Mods for 2010 G37 S Sedan
Did all that with my 05 coupe...now that all these cars are good for the 13s stock...no need. I lol when I saw a 2010 G37S...all stocked...all loaded with spare and everything....run like 13.6 at 105 or something in Road and Track's may shoot out...it was a 6 spd, but that should not matter anymore.
I swore to myself when I got this car 3 weeks ago that I'd hold off on mods for awhile as this car is plenty fast stock, but I've already installed HFCs and have a Fast Intentions exhaust on order. lol Last thing I'll do is an R2c system and maybe a GTSpec FSTB. The mod bug never dies. heh
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Ok, so finally I get a %^&*( second to follow up. Sorry for the Delay.
On Tuesday Night I installed the Hotckiss Front Sway Bar and the R2C CAI on my 2010 G37S Sedan. The sway bar was a breeze. Much easier than even on my coupe as the end links are easier to deal with now. That took two seconds and looks sweet. The R2C was a nightmare to install. I uninstalled the OEM dual intakes in about 5 mins and then got to assembling/installing the R2C and the directions were useless and there were several small little details like the orientation of the brackets and the reusing of the OEM MAF wire loom clips or how to route and use the PCV hoses that simply were not explained at all and every picture was a joke in a smeared black and white. So I went on line, Googled R2C installs, and there was a great 370Z install I found that showed me what I needed to know...then I wrapped that up, but only b/c I had bought extra hose for my 05 Coupe b/c you needed to cut a hose when using the Motordyne Intake stuff and luckily I kept all that so I could modify one of the hoses and use it to work on the driver's side, otherwise the PVC hose would not be long enough to fit right. I emailed R2C all of this...in bulleted detail and they were great in saying they would modify the instructions and look into including more hose clamps to replace the compression clamps the OEM hoses use, etc...very good and mature in their responses. They will update me as they make changes too. After I buttoned it all up I took the car for a ride and under normal driving you can't hear a thing...which is GREAT...and then when you get on it...WOW...I almost $hit myself lol at how throaty it sounds compared to the CAIs I had on my other two previous G's. Definitely an A+++ on Sound and looks once installed. Very happy with the end result. The means just sucked. :-)
On Tuesday Night I installed the Hotckiss Front Sway Bar and the R2C CAI on my 2010 G37S Sedan. The sway bar was a breeze. Much easier than even on my coupe as the end links are easier to deal with now. That took two seconds and looks sweet. The R2C was a nightmare to install. I uninstalled the OEM dual intakes in about 5 mins and then got to assembling/installing the R2C and the directions were useless and there were several small little details like the orientation of the brackets and the reusing of the OEM MAF wire loom clips or how to route and use the PCV hoses that simply were not explained at all and every picture was a joke in a smeared black and white. So I went on line, Googled R2C installs, and there was a great 370Z install I found that showed me what I needed to know...then I wrapped that up, but only b/c I had bought extra hose for my 05 Coupe b/c you needed to cut a hose when using the Motordyne Intake stuff and luckily I kept all that so I could modify one of the hoses and use it to work on the driver's side, otherwise the PVC hose would not be long enough to fit right. I emailed R2C all of this...in bulleted detail and they were great in saying they would modify the instructions and look into including more hose clamps to replace the compression clamps the OEM hoses use, etc...very good and mature in their responses. They will update me as they make changes too. After I buttoned it all up I took the car for a ride and under normal driving you can't hear a thing...which is GREAT...and then when you get on it...WOW...I almost $hit myself lol at how throaty it sounds compared to the CAIs I had on my other two previous G's. Definitely an A+++ on Sound and looks once installed. Very happy with the end result. The means just sucked. :-)
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I had a feeling it was the hoses (or lack of) and instructions. lol
But I knew they'd back it all up! Glad that was all taken care of... even if it's for future customers!
