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I don't know if the instructions are proprietary or not - so I PM'ed you both. In the meantime, I finally got some time today to video changing my drivers' side tether. Here is a link to the video on YouTube - replacing the headliner tether on my 2010 G37.
After checking with "management" of the forum, it was deemed ok to post the DIY Guide for Removing/Replacing the Headliner for the 'Vert which also includes replacing the tethers that apparently are becoming a issue for these cars. I have attached the .pdf of the guide to this post.
Many thanks to @Jamesptc for sourcing this information and providing the initial link and to the moderators who looked into the viability of making this guide available for all.
Mods, I will leave it up to you whether to sticky this topic or no.
Thanks very much for sharing the info! @Jamesptc your video is nicely detailed. I started looking into the my tethers last night, will have to report back once I've made some progress, hopefully in the coming days. Much appreciated!
@Jamesptc Unless the link/ source has proprietary information, might you be able to post the link for the headliner removal for all 'vert folks to be able to access?
It would not only help all' vert owners, but it would also save them from repeatedly asking for the info. I understand if you are not able/ willing.
I just spliced a parachute cord (purchased at a fabric shop) to the severed cord. It works temporarily, but the plastic clip will not stay in the roof's metal side bracket. My observation is, the plastic clip retention barb is broken off, such that the plastic clip does not protect the cord from being severed by the oval cut out in the metal bracket. I noticed a second cord is starting to fray and its plastic clip will not hold securely to the bracket. Does anyone know where I can buy just the plastic clip?
Instead of replacing the entire tether cord, I spliced an 18" segment of 1/8" diameter, cloth parachute cord to severed end of the tether cord. I used three small nylon tie wraps to secure the splice and covered the splice with a short piece of heat shrink tubing (note: slip the heat shrink tubing over the cord before securing the tie wraps). The splice should be located back from the metal support hole, so as not to interfere with where the cord slips through the oval cut out. I fed the cord through the oval cut out. Then I cut a 1/2" long piece of heavy duty, metal reinforced, plastic trim (smallest piece in a multi-size pack, 8451A5, available at McMaster-Carr) and wedged it on to the bottom of the oval cut out, without pinching the cord. Next, I closed the roof and ran the parachute cord through the headliner loop, that connected to the old tether. Using three nylon tie wraps again, I secured the cord. The tether should have a small amount of lot of slack when the roof is closed. Cut away the excess cord and slip a short piece of heat shrink tubing over the tie wraps. I used black heat shrink tubing only for cosmetic reasons.
A couple additional notes: I completed this today, so I am unsure how long my repair will hold. Access to the tether cord and oval cut out is easiest with the roof half way up. I pulled my G out of the garage and let the engine run, so the compressors and pnuematics raising the roof wouldn't decompress and cause the roof to fall. I also used thin, needle nosed pliers to insert the plastic trim and press it into position. Hopefully, my photos help clarify what I did.
Instead of replacing the entire tether cord, I spliced an 18" segment of 1/8" diameter, cloth parachute cord to severed end of the tether cord. I used three small nylon tie wraps to secure the splice and covered the splice with a short piece of heat shrink tubing (note: slip the heat shrink tubing over the cord before securing the tie wraps). The splice should be located back from the metal support hole, so as not to interfere with where the cord slips through the oval cut out. I fed the cord through the oval cut out. Then I cut a 1/2" long piece of heavy duty, metal reinforced, plastic trim (smallest piece in a multi-size pack, 8451A5, available at McMaster-Carr) and wedged it on to the bottom of the oval cut out, without pinching the cord. Next, I closed the roof and ran the parachute cord through the headliner loop, that connected to the old tether. Using three nylon tie wraps again, I secured the cord. The tether should have a small amount of lot of slack when the roof is closed. Cut away the excess cord and slip a short piece of heat shrink tubing over the tie wraps. I used black heat shrink tubing only for cosmetic reasons.
A couple additional notes: I completed this today, so I am unsure how long my repair will hold. Access to the tether cord and oval cut out is easiest with the roof half way up. I pulled my G out of the garage and let the engine run, so the compressors and pnuematics raising the roof wouldn't decompress and cause the roof to fall. I also used thin, needle nosed pliers to insert the plastic trim and press it into position. Hopefully, my photos help clarify what I did.
When you say splice, do you basically mean like tying it together in a knot or like did you use some hardware from the store to bite both ends of the cord or what
After attempting to find cord from a local auto parts store to fix the broken tether on my 2013 G37, which they couldn't provide, they referred me to a local upholstery shop that specializes in convertible top repairs (San Jose, CA). The shop noted that the cord was beginning to fray at other points around the headliner, which was clearly visible. They offered to do the minor repair, but theorized the cord was likely to break elsewhere before too long. So for $500, they used paracord (parachute cord as suggested by @drpatton260 ) to replace the entire tether cord holding the headliner in place.
Like others here, the plastic clip where the tether cord terminated and was held in place to keep the cord tight, that little piece had broken. The shop used a grommet-type piece that the paracord ran through to secure it in place. See the attached pics for some clarity on that.
I'm hopeful that having an entirely new tether cord will add years to the headliner lifespan.
[QUOTE=Bhobbster62;4310775]Hi James, can you please PM me the link for the headliner installation instructions? My 2013 G37 had one of the cords break right at the very back of the roof, and the replacement cost of $4100 is of course out of the question. I'm hoping to replace that single tether, but not sure where the cords run through the top and connect.
I HAD THE SAME THING HAPPEN TO MINE. CAN ANYONE SEND ME INFO?
