Manual engine in an auto car
Manual engine in an auto car
Just looking for some insight as I haven’t been able to find an answer for this. Nothing complicated. But a friend of mine has a 20k mile engine block from his 2019 Nismo Z that he blew a ring in. We already tore the engine down and the block is perfect. I’m considering buying it off him to build it. Only thing I need to know is whether the auto in my car will bolt right up or am I going to need an adapter plate?
The only thing different on the block side is the pilot bearing. Instead of a manual pilot bearing, you would instead an auto pilot bearing.
install all your auto parts; flex plate, torque converter, etc. like normal.
I put an auto engine into my manual.
install all your auto parts; flex plate, torque converter, etc. like normal.
I put an auto engine into my manual.
Whew that’s a relief I really wasn’t trying to find someone to make an adapter plate. I figured it’d work, but you never know. Things that seem too simple are usually everything but. I appreciate the response.
Devil's advocate here, If you're still considering the purchase.
Even a gifted block ends up being too much for the total outcome (many have been down this road before)
Being that these engines will take a minimum of 500whp of years of safe abuse (if safe abuse is even a thing) unopened. Many hang in the 600-700whp. Most lift the heads around 900-1000whp even with heavy duty studs and gaskets etc.
Safe to assume you're not going for 800whp anytime soon, this means whatever power goal you might have might be accomplished with a stock engine.
Many times folks go into a VHR rebuild with an oldschool mentality, however many times the OEM factory parts compete in strength and longevity. Meaning I doubt there's much you can replace with aftermarket that will beat factory in power and longevity.
Many folks who rebuild these and get into ring replacement/honing/boring, Can't get factory ring specs or undersize them, Factory ring spec is fantastic on these cars for the amount of boost they can take and sadly not many can replicate this.
Conclusion: You'll save yourself money and headaches by saving that money and buying yourself a running engine that you can throw whatever you want at it. There is nothing special about that Nismo block other than the VIN stamped to it which nobody checks or cares about.
The block is still the same, even folks who build rather start with a running engine than rebuild a broken one.
The only market for VHR blocks are from HR folks who which to stroke their Vq35hr to 3.7 and even those start with full assemblies.
Even a gifted block ends up being too much for the total outcome (many have been down this road before)
Being that these engines will take a minimum of 500whp of years of safe abuse (if safe abuse is even a thing) unopened. Many hang in the 600-700whp. Most lift the heads around 900-1000whp even with heavy duty studs and gaskets etc.
Safe to assume you're not going for 800whp anytime soon, this means whatever power goal you might have might be accomplished with a stock engine.
Many times folks go into a VHR rebuild with an oldschool mentality, however many times the OEM factory parts compete in strength and longevity. Meaning I doubt there's much you can replace with aftermarket that will beat factory in power and longevity.
Many folks who rebuild these and get into ring replacement/honing/boring, Can't get factory ring specs or undersize them, Factory ring spec is fantastic on these cars for the amount of boost they can take and sadly not many can replicate this.
Conclusion: You'll save yourself money and headaches by saving that money and buying yourself a running engine that you can throw whatever you want at it. There is nothing special about that Nismo block other than the VIN stamped to it which nobody checks or cares about.
The block is still the same, even folks who build rather start with a running engine than rebuild a broken one.
The only market for VHR blocks are from HR folks who which to stroke their Vq35hr to 3.7 and even those start with full assemblies.
Devil's advocate here, If you're still considering the purchase.
Even a gifted block ends up being too much for the total outcome (many have been down this road before)
Being that these engines will take a minimum of 500whp of years of safe abuse (if safe abuse is even a thing) unopened. Many hang in the 600-700whp. Most lift the heads around 900-1000whp even with heavy duty studs and gaskets etc.
Safe to assume you're not going for 800whp anytime soon, this means whatever power goal you might have might be accomplished with a stock engine.
Many times folks go into a VHR rebuild with an oldschool mentality, however many times the OEM factory parts compete in strength and longevity. Meaning I doubt there's much you can replace with aftermarket that will beat factory in power and longevity.
