Engine rebuild for forced induction
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Engine rebuild for forced induction
Hey all!
Just bought a used VQ37 awd engine from a yard off a 2013 G37x that I am currently stripping down to just the block to be machined and freshened up.
I plan on getting Wiseco forged piston heads with Brian Crower rods and I'm wondering if I should over size the piston heads.
The reason I ask is not because I want to increase the displacement but instead because I read after getting the cylinder walls machined they could be shaved down during the cleaning process, so I'd like to keep a low compression ratio for the AAM twin kit I have while also making sure the pistons are going to fit properly.
Any help and information will be greatly appreciated so thanks in advance.
Just bought a used VQ37 awd engine from a yard off a 2013 G37x that I am currently stripping down to just the block to be machined and freshened up.
I plan on getting Wiseco forged piston heads with Brian Crower rods and I'm wondering if I should over size the piston heads.
The reason I ask is not because I want to increase the displacement but instead because I read after getting the cylinder walls machined they could be shaved down during the cleaning process, so I'd like to keep a low compression ratio for the AAM twin kit I have while also making sure the pistons are going to fit properly.
Any help and information will be greatly appreciated so thanks in advance.
#2
Registered Member
Stock ECU and ecutec or standalone?
either way, low compression should NOT be your goal.
besides, a "cleanup" or even oversized (stock) pistons would not change the comp ratio enough to sooth detonation issues prevalent with past fuel/timing management.
and don't bother "cleaning" the bores till you have new pistons in hand for the machinist to measure.
if your power goals are high enough, sleeving and/or a block guard might be the way to go.
either way, low compression should NOT be your goal.
besides, a "cleanup" or even oversized (stock) pistons would not change the comp ratio enough to sooth detonation issues prevalent with past fuel/timing management.
and don't bother "cleaning" the bores till you have new pistons in hand for the machinist to measure.
if your power goals are high enough, sleeving and/or a block guard might be the way to go.
#3
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Stock ECU and ecutec or standalone?
either way, low compression should NOT be your goal.
besides, a "cleanup" or even oversized (stock) pistons would not change the comp ratio enough to sooth detonation issues prevalent with past fuel/timing management.
and don't bother "cleaning" the bores till you have new pistons in hand for the machinist to measure.
if your power goals are high enough, sleeving and/or a block guard might be the way to go.
either way, low compression should NOT be your goal.
besides, a "cleanup" or even oversized (stock) pistons would not change the comp ratio enough to sooth detonation issues prevalent with past fuel/timing management.
and don't bother "cleaning" the bores till you have new pistons in hand for the machinist to measure.
if your power goals are high enough, sleeving and/or a block guard might be the way to go.
Sorry I didn't get back sooner, I haven't had time to comeback to this thread till now.
To answer your questions I'll be keeping a stock ECU with ECUcutek as I haven't found a standalone ECU for the G37 anywhere I've tired looking. My power goals I'd say are fairly high (roughly 600hp to the wheels). I do intend on sleeving my block with Daton sleeves aswell as using the Wiseco/Eagle pistons and rods
I wasnt too sure on what a "good" compression ratio for boost would be and I am still fairly new to anything in depth like that, I figure the normal 10:1 would be ideal for boost but I really am unsure.
The only reason I thought I may need to oversize the cylinder walls wasn't from a want to do so but rather it may have to happen during a cleanup if the engine has alot of debris or carbon build up inside the block, Im sure alot of the VQs by now (atleast any I can buy used) have really seen better says and have seen many many miles. My plan is to buy a X model longblock with the transmission and tear it all apart by hand to learn the ins and outs while also saving money instead of buying a remanufactured VQ from somewhere.
Hope that answers some of your questions and give you a better idea of my plans, anymore help will be appreciated.
#4
Super Moderator
I always revert to the MotoIQ thread when I feel inspired to rebuild: https://motoiq.com/building-the-nissan-vq37vhr/2/
But it focuses on NA and the 12:1 JWT pistons would not be a suitable fit for boost on pump gas based on my understanding.
