I've owned my 2012 G37xs for about a month now and about a week ago while I was driving, my check engine light came on and car started to go into limp mode @2500rpm. Pulled over, scanned it and it read P0011. Took it back home, changed oil and filter, didn't fix. I then ordered 2 new VVT Solenoids and replaced them both. Still hasn't fixed this issue. Idk if it's the camshaft sensors, camshaft actuator/sprocket, etc.

Just need some help and ideas on what could be wrong. Was thinking about switching the cam sensors and seeing if the code changes from bank 1 to bank 2. Just need some suggestions as I'm running out of ideas.

(P.S. When I did the oil change, oil was very low and dirty, maybe only a qt came out. Guy I bought it from said he changed it in June. Tbh I should've just changed the oil when I first got the car, despite what he said.)

 

Here is the list of possibilities for P0011 from the FSM. Based on what you noted about the oil, you might want to look into that last one on the list.
• Crankshaft position sensor (POS)
• Camshaft position sensor (PHASE)
• Intake valve control solenoid valve
• Accumulation of debris to the signal pick-up portion of the camshaft
• Timing chain installation
• Foreign matter caught in the oil groove for intake valve timing control

 

Yea I’m thinking something is clogged. gonna take it to a shop next week for a diagnosis. in the mean time i might take off the cam cover and see what i can do.

 

would you recommend doing a oil flush/carbon flush? like with an additive?

 

@BULL It looks like this is another victim of the phaser???

 

idk i think something may be clogged or such. my idle isn't super bad but on a cold start it'll be at 1300rpms for about 10-15 seconds then will lower to about 1000rpms. ik average idle rpm is 800-900 so idk what to think lmao. i'm praying it isn't the phaser.

 

Is this with the AC on?

You should try AC off. Should be closer to 650-700rpm.

 

nah i don’t have the ac on. getting pretty cold in canada now. but my idle while in drive is about 650-700 but in park it’s around 1000.

 

UPDATE: So I booked an appointment with the dealer since no local mechanics could get the parts. A week before my appointment, the car wouldn’t start. For about a week I was trying to figure out what was wrong (battery, fuel, etc). Then I hooked up my OBD scanner and found a camshaft position sensor code.

Replaced the sensor now it starts and I’m no longer getting code p0011. Car is running a lot better too.

It’s amazing that a $50 part saved me from paying the dealer probably over 2 grand for sprockets, timing chains, and labor that I didn’t even need.

 

Consider yourself lucky, those Hitachi sensors are pretty stout and barely fail but still can. Usually the common failure is for metal to stick to it and cause it to read different.
Glad you were able to get it fixed.

 

Hitachi only. Others will fail.

 

OEM Hitachi or Aftermarket Hitachi from Rockauto and such okay? I would think both are the same.

 

Well, There are counterfeit NGK and you can be fooled easily unless you know what to look for. Not sure on O2's. RA should have genuine. OEM vs aftermarket are NOT the same quality. How do I know? I work in the OEM supply base. Doesn't matter who or where it was made. The difference may be small but there is a difference.

 

That's true on the downstream products, atleast for tires, but I didn't know it was similar for other products.

I replaced my sensor with the Hitachi VTS0003 and VTS0005 from RockAuto but still have the codes. I'll be purchasing the OEM Hitachi unit base on your comment.

 

Oh is DEFINITELY on tires! That is where I learned the difference back in the early 90's from a Bridgestone guy in Nashville. EVERYONE has issues and that is where those go is...aftermarket. You might try the $tealer. Also I got mine of RA and it was ok. You may have other issues.