which one would you get? Warranty questions too
Never hurts to ask. If they think you're serious, they'll negotiate.
Is $28 OTD your ceiling? Considering you were looking at older, less expensive options, it's a difficult pill to swallow going up-price. Believe me, I know. I was looking for a 2009 before I found this 2011. However, I have ZERO regrets. None.
Also, sometimes dealerships have more incentive to negotiate if you go through them for financing.
Is $28 OTD your ceiling? Considering you were looking at older, less expensive options, it's a difficult pill to swallow going up-price. Believe me, I know. I was looking for a 2009 before I found this 2011. However, I have ZERO regrets. None.
Also, sometimes dealerships have more incentive to negotiate if you go through them for financing.
Do you guys think it's worth it to go up another $8k just for a 2012 with about 20k miles less?
As for one against the other... it depends entirely one how long you expect to keep the car, and what depreciated value you expect to work with at that point to move into *next car*. If you keep your car for another 6-8 years, then it doesn't matter. Either one is fine.
always work the OTD price, which is the total price for the car being purchased - independent of trade. it sounds like the dealer just did the simple math of the list price + taxes/fees. no dealing going on there, just a quick calculation.
now is when the negotiations start. i doubt you're gonna get it for $28k OTD, unless they are really motivated. that would be ~$4500 off which is a big discount on a low mile CPO unit. not sure what your tax rate is. i'd start at ~$29k OTD and probably settle at $30k as my cap, but hopefully $29.5k. that's just me, since i'm used to Canadian pricing which is brutal compared to you yanks.
or you could explore waiving the CPO aspect which is a risk to the dealer. non-CPO is less risk so they could drop the purchase price since you assume their risk. then start talking trades.
if it was me, considering how "new" the car is and how much regular warranty is remaining, i would seriously consider negotiating non-CPO pricing. i'll take $1-2k off list price knowing the minimal risk.
when i bought my '04 6MT G35 sedan in '06, they were asking $30k list. i offered $29k all-in, they said they would not make any money - we have 12% tax rate here. after a bunch of back and forth i got it at $30k all-in cash (bank draft). that actual vehicle price before tax was $26,300. i still had 2 yrs bumper to bumper and 4 more years powertrain so i had no concerns for CPO inclusions.
now is when the negotiations start. i doubt you're gonna get it for $28k OTD, unless they are really motivated. that would be ~$4500 off which is a big discount on a low mile CPO unit. not sure what your tax rate is. i'd start at ~$29k OTD and probably settle at $30k as my cap, but hopefully $29.5k. that's just me, since i'm used to Canadian pricing which is brutal compared to you yanks.
or you could explore waiving the CPO aspect which is a risk to the dealer. non-CPO is less risk so they could drop the purchase price since you assume their risk. then start talking trades.
if it was me, considering how "new" the car is and how much regular warranty is remaining, i would seriously consider negotiating non-CPO pricing. i'll take $1-2k off list price knowing the minimal risk.
when i bought my '04 6MT G35 sedan in '06, they were asking $30k list. i offered $29k all-in, they said they would not make any money - we have 12% tax rate here. after a bunch of back and forth i got it at $30k all-in cash (bank draft). that actual vehicle price before tax was $26,300. i still had 2 yrs bumper to bumper and 4 more years powertrain so i had no concerns for CPO inclusions.
Last edited by canucklehead; Feb 7, 2014 at 12:11 PM.
I would instead focus on the price of the car instead of the OTD price. It isnt hard to back into the OTD price since you should know your tax rate and the fees the dealer is charging. Take a calculator

I do agree though, that $28 out the door is probably a stretch....
Good point. In NY, that $5000 trade would be a $400 savings in tax, on average... depending on County/City tax.
$30K OTD would be a fantastic price for a 2 year old 6MT Sedan that only has 15K miles on it. Seems that way to me.
I would lean toward the 2010 from Florida.
Florida would normally have a lot less stop and go traffic then NY, so the clutch should be in better shape.
The roads in Florida are a lot smoother so less wear and tear on the car.
They don't salt the roads in Florida.
That doesn't mean that the NY car isn't as good or a better deal.
How much warranty is left on the 2010's? I have a 2010 and the warranty runs out the first week of March.
I have had zero problems in the 4 years that I have owned my G37.
Tom
Florida would normally have a lot less stop and go traffic then NY, so the clutch should be in better shape.
The roads in Florida are a lot smoother so less wear and tear on the car.
They don't salt the roads in Florida.
That doesn't mean that the NY car isn't as good or a better deal.
How much warranty is left on the 2010's? I have a 2010 and the warranty runs out the first week of March.
I have had zero problems in the 4 years that I have owned my G37.
Tom


Telcoman
no go.
went to dealer, test drove and everything was good.
the guy wouldn't budge from 32,500 OTD. That's with tax included.
I told him $30 otd, but wouldn't budge. I was leaving and he said 32,000.
I told him I'll keep looking. Guess I'll try again later when its end of the month and they just got the car as well....
went to dealer, test drove and everything was good.
the guy wouldn't budge from 32,500 OTD. That's with tax included.
I told him $30 otd, but wouldn't budge. I was leaving and he said 32,000.
I told him I'll keep looking. Guess I'll try again later when its end of the month and they just got the car as well....
Last edited by andyl9063; Feb 7, 2014 at 07:44 PM.
Fair enough. If you haven't found something in a couple weeks check back with them, see if they'll move. You never know...in the meantime check scouting out your options!
no go.
went to dealer, test drove and everything was good.
the guy wouldn't budge from 32,500 OTD. That's with tax included.
I told him $30 otd, but wouldn't budge. I was leaving and he said 32,000.
I told him I'll keep looking. Guess I'll try again later when its end of the month and they just got the car as well....
went to dealer, test drove and everything was good.
the guy wouldn't budge from 32,500 OTD. That's with tax included.
I told him $30 otd, but wouldn't budge. I was leaving and he said 32,000.
I told him I'll keep looking. Guess I'll try again later when its end of the month and they just got the car as well....
Why didn't you counter with $30,500?
no go.
went to dealer, test drove and everything was good.
the guy wouldn't budge from 32,500 OTD. That's with tax included.
I told him $30 otd, but wouldn't budge. I was leaving and he said 32,000.
I told him I'll keep looking. Guess I'll try again later when its end of the month and they just got the car as well....
went to dealer, test drove and everything was good.
the guy wouldn't budge from 32,500 OTD. That's with tax included.
I told him $30 otd, but wouldn't budge. I was leaving and he said 32,000.
I told him I'll keep looking. Guess I'll try again later when its end of the month and they just got the car as well....
At a new car dealership, the Sedan 6MT is a very difficult car to sell on the lot to local buyers and walk-ins. People don't know the car, and don't expect a 6MT in a G Sedan, particularly if you're in an area that has a snowy winter.
And not for nothing, but I think $30k asking price is reasonable enough as is. Keep your eye on it and see what happens in 2 or 3 weeks.
And not for nothing, but I think $30k asking price is reasonable enough as is. Keep your eye on it and see what happens in 2 or 3 weeks.
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