Rhino Ramps have a 17 degree incline angle. Race ramps can be had with as little as 7 degree incline and can be purchased much longer so that's never an issue.

 

I'm lowered with a lip and I use Rhino Ramps with a 1" or so plank to avoid scraping.

 

Cool, thanks, rks.

How so? Edge of the ramp on the plank, or butted up to it? (Don't tell my old Geometry teacher I asked this dumb question.)

 

They are 1" thick, wide as the ramp, and about 18" long. I place them against the ramp approach and I guess it reduces the approach angle enough. (Not sure if that makes any sense.)

 

You can also make your own ramps at any approach angle from stacked pieces of cut OSB. Just space them further apart for lower approach angles. Won't be home for about 10 days but can shoot some pics when I get back. Here's the general idea but I use many more pieces of 3/8" OSB for a much smoother incline. Doesn't take up much space since you can stand them on end inverted from each other for about a 10"x12" footprint.

 

Thank you, B. That's certainly more appealing than a $300 ramp.

And I've just the right friend with all the tools and love of wood-working. Not that this is fine cabinetry or anything of the kind, but still... good excuse for a weekend project with my buddy.

 

I personally would change that design slightly. I would make the ramps with a slight angle on the backside to really drive the force of the car downward. I could see at that severe 90 angle that the ramps might want to try and flip backwards, especially on an imperfect surface with the car fully pulled up to the ramp stop. Sorry for the terrible diagram.


key: _______ = wood planks



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Those $300 ramps are very well constructed and sturdy but I'd definitely trust stacked and secured wood over those cheapy plastic or pressed thin gauge steel ramps for sure

 

Exact copy of the AE front lip without question

 

Yep. Good thinking. Nice diagram, too.

 

Thanks for that, I've used mine w/ the direct 90 degree dropoff for a couple years without issue (although when I'm on the top the very front of the ramp will rise about a quarter inch so there is some force pushing te ramp back a bit), I need to take them apart and make them w/ a lower rise angle (my lip rubs a bit when I use them so I think I'll take your design plan. I'll post some pics when I get them constructed.

 

That much wood must be incredibly heavy and cumbersome to drag around. (That's what she said!). I have the Rhino Ramps and just built a smaller wooden "step" ramp to increase the height of the front end getting onto the Rhino Ramps. They're also useful for driving onto in order to gain height to get a jack under the car.

 

No doubt it's heavy, but doesn't take up much room and I only have to drag them out 5-6x a year so not a big deal. If I was working on the underside of my vehicles every weekend then yes I'd want something a bit less weighty. I'm guessing they're in the 50-60 pound range.

 

No issues man, everyone has the right have to their opinion, my point was based purely on my experience with work done my 370z before and now the G lots of new designs which people still using on 370z and so many for G. They did three lips, two spoilers, a bumper and side skirts in one go and all people see is one lip which was a copy from the beginning.

Clearance is pretty good but im dropped on KW so might be a bit different then people running on springs. One thing is there current lip clearance is more then the Spec M which I had when car was black as that lip curves up in the middle but sides were a bit low.

 

Interesting thread, I agree that the lip the OP posted is a nice, subtle option for those thinking the OEM "chin" spoiler is too aggressive for their style (myself included).

Anyone get a quote for shipping? I'd image it's pricey considering CS's location.

Looking forward to more info/pics! (might be the guinea pig depending on how the thread goes)
Also, thanks for the photos docaam love what you've done to your car man