Miles Per Gallon Feedback
I saw one from Quebek actually STOP in the middle of I75 Tuesday evening. STOPPED IN A 70mph highway! Can't run em over or kill em. They are like an endangered species here. Mess with them and you'll do Fed time.
City 18.3 MPG Highway 26.7 MPG.... Then I put the Typhoons on and it has dropped a bit to 17.1 City, 25 Highway..... I need to get the car tuned I believe. Lauderdale has sick traffic this time a year though. Canadians are back for there 4 month "holiday". Stop and go traffic even on the highways....
Thats hilarious! Really, I laughed about that. Never thought of it from that perspective. Enjoy your open roads!
I saw one from Quebek actually STOP in the middle of I75 Tuesday evening. STOPPED IN A 70mph highway! Can't run em over or kill em. They are like an endangered species here. Mess with them and you'll do Fed time.
I saw one from Quebek actually STOP in the middle of I75 Tuesday evening. STOPPED IN A 70mph highway! Can't run em over or kill em. They are like an endangered species here. Mess with them and you'll do Fed time.
Thats a pretty big change.
Did you put on winter tires and check they are properly inflated. A 21% drop is too much.
I go from my summer wheel&tire to the lighter OEM Sport wheel with winter tires and notice almost no difference.
9 reasons your winter fuel economy bites
1. More idling
This should be a no-brainer, yet parked idling cars are a common sight in cold weather. Resist the temptation to idle your car to warm it up. An idling engine gets 0 mpg. Consider also that idling the engine does nothing to warm up the tires and drivetrain.
Even in the coldest weather, you can begin driving after 30 seconds from a cold start - keep speeds low/moderate and use gentle acceleration until the temperature gauge starts to climb (source).
2. Low tire pressure
Of course you're smart enough to keep up your tire pressure as the temperature drops, right? A 10-degree (F) change in ambient temperature equates to a 1 psi change in tire pressure (source). Fuel economy declines 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop (source).
3. Increased rolling resistance
Even if you're completely attentive to proper tire pressure, cold ambient temperatures will still cause your tires to return worse mileage. That's because a tire's shape isn't completely round - the sidewall bulges out at the bottom, and where the tread meets the road the small contact patch is actually flat. As the tire rotates, it constantly deforms to this shape, and this deformation requires more energy when the rubber is cold and hard. Rolling resistance at 0 degrees F is 20% greater than at 80 degrees (source 1, source 2).
4. Crappy road conditions
It's increased rolling resistance of another kind: driving through slush and snow. And then there's its wasteful polar (no pun intended) opposite: no friction at all! (A.K.A. wheelspin on ice.)
5. Lower average engine temperature
In the winter, an engine takes longer to reach operating temperature and cools off faster when shut off. Since the engine management system orders up a richer mixture when cold (proportionately more fuel in the air/fuel combination), more fuel is being burned overall.
A block heater can offset this problem (improving fuel economy by 10% in sub-zero conditions - source), as can garage parking, and combining trips (to minimize the number of cold/hot cycles).
Also related...
6. Higher average lubricant viscosity
Engine oil thickens as it cools. So does transmission and differential fluids and even bearing grease. Significantly more energy is needed to overcome the added drag these cold lubricants cause.
Using synthetic fluids can address this problem, since their viscosity changes less at extreme temperatures than traditional mineral fluids.
7. Weaker gasoline
Gasoline doesn't vaporize readily at very cold temperatures. So oil companies formulate fuel differently for cold-weather markets in the winter. Unfortunately, the changes that provide better cold vaporization characteristics also result in less available energy for combustion. You won't get as far on a liter of winter gas as you will on a liter of summer gas. (Source.)
8. Higher electrical loads
In colder temps, you use electrical accessories more often:
- lights (in higher lattitudes it's darker in the winter)
- rear window defroster (because it's easier than using the ice scraper, right?)
- heater blower motor (I don't have a/c, so this isn't balanced out during warm conditions); heated seats/mirrors
- windshield washer pump (because it's easier than using the ice scraper, right? And for frequently cleaning off dirty road spray.)
