I say go with the S cuase you regret it if you get the non-S

 

My stock brakes faded less than 10 mins into the session, what are you talking about Mike

 

Exactly, They did a follow up and changed everything but the calipers and still had the failure..with the optional R pads. They are the same brakes as the 370 so they should have the same issues. There are few brakes on cars that really can take track use...racing is hard on all equipment. Race brakes won't work well on the street because they work at a higher temp and therefore increase normal stopping distances.

As far as tires I'd never say buy cheap light tires. Real 1-piece forged tires are super expensive. We tend to think our crappy wheels we buy are actually race tested..they are not. And considering most will tell you if you race with 20" tires anyway you're not really a racer.

As I said, when I had a Twin Turbo 350Z i had the stock wheels and when I went to 20s it was a huge difference in the feel of acceleration. Does that equate anything to cornering? No, of course not, but wheels are the heaviest and farthest from the engine and therefore require the most torque to rotate. So they will make the biggest noticeable difference in performance out there.

If you get a 6MT (which I recommend anyway) you don't have the option.....and you can sell those parts anyway and make money toward different stuff.

 

I'm sorry, but you just lost all credibility here. Time to separate some fact from fiction.

Race brakes not working well on the street? I've daily driven with race pads on for years. The only tradeoff is cost and noise. A cold race pad will not have the mu of a hot race pad its in optimal temperature range, but it will still have more bite than a street pad. For example, a street pad may have a mu of 0.35 across it's temperature range of 0-600F A race pad may have a mu of 0.45 from 0-300F, 0.55 from 300-600F, and 0.60 from 600-900F, and 0.65 from 900-2000F, and then go back down from there. Note that AT ALL TIMES, the race pad has more mu. Here's a quick reference for you. andrew-racing.com/file/630-Hawk+compound+comparison+chart.pdf

What do you consider a "race tested" rim? RPF1s are one of the best choices you can make for wheels. They're light, and they're cheap, and are TUV, JWL, and VIA. They're not forged. Do you understand the difference between weight, strength, and rigidity? Street driving is far harder on a rim than driving on a track. There are no potholes on track, and hitting a curb is still hitting a curb.

Wheels being furthest from the engine? Heaviest and requiring the most torque to rotate? I think you forgot the chassis itself. I'm sorry your car didn't make enough torque for you to do a wheelie, but the chassis itself is also rotating. You just didn't have enough grip and/or torque to actually get a noticeable rotation. You'd have a lower ET at the drag strip by getting better drag tires than with lighter rims. Easily.


Stop regurgitating information you read on the internet, and provide either real results or personal experience. The point of this post is, the OP is trying to determine what is more cost effective, and you're just telling him to buy stuff he doesn't need.

 

You should see what I did to Danny's brakes

 

[quote=Beer Magazine;3361815]. And considering most will tell you if you race with 20" tires anyway you're not really a racer. /quote]

This so hard haha.

That brake issue is a little outside my scope. The speeds that Z were going were far and above what I expect from from my races, at least without altering the entire setup of my car prior which is something I reserve for our teams actual RACE cars rather than I track weekend car which is what this is.

There won't be any roll cage, Racing slicks, toe hooks, kill-switches or anything like that. I'm basically tuning up a dealership vehicle, taking it to the track and running for time to get nods and murmers of approval from buys in sunglasses leaning on the hoods of camaros and corvettes.

If that doesn't put it in perspective consider this...I'll probably be drinking beer out of a cooler in between laps...

I'm sorry I didn't clear this up for you guys, Sometime sI like to listen to ou guys remonstrate on racing theory so I forget what I asked in the first place

 

Just curious, so you're looking to get an automatic?

 

Stock tow hook ftw.

 

I guess you're smart. I'm not looking anything up online. Somehow physics doesn't apply to you, and what you say is right?

Come on. I can do simply physics experiments for you if you want to get childish.

I'm not debating grip like you are. I'm talking about rotating mass which takes 4x the energy to move than non-rotational weight. Weight reduction anywhere is better than heavy. It's far cheaper to reduce rotating mass of wheels than it is to acid dip a chassis.

So if you want to swing your internet ***** around go ahead. I'll just laugh with you. If you feel the stock parts are good because you wear out brakes...I can't help you.

I'll explain pads to you. Race pads are meant to work at higher temps and constant use. Street brakes work better at lower temps and will stop better because they are made to "panic" stop shorter (and for those cool online stats you like to think I'm looking up). So unless you are really heating up your brakes on the street, race pads aren't ideal..but I guess maybe you live your life 1 street light at at time?

 

[quote=kingdavid;3361864]The article shows the weakness of the brakes. While you may not try to stop from 130-30, repeated 95-30 will produce lots of wear.

And I'll bring the beer for that race day!

 

Of course they do. The flaw here is your understanding of physics.
I test and confirm conservation of energy every weekend I'm at the track.

Perfect example of you bench racing.

I = (M R²)/2

How does that translate to 4x the energy? It's a exponential (aka non-linear) increase.

You don't remember anything from high-school physics do you?

A single stop will raise the surface temperature by hundreds of degrees. Again, tested via pyrometer both at the track and on the street. Have you actually ever ponied up 400+ for a set of race pads? Didn't think so.

Aftermarket calipers will wear out pads just as quickly as stock ones. Unless you mess with brake bias.

garbage in garbage out. You make a stupid argument, and you'll get one back. Tortional rigidity is your friend.

 

Tone it down people

 

[quote=kingdavid;3361864]
After explaining this definately go with a G37S. It will suit you just fine, much better than a base.

 

wow i dont check this for 6 hours and a bomb went off about brakes. i know that the magazines have the same complaints
1. engine oil temp sends it to limp mode
2. brake fade on their track

i have the sport brakes and this is how i upgraded, best bang for my buck i think
1. stainless steel brake lines
2. higher brake fluid temp 500 plus i think or 5DOT idk
3. STILLEN Jhook rotors, i will try to do hawk pads when i replace

 

Yeah. Again, this is a daily driver that I can have some fun with.