Got factory spoiler installed

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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 12:54 AM
  #31  
ImStricken's Avatar
ImStricken
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Originally Posted by G37Vert
LOL, you never answered my questions. So, I guess if you are, err, were his supplier, your spoiler is the same one?
im not sure what it is he is currently selling, there are two types of spoilers = KNOCKOFFS & OEM/NISSAN spoilers.
I ONLY SELL OEM/NISSAN BRANDED OFFICIAL SPOILERS(the whole kit). for a while he used to buy my oem spoilers and resell them.

i wouldnt suggest buying spoilers from anyone else, and thats not a sales gimmick, thats simple advice. you can search (just recently) someone bought a spoiler under the guise that it was OEM, when it was not.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/body-in...henticity.html

Ultimately the choice is yours. you will buy from whoever you feel is right. personally me, since there is a choice: i would not buy from someONE. i would buy from a Company. A company that holds better business bureau accreditation. hope that helps.
AAA Management, Inc. Business Review in Jamesburg, NJ - New Jersey BBB

Last edited by cereal2k; Nov 24, 2011 at 08:38 AM.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 04:03 PM
  #32  
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From: Fort Worth,Tx.
Tada!

What fun to do it myself. And what a joy to look out the rear view mirror and not see that ugly antenna. Thanks CVIPGO, you're the best.



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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 04:38 PM
  #33  
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From: Holt, FL
Very nice!
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 05:31 PM
  #34  
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How much was the install?
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 10:15 AM
  #35  
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The install was FREE... DIY. I've read that some have it done for about $175 but I love a project. It wasn't difficult.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 10:24 AM
  #36  
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Thanks for the info. How were the instructions?
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 05:04 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by upwinddan
Thanks for the info. How were the instructions?
The instructions are very straightforward and as long as you have the right tools and measure acurately before drilling you will be fine. It took me about 2 hours start to finish.

A few important additions that are not included in the instructions would include
1 - Use silcone around the 2 holes that you drill into the top of the trunk lid before you place the spoiler on top and bolt it down to protect against moisture seeping into the trunk.
2 - Use a little paint or primer around the 4 holes that you do drill to reduce against rust or corosion of the bare metal surfaces created by the drill. It doesnt have to be neat or pretty, no one will ever see it but you dont want the surfaces to begin to oxidize.
3 - When drilling the 2 holes on the underside of the trunk lid, use a magnet to catch all of the metal filings so they dont slide into the void between the trunk skin and reinforcing braces.

Good luck!
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 09:51 AM
  #38  
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Ditto Bschurr. A couple of other minor things Upwinddan:

If you have trouble with disconnecting anything just examine the new connectors... there seem to be as many different ways of locking connectors as there are connectors.

Calibrating the backup camera (if so equipped) although maybe not necessary (though mine was off), had one step you might have to dig around for. The procedure is in the service manual but knowing how to get into the calibration mode was assumed. My backup lines are more accurate now than before which makes me wonder if the Japanese really do this at the factory (right). I know this because I have a marked curbside spot I park in at work everyday. Oh... the calibration mode? Turn off the radio, turn off the car, turn car to acc mode, click your heels two times, hold settings button down while turning up radio volume **** (about 40 clicks they say) until display pops up the service menu and away you go.

Oh and it helps to have a plastic fastener and molding removal kit.

Last edited by Texnician; Dec 16, 2011 at 09:56 AM.
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