Personally, if I were pursuing boost, I would lean on the manufacture/install shop/tuner of the supercharger or turbo for compression ratio recommendations.
Eugene @bythabay introduced his TT kit recently, and is extremely knowledgeable of the platform: https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/e...infiniti-vq37/
Sebastian at SpecialtyZ is another with god-tier knowledge of the platform.
This chart provides some guidelines as related to boost pressure and compression ratios:
https://rpmoutlet.com/boost-compression-ratio-chart/
But it focuses on NA and the 12:1 JWT pistons would not be a suitable fit for boost on pump gas based on my understanding.
Personally, if I were pursuing boost, I would lean on the manufacture/install shop/tuner of the supercharger or turbo for compression ratio recommendations.
Eugene @bythabay introduced his TT kit recently, and is extremely knowledgeable of the platform: https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/e...infiniti-vq37/
Sebastian at SpecialtyZ is another with god-tier knowledge of the platform.
This chart provides some guidelines as related to boost pressure and compression ratios:
https://rpmoutlet.com/boost-compression-ratio-chart/
#5
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Sorry I didn't get back sooner, I haven't had time to comeback to this thread till now.
To answer your questions I'll be keeping a stock ECU with ECUcutek as I haven't found a standalone ECU for the G37 anywhere I've tired looking. My power goals I'd say are fairly high (roughly 600hp to the wheels). I do intend on sleeving my block with Daton sleeves aswell as using the Wiseco/Eagle pistons and rods
I wasnt too sure on what a "good" compression ratio for boost would be and I am still fairly new to anything in depth like that, I figure the normal 10:1 would be ideal for boost but I really am unsure.
The only reason I thought I may need to oversize the cylinder walls wasn't from a want to do so but rather it may have to happen during a cleanup if the engine has alot of debris or carbon build up inside the block, Im sure alot of the VQs by now (atleast any I can buy used) have really seen better says and have seen many many miles. My plan is to buy a X model longblock with the transmission and tear it all apart by hand to learn the ins and outs while also saving money instead of buying a remanufactured VQ from somewhere.
Hope that answers some of your questions and give you a better idea of my plans, anymore help will be appreciated.
To answer your questions I'll be keeping a stock ECU with ECUcutek as I haven't found a standalone ECU for the G37 anywhere I've tired looking. My power goals I'd say are fairly high (roughly 600hp to the wheels). I do intend on sleeving my block with Daton sleeves aswell as using the Wiseco/Eagle pistons and rods
I wasnt too sure on what a "good" compression ratio for boost would be and I am still fairly new to anything in depth like that, I figure the normal 10:1 would be ideal for boost but I really am unsure.
The only reason I thought I may need to oversize the cylinder walls wasn't from a want to do so but rather it may have to happen during a cleanup if the engine has alot of debris or carbon build up inside the block, Im sure alot of the VQs by now (atleast any I can buy used) have really seen better says and have seen many many miles. My plan is to buy a X model longblock with the transmission and tear it all apart by hand to learn the ins and outs while also saving money instead of buying a remanufactured VQ from somewhere.
Hope that answers some of your questions and give you a better idea of my plans, anymore help will be appreciated.
I'll definitely have to give that a deeper look for some info. As of right now I'm in talks with AAM to make a TT kit for the X model Gs since we don't really have anything besides SC to have fun with and i prefer turbo whistle to a belt whine..
From what I do remember reading on AAM's website is they recommend a lower compression ratio and they also use Wiseco pistons and rods in their create engine options, but I still have no idea what cylinder bore they are using, it could be the factory 95.5mm or it could be something like 96.5mm, I'm really not sure. I really wanna go in depth and do a full engine rebuild myself to learn the ins and outs of the VQ37 without blowing it up once I put it back in.
I figure having a slightly bigger cylinder bore may provide a little bit of extra power but all I wanna do is have the walls cleaned up since the TT kit will already provide more than enough power. I guess ill have to wait until I hear back from AAM on what they recommend.
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