P.S. The P2A03 code I got with the HFCs came back. So I did some digging around. Someone on here suggested doing a "mixture ratio self-learning value clear" which I found on page 23 here:
http://www.teejnut.com/public/TJ/Z34..._Manual/EC.pdf
I just did it an hour ago, so I won't know if it's worked for another few days.
What this does is resets the a/f ratio parameters to zero, in effect, allowing the ECU to re-learn everything. Hopefully this works, since, as far as the ECU is concerned, I'm back to stock now with the HFCs installed. I'll be crossing my fingers. lol
But I knew they'd back it all up! Glad that was all taken care of... even if it's for future customers!
P.S. The P2A03 code I got with the HFCs came back. So I did some digging around. Someone on here suggested doing a "mixture ratio self-learning value clear" which I found on page 23 here:
http://www.teejnut.com/public/TJ/Z34..._Manual/EC.pdf
I just did it an hour ago, so I won't know if it's worked for another few days.
What this does is resets the a/f ratio parameters to zero, in effect, allowing the ECU to re-learn everything. Hopefully this works, since, as far as the ECU is concerned, I'm back to stock now with the HFCs installed. I'll be crossing my fingers. lol
Yeah I did get non-foulers. I seem to always have the worst luck with this kinda stuff. lol
I have a 2nd set of n-fs that I'll try if that latest reset trick doesn't end up working.
And I am very doubtful of a header-to-HFC leak at the flange. So we will see I guess!
I have a 2nd set of n-fs that I'll try if that latest reset trick doesn't end up working.
And I am very doubtful of a header-to-HFC leak at the flange. So we will see I guess!
I thought the Front Strut Tower Braces (I assume that's what a FSTB is ha ha) didn't do crap on these cars vs the sway bars?
If there is any loss of low end torque I have not noticed it, but I have not had the time and weather to notice either.
Point of reference...I just installed my Ground Wire Kit that I had from my last two Gs. I took each connector end to the grinding wheel to clean off any $hit and then I even ground down some of the round heads to better fit on this 2010...and I followed the Black Betty
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...tallation.html
Instructions and I think I got it all done...I did not have what they appear to use as a Y-splitter Wire that goes from the negative terminal on the battery out to both the Drivers and passenger side Throttle bodies, but I just used one wire from the driver's side back to the passenger side and then another from the same TB bolt on the passenger side back to the negative terminal on the battery. I also hogged out a hold that I filed/painted and installed a nice grommet that holds both wires coming off the battery rather than jam them under the other loom. I had one wire left, but didn't see anywhere else to use, oh and I used a short one to go from the factory front mount (right in the middle) to the passenger side engine bolt already used in step 2 of Betty's instructions.
So anyway, it's wet out here in MA, but I took the car out on a straight away and in manual mode I hammered it in 2nd and then up-shifted, and while the GD wheels were still breaking loose shifting into 4th my observation was that the up-shifts were much more immediate and smooth vs. the pathetic lag times it had before.
I really noticed the lag after installing the Tanabe and R2C b/c of some spirited driving...whether it was the paddles or the shifter...the up-shifts were pathetic...as in at least another 200 rpms clicked off b/f it actually engaged the next gear. Hopefully that's gone now...but can't really tell for sure until it's dry.
I reprogrammed the 4 windows to auto up and down and other than that I need to do my seat memories, but the radio presets stayed...thank God!
Is there anywhere else people are grounding to now a days?
If there is any loss of low end torque I have not noticed it, but I have not had the time and weather to notice either.
Point of reference...I just installed my Ground Wire Kit that I had from my last two Gs. I took each connector end to the grinding wheel to clean off any $hit and then I even ground down some of the round heads to better fit on this 2010...and I followed the Black Betty
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...tallation.html
Instructions and I think I got it all done...I did not have what they appear to use as a Y-splitter Wire that goes from the negative terminal on the battery out to both the Drivers and passenger side Throttle bodies, but I just used one wire from the driver's side back to the passenger side and then another from the same TB bolt on the passenger side back to the negative terminal on the battery. I also hogged out a hold that I filed/painted and installed a nice grommet that holds both wires coming off the battery rather than jam them under the other loom. I had one wire left, but didn't see anywhere else to use, oh and I used a short one to go from the factory front mount (right in the middle) to the passenger side engine bolt already used in step 2 of Betty's instructions.