9. More aerodynamic drag
No, I'm not referring to the layer of snow you're too lazy to brush off the top of the car (though that would hurt mpg too).
A vehicle’s aerodynamic drag is proportional to air density, and the density increases as temperature drops. For every 10 degree F drop in temperature, aerodynamic drag increases by 2% (source).
9 reasons why your winter fuel economy bites! - MetroMPG.com
Did you put on winter tires and check they are properly inflated. A 21% drop is too much.
I go from my summer wheel&tire to the lighter OEM Sport wheel with winter tires and notice almost no difference.
9 reasons your winter fuel economy bites
1. More idling
This should be a no-brainer, yet parked idling cars are a common sight in cold weather. Resist the temptation to idle your car to warm it up. An idling engine gets 0 mpg. Consider also that idling the engine does nothing to warm up the tires and drivetrain.
Even in the coldest weather, you can begin driving after 30 seconds from a cold start - keep speeds low/moderate and use gentle acceleration until the temperature gauge starts to climb (source).
2. Low tire pressure
Of course you're smart enough to keep up your tire pressure as the temperature drops, right? A 10-degree (F) change in ambient temperature equates to a 1 psi change in tire pressure (source). Fuel economy declines 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop (source).
3. Increased rolling resistance
Even if you're completely attentive to proper tire pressure, cold ambient temperatures will still cause your tires to return worse mileage. That's because a tire's shape isn't completely round - the sidewall bulges out at the bottom, and where the tread meets the road the small contact patch is actually flat. As the tire rotates, it constantly deforms to this shape, and this deformation requires more energy when the rubber is cold and hard. Rolling resistance at 0 degrees F is 20% greater than at 80 degrees (source 1, source 2).
4. Crappy road conditions
It's increased rolling resistance of another kind: driving through slush and snow. And then there's its wasteful polar (no pun intended) opposite: no friction at all! (A.K.A. wheelspin on ice.)
5. Lower average engine temperature
In the winter, an engine takes longer to reach operating temperature and cools off faster when shut off. Since the engine management system orders up a richer mixture when cold (proportionately more fuel in the air/fuel combination), more fuel is being burned overall.
A block heater can offset this problem (improving fuel economy by 10% in sub-zero conditions - source), as can garage parking, and combining trips (to minimize the number of cold/hot cycles).
Also related...
6. Higher average lubricant viscosity
Engine oil thickens as it cools. So does transmission and differential fluids and even bearing grease. Significantly more energy is needed to overcome the added drag these cold lubricants cause.
Using synthetic fluids can address this problem, since their viscosity changes less at extreme temperatures than traditional mineral fluids.
7. Weaker gasoline
Gasoline doesn't vaporize readily at very cold temperatures. So oil companies formulate fuel differently for cold-weather markets in the winter. Unfortunately, the changes that provide better cold vaporization characteristics also result in less available energy for combustion. You won't get as far on a liter of winter gas as you will on a liter of summer gas. (Source.)
8. Higher electrical loads
In colder temps, you use electrical accessories more often:
- lights (in higher lattitudes it's darker in the winter)
- rear window defroster (because it's easier than using the ice scraper, right?)
- heater blower motor (I don't have a/c, so this isn't balanced out during warm conditions); heated seats/mirrors
- windshield washer pump (because it's easier than using the ice scraper, right? And for frequently cleaning off dirty road spray.)
9. More aerodynamic drag
No, I'm not referring to the layer of snow you're too lazy to brush off the top of the car (though that would hurt mpg too).
A vehicle’s aerodynamic drag is proportional to air density, and the density increases as temperature drops. For every 10 degree F drop in temperature, aerodynamic drag increases by 2% (source).
9 reasons why your winter fuel economy bites! - MetroMPG.com
Thanks for the info. I will give it a rundown and let me know what i conclude. My last fill had an estimated distance to empty at 563 vs. 630 i would get on a summer day.
