If the main diff bushing is blown, and you're relying on the diff brace to keep things solid, then aren't you putting a lot of stress on the diff housing bolt(s) that the brace is connected to?

I'm no mechanical engineer, but it seems to me the diff brace should complement the situation, and not compensate for a problem.

My car has solid poly diff bushings (Whiteline) and a diff brace (Bell). There's no wiggle back there at all. I've also got Z1 poly motor mounts up front, with a FSTB up on top, a lower cradle brace down below, and a poly trans mount in the middle. Truth be told, it's not a luxurious ride anymore, the NVH is somewhat visceral. Usually that's pretty awesome, but sometimes it can be a bit much.

 

Cant really remember where I saw it but for some it did not last, im sure it depends how good of a job you do. With the diff brace the bushing isn't loaded as much anymore so pretty much a permanent fix without added NVH.

Yup you are 100% correct, since the Diff brace is solid and the bushing is soft most of the load is now going through the brace. At first I was skeptical about using a brace because of that but since its been on the market for a bit now without any reported major issues seems like its not a big deal. Just need to make sure you torque your bolts correctly.

 

I think my calculations for filter size were a little off.



alls well that ends well though.

 

Took a trip to the suburbs, so naturally packed my 2 buckets. First wash since the deluge of pollen. Also tinkered with my turn signals more to figure why the heck my brake and license plate lights were all blinking when I signaled…

Strongly considering leaving my car out here, to finally sit in a garage. Using the G less and less these days, so probably worth it to stash it away for a while. And keep the battery on a tender, which has been a nagging issue lately

 

I went from blown bushing (1-2 shift had a very bad clunk, rear end hopped and caused traction control to come on) > epoxy fix (slight clunk, no tcs) > diff brace (no clunk, no TCS) > diff brace w/ poly bushings (didn't really notice much difference.

So my suggestion to you would be to epoxy + diff brace. The bushing was an absolute PITA job and I have a lift.

 

The Bell racing diff brace didn't fit with my exhaust, but I want to give the Z1 version a chance. But yes that rear bushing is one of the hardest jobs I've done, and easily the most bruised I ended up lol.

 

Doing the Subframe bushing on a Sedan is definitely a PITA, would be easier to just drop the sub frame than doing it on the car

 

That's what I was hoping to hear!

 

I work with T clamps left and right.
LEFT AND RIGHT!!!!!!! And look at this.....

All this time, all the clamps, all of the brackets made...

And it's not like you dont get 2 inches of thread extra per clamp once tightened that you purposefully cut for looks and attach a bracket to the pipe because it hangs

As simple as this is thank you for the trick!

 

You used the t-clamp bolt to connect the frame bracket? That's pretty clever.

 

That's actually MY car, with the new 2.75 CAI...

@BULL Using T-bolts for support as well as clamping is pretty common in aerospace.

 

Sprayed some cerakote on my intake tubes.

 

Another oil report:

 

now we need an engine bay shot I am a fan of less polished metal!

Nice report! I think after another clean one you can easily do 5k OCI with T6.

What was the oil you used before?

 

Why 5k specifically?

All tests in screenshot are same oil.