If I was looking at two identical cars I would treat both equally and do a thorough inspection. This includes running a diagnostic check to check for any current, pending or history codes. I would also put both vehicles on a lift and closely inspect everything from under neath.

I would not lean towards one over the other just because of a AARP or MARINES sticker on it. The fact that you even offered him that little sketchy trick as a ADVICE just shows what kind of person you are.

I would not say it's a common cause of failure based on experience. Based off your 'logic' that must mean all of the Prius', Corollas and Camrys that come in for wheel bearing replacement is due to the drivers taking corners at high-speeds? I don't think so.

Common causes are more like harsh road impact. Wheels/tires horribly out of balance. Debris and contamination making it into the bearing causing premature failure. Vehicle driven into water levels deep enough to fully submerge the bearing which would allow enough water to enter the bearing to reduce the effectiveness of the grease which would accelerate wear.

Oh wait a second.....Ah. I see. You must be a certified google Technician.



When a water pump catastrophically fails the pulley will usually separate and not spin the propeller of the water pump. So in this scenario you are correct. It CAN lead to overheating. However this is the worst case scenario for water pump failure.

A water pump with a bearing on its way out will cause excessive noise and a customer would likely be concerned and get it replaced.

They can leak coolant from the weep hole or around the water pump mounting bolts. Customer may complain of a coolant smell or seeing something leaking and leaving a mark in their garage/driveway and bring it in to get it replaced.

If the vehicle did exhibit a overheating condition there are ways to easily find out during initial inspection.

Why jump to conclusions and assume the worst? Lack of knowledge is the only thing I can think of.

My previous car was a Acura TL and for their 105,000 mile service it was recommended to replace the timing belt and water pump.

I work for Toyota. When we replace timing belts we also replace the water pump.

I think it's pretty funny how you decided to talk $H!T, but wait a second.

AREN'T YOU THE SAME GUY THAT COULDN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO DO HIS OWN OIL CHANGE WITHOUT MAKING A MESS SO YOU MADE A THREAD TO ASK FOR HELP?? I even contributed and gave you advice.

Thread here. https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...etter-way.html



It's ok. I forgive you. It was early in the AM when you wrote that reply. I'm just going to assume you didn't get your morning coffee.

I'm just gonna leave you here with this.

 

You just HAD to go and do that. Sigh.