Many folks who rebuild these and get into ring replacement/honing/boring, Can't get factory ring specs or undersize them, Factory ring spec is fantastic on these cars for the amount of boost they can take and sadly not many can replicate this.
Conclusion: You'll save yourself money and headaches by saving that money and buying yourself a running engine that you can throw whatever you want at it. There is nothing special about that Nismo block other than the VIN stamped to it which nobody checks or cares about.
The block is still the same, even folks who build rather start with a running engine than rebuild a broken one.
The only market for VHR blocks are from HR folks who which to stroke their Vq35hr to 3.7 and even those start with full assemblies.
Even a gifted block ends up being too much for the total outcome (many have been down this road before)
Being that these engines will take a minimum of 500whp of years of safe abuse (if safe abuse is even a thing) unopened. Many hang in the 600-700whp. Most lift the heads around 900-1000whp even with heavy duty studs and gaskets etc.
Safe to assume you're not going for 800whp anytime soon, this means whatever power goal you might have might be accomplished with a stock engine.
Many times folks go into a VHR rebuild with an oldschool mentality, however many times the OEM factory parts compete in strength and longevity. Meaning I doubt there's much you can replace with aftermarket that will beat factory in power and longevity.
Many folks who rebuild these and get into ring replacement/honing/boring, Can't get factory ring specs or undersize them, Factory ring spec is fantastic on these cars for the amount of boost they can take and sadly not many can replicate this.
Conclusion: You'll save yourself money and headaches by saving that money and buying yourself a running engine that you can throw whatever you want at it. There is nothing special about that Nismo block other than the VIN stamped to it which nobody checks or cares about.
The block is still the same, even folks who build rather start with a running engine than rebuild a broken one.
The only market for VHR blocks are from HR folks who which to stroke their Vq35hr to 3.7 and even those start with full assemblies.
Mainly because even at 106k the body is still in great shape and I’ve been thinking about boost. But I’m not gonna throw anything like that at a 100k mile engine. But then again, it’s all speculation right now. I haven’t solidified any ideas or a plan. Was just something to look into. Definitely gonna do some research on other options. I appreciate the look out.
Last edited by SoutherTierVQ; Oct 24, 2022 at 02:28 PM.
it wasn’t specifically because it’s a nismo block. I know there’s no differences. And I didn’t plan on going huge power either. I’m only considering it because he only wants 500 for the block. So next to nothing. My car has has 106k on it (which I know isn’t a lot relatively). So my mind set was a good 20k mile block and a good quality lower end rebuild for only like 2-3k didn’t sound too bad. Seeing as we could do the work at his shop.
Mainly because even at 106k the body is still in great shape and I’ve been thinking about boost. But I’m not gonna throw anything like that at a 100k mile engine. But then again, it’s all speculation right now. I haven’t solidified any ideas or a plan. Was just something to look into. Definitely gonna do some research on other options. I appreciate the look out.
Mainly because even at 106k the body is still in great shape and I’ve been thinking about boost. But I’m not gonna throw anything like that at a 100k mile engine. But then again, it’s all speculation right now. I haven’t solidified any ideas or a plan. Was just something to look into. Definitely gonna do some research on other options. I appreciate the look out.
Though $500 doesnt sound like a lot it ends up being since for $2k + you'll end up with the same as $1000 used engine + extra parts.
The argument is that factory sealed will take anything you're thinking about throwing at it. Bottom end rebuilds are just rings and bearings which in my opinion cant get cheaper than a whole engine.
Though $500 doesnt sound like a lot it ends up being since for $2k + you'll end up with the same as $1000 used engine + extra parts.
Though $500 doesnt sound like a lot it ends up being since for $2k + you'll end up with the same as $1000 used engine + extra parts.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
G37xsnewguy
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
0
Oct 28, 2017 02:21 AM
Primo55
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
20
Mar 24, 2016 10:23 AM







