When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Same. I've got the Akebono Sport ASP1346 and ASP1347 on my car, with the Z1 two-piece rotors, OEM Sport calipers and OEM brake lines. The car's brakes are positively heroic... which is hyperbole for me saying I like them.
Negatives? They squeal like a frightened pig first thing out of the garage and down the driveway. Soon as I use them once or twice, they go silent. But on a really quiet morning, it's pretty darn embarrassing.
Im 70% confident that squealing issues is due to hardware. Never believed in the OEM shims which I have proved in my own as well as heard it from others as well. Unless it was squealing from the start of the brakes then a set of OEM shims, straight and cleaned pins and some decent heavy duty brake grease will set you right.
So apparently my or my wife's keys got squished in just the right way to put all 4 windows down for a few lovely hours of rain.
Seats seem OK after being dried off, my spider mats caught most of the rain and the carpet was dry. I'm going to put the crystal kitty litter in a lingerie bag back in the car to get rid of residual dampness, and when I had the hurricane flood the interior I painted the floor pan with bedliner before reinstalling carpet and interior so I shouldn't get rust or anything like that.
Question is: is the auto-window-down by fob button something that can be disabled?
This is controlled by the BCM and it's highly unlikely you'll be able to do so. However, in Franks video what you see is everything the Radio/Navigation unit handles. There may be a way to access BCM parameters and saved settings. 2008-2015 BCMs across NIssan/Infiniti seem to be identical on the outside so there is some hope that in reading of these settings there might be an option to enable/disable this.
If im not mistaken, Keyless antenna receives the command, sends it to the BCM, BCM communicates to the window switch via serial wire and switch lowers the windows.
Need some help with break pad selection. Planned to spend $45 on the front set only to find out there are a lot of options for that price.
What I'm looking for is a ceramic or ceramic blend for a daily driver automatic, heavy traffic. I'll be doing wheel bearings, resurfaced rotors, new lug nuts and lastly pads.
My 2nd set was Centric that lasted 1 year, 3rd set was another Centric that lasted 1 week before brake shake. I believe my wheel bearings are done due to spacers. So there is the worry that the new brakes will take a crap like this past set which is why Im doing bearing assembly.
I'm turning more and more into a believer that spacers will ruin the car over time. I wonder if it's just the spacer itself or anything wider than oem will inevitability do this.
Thanks in advance (Rockauto list)
I'm running StopTech (Centric performance brand) 308 series and have never had any issues over the past 2 years:
My mechanic didn't like the shims they provided, so he reused the ones from the OEM brakes. At 2 years, I'm sitting at 5mm-7mm. Seems like reasonable wear and the dust is minimal and braking as good or better than stock.
If you're on a super budget, Metal Masters (PBR, also Axxis and Repco listings) are good autocross pads that are cheap, but they wear fast and are noisy and dusty.
Clean, stopping bite, high heat braking - pick any 1.
Need some help with break pad selection. Planned to spend $45 on the front set only to find out there are a lot of options for that price.
What I'm looking for is a ceramic or ceramic blend for a daily driver automatic, heavy traffic. I'll be doing wheel bearings, resurfaced rotors, new lug nuts and lastly pads.
My 2nd set was Centric that lasted 1 year, 3rd set was another Centric that lasted 1 week before brake shake. I believe my wheel bearings are done due to spacers. So there is the worry that the new brakes will take a crap like this past set which is why Im doing bearing assembly.
I'm turning more and more into a believer that spacers will ruin the car over time. I wonder if it's just the spacer itself or anything wider than oem will inevitability do this.
Thanks in advance (Rockauto list)
I realize that these weren't on your list, but I've been running Hawk HPS pads for over 10 years now and combined with the Racing Brake 2-Pc Rotors (plus braided lines and ATE Brake Fluid) the brakes feel even better than the Brembos in my Porsche.
the brakes feel even better than the Brembos in my Porsche.
Way to flex on us. What Porsche do you have?
After upgrading the base brakes to the Akebono calipers, with EBC pads, stainless lines, and new rotors I was pleasantly surprised by how damn good these brakes felt.
I was doing some research to see what my car was worth on KBB and in classifieds and was pleasantly surprised. I have a 2013 G37X with 56,000 miles on it and it looks like private party values are in the $14-16K range. I started looking to see if the BMW 3 I was considering at the time would be more or less and found that a same year 328i Xdrive with the same miles is only worth about $9-12K. Seems like a big difference and left me wondering why... reliability is probably one? Any thoughts?
I was doing some research to see what my car was worth on KBB and in classifieds and was pleasantly surprised. I have a 2013 G37X with 56,000 miles on it and it looks like private party values are in the $14-16K range. I started looking to see if the BMW 3 I was considering at the time would be more or less and found that a same year 328i Xdrive with the same miles is only worth about $9-12K. Seems like a big difference and left me wondering why... reliability is probably one? Any thoughts?
Reliability and power are much lower on that 328 than the G
335 seems to be lower too, but not by much. I'm hoping to keep this one for a while longer, but I know what to look for in my next car, haha.
After working on an N54 all summer just to have a turbo seal blow on out on a low-mile car I wouldn't recommend a 335 unless you don't mind doing all the work yourself. They have crazy power potential that is, after addressing a long list of maintenance items that WILL go bad a lot quicker than you'd expect if you start making any power. Lots of potential if you are lucky and strong enough LOL
Originally Posted by MetsFan
I was doing some research to see what my car was worth on KBB and in classifieds and was pleasantly surprised. I have a 2013 G37X with 56,000 miles on it and it looks like private party values are in the $14-16K range. I started looking to see if the BMW 3 I was considering at the time would be more or less and found that a same year 328i Xdrive with the same miles is only worth about $9-12K. Seems like a big difference and left me wondering why... reliability is probably one? Any thoughts?
Reliability is not there, power is not there, parts are expensive, and they are a PITA to work on. The G is a much better car than a 328 in my opinion.
Has anyone used Z1 Motorsports for any maintenance before, mainly big jobs? Got a parts quote from them today and inquired about labor through them. They responded that they are no longer performing service/maintenance in order to focus on performance only. I was surprised.
What Porsche do you have?