One other question. How does the distance to empty know the difference when you fill up in Winter vs. Summer? HOw can it say 570 vs. 630. Does temperature and gas as listed above affect this information?
Thanks
Lots of good data here: http://www.fuelly.com/car/infiniti/g37/sedan
According to my Fuelly logs, the furthest I've gone in my 2010 G37xS on a single tank was 462.7 miles on 18.14 gallons, but ltraingc consistently gets incredible mileage and went 522.4 miles on 17.88 gallons!
Lots of good data here: Infiniti G37 MPG Reports | Fuelly
Lots of good data here: Infiniti G37 MPG Reports | Fuelly
Excellent source for 'real world' fuel mileage stats although it would help if more members accurately tracked their City/Hwy driving ratios.
I can't seem to crack 18mpg with mixed driving. My commute for work involves several stop lights and lowers me down to 15-16mpg. I'm driving pretty conservatively too. The city mileage is awful in this car. I can't even imagine what winter in Minnesota is going to be like for mpg. But I'm just going to forget about it and enjoy it. Screw it. I'm amazed anyone is getting near 30 mpg.
G37S Sedan, 7A, no spoiler.
Daily commute - 13 miles of rural, light city traffic. Cruise set at about 50 MPH. This and daily city driving returns 21 MPG every week. On the interstate cruising around 70 get me between 28-30 MPG, cruising around 80 get me 27-28 MPG.
Daily commute - 13 miles of rural, light city traffic. Cruise set at about 50 MPH. This and daily city driving returns 21 MPG every week. On the interstate cruising around 70 get me between 28-30 MPG, cruising around 80 get me 27-28 MPG.
Ok so I am back from Florida
First tank of gas roughly 450 miles @25.8 mpg averaging 80 mph (The first 70 miles were mixed driving and i reset the mpg when i hit the highway)
Second tank of gas 440 miles @25 mpg averaging 80-90 mph
2009 G37S 7AT 55K. Typhoon Intakes.
If i cruise between 60-70 i can get over 30 mpg but that is just boring. In the city I get pretty low mileage with short commutes. 5-10 miles a day.
First tank of gas roughly 450 miles @25.8 mpg averaging 80 mph (The first 70 miles were mixed driving and i reset the mpg when i hit the highway)
Second tank of gas 440 miles @25 mpg averaging 80-90 mph
2009 G37S 7AT 55K. Typhoon Intakes.
If i cruise between 60-70 i can get over 30 mpg but that is just boring. In the city I get pretty low mileage with short commutes. 5-10 miles a day.
Ok so I am back from Florida
First tank of gas roughly 450 miles @25.8 mpg averaging 80 mph (The first 70 miles were mixed driving and i reset the mpg when i hit the highway)
Second tank of gas 440 miles @25 mpg averaging 80-90 mph
2009 G37S 7AT 55K. Typhoon Intakes.
If i cruise between 60-70 i can get over 30 mpg but that is just boring. In the city I get pretty low mileage with short commutes. 5-10 miles a day.
First tank of gas roughly 450 miles @25.8 mpg averaging 80 mph (The first 70 miles were mixed driving and i reset the mpg when i hit the highway)
Second tank of gas 440 miles @25 mpg averaging 80-90 mph
2009 G37S 7AT 55K. Typhoon Intakes.
If i cruise between 60-70 i can get over 30 mpg but that is just boring. In the city I get pretty low mileage with short commutes. 5-10 miles a day.
Best MPG on a tankful on the way down was between Ashland, Va and Florence, SC. 312 miles used 12.113 gallons for 25.757 MPG
Best MPG on a tankful on the return trip was between St. Mary, Ga. Exit 1 on I 95 and Dillon, SC.( a large Harbor Freight warehouse and retail store is here) 303 miles and used 11.104 gallons for 27.29 MPG
All on regular 87 octane and never went more than 5 MPH over the speed limit. My WAZE app kept announcing lots of police ahead.
Telcoman