So anyway, it's wet out here in MA, but I took the car out on a straight away and in manual mode I hammered it in 2nd and then up-shifted, and while the GD wheels were still breaking loose shifting into 4th my observation was that the up-shifts were much more immediate and smooth vs. the pathetic lag times it had before.
I really noticed the lag after installing the Tanabe and R2C b/c of some spirited driving...whether it was the paddles or the shifter...the up-shifts were pathetic...as in at least another 200 rpms clicked off b/f it actually engaged the next gear. Hopefully that's gone now...but can't really tell for sure until it's dry.
I reprogrammed the 4 windows to auto up and down and other than that I need to do my seat memories, but the radio presets stayed...thank God!
Is there anywhere else people are grounding to now a days?
Just an FYI intakes for 07-08 G35 Sedan might not be a DIRECT fit on 09-10 G37 sedan. It's because the PCV hoses are different on the G37.
I know this because I tried to install my old K&N short ram (for 07-08 G35) on my 2010. I had to cut the stock hose shorter. Not a big deal though.
I know this because I tried to install my old K&N short ram (for 07-08 G35) on my 2010. I had to cut the stock hose shorter. Not a big deal though.
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Has anyone installed the injen CAI on their 2010 37x? I don't see why it wouldn't fit, but I don't want to order it without knowing for sure and not being able to return it. I know that the stillen one fits, but haven't seen anything about the injen. Any help would be much appreciated.
I would imagine the Injens would fit. No under-the-hood changes that I'm aware of. You should get the R2cs though. No need to remove the bumper for installation or maintenance of the filters.
Update on the ERZ HFCs. I was throwing P2A03 due to a loose o2 sensor. Specifically the driver's side one. Tightened it up and I'm finally CEL-free. As far as HFCs go, these are definitely the best bang for the $! Don't hesitate to get these!
Update on the ERZ HFCs. I was throwing P2A03 due to a loose o2 sensor. Specifically the driver's side one. Tightened it up and I'm finally CEL-free. As far as HFCs go, these are definitely the best bang for the $! Don't hesitate to get these!
Like what? lol
Had a CEL due to a loose o2 sensor. Tightened it up, and I'm good to go!
There is definitely rasp, especially when the car is still cold, but it quiets down after a few minutes of driving around.
Butt dyno highly approves!
I'll get a vid in another week or to. I want them to break in a bit more.
So, if anyone wants HFCs, and is aware of the rasp, these are definitely a great deal! ERZ was very accommodating throughout the whole process.
I have the FI CBE on order, so I'll do a before/after of that...
Had a CEL due to a loose o2 sensor. Tightened it up, and I'm good to go!
There is definitely rasp, especially when the car is still cold, but it quiets down after a few minutes of driving around.
Butt dyno highly approves!
I'll get a vid in another week or to. I want them to break in a bit more.
So, if anyone wants HFCs, and is aware of the rasp, these are definitely a great deal! ERZ was very accommodating throughout the whole process.
I have the FI CBE on order, so I'll do a before/after of that...
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Since I have the Tanabes, this is what my 09 should sound like with HFCs.
YouTube - Tanabe + BERK hfc drive off.
Now sure what I think about it...
On the ERZ website now...ready to pull the plug...they're back ordered till 5/20...lol.
YouTube - Tanabe + BERK hfc drive off.
Now sure what I think about it...
On the ERZ website now...ready to pull the plug...they're back ordered till 5/20...lol.
Damn I guess word has gotten out! lol
it's all up to you of course! Just keep in mind that the first intake/exhaust mod for these cars is the one you will see the most gains with.
it's all up to you of course! Just keep in mind that the first intake/exhaust mod for these cars is the one you will see the most gains with.
