That's nice that the shop suggested ebay parts, most shops I know wouldn't.

The oil pressure spec is:
• Idle: >14 PSI with the oil at 80C / 176F
• 2,000 RPM > 43 psi

For point a of reference @ 80C oil temp my pressure was:
• 25 psi at idle
• 61 psi at 2,000.

An easy way to get your oil temp is to use and cheap OBD scanner, Torque Pro
and follow these steps:

 

I installed the guage .. so I guess my oil psi is normal then .. thanks for the reply .. still wondering what is causing the limp mode .. i have pretty rusted exhaust maybe that has something to do with it? not sure why it would show 1608 code though

 

dealership doesn't know what wrong either so 3rd time paying diagnostic for nothing .. suggested it could be the engine harness and would cost $5200!! .. not sure what else to do?? cant afford $5200 and def not gonna pay that and not even know that is the issue.

If i pay the dealer for a diagnostic and they dont diagnose the issue can i get my money back?

if anyone has any ideas i dont know what else to do at this point


anyone want to buy my car????

 

Seems to me Infiniti just pulls codes and gives a printout from their TECH LINE system and calls that a diagnostic.. no information about what steps were actually done and what things were tested on the car. $160 for that! waiting for a return call from the General Manager. This dealership is JBA Infiniti in Ellicott City Maryland.

If anyone has a recommendation in the Maryland area of a mechanic Id appreciate it. I have taken the car 2 places now and still no one can tell me what is wrong.

 

Jba isn't the best and they cost a lot, as you've come to realize. I've had better luck with Nationwide Infiniti in Timonium. Just make an appointment so they will have a loaner waiting for you. They are the best of the Infiniti dealers in Maryland that I've dealt with. Antwerpen Nissan Owings Mills also works on Infinitis but they don't really do loaners unless you're spending over a certain dollar amount, and they only give out Sentras when they do.

Went for an oil change at JBA and had the "tech" tell me BOTH of my BRAND NEW rear calipers were sticking and that my radiator hose was swelling, which it wasn't. Told me it would be an hours diagnostic fee to see what the problem was with my calipers, even though a brake inspection is only $30. JBA is only good for the free food and computers in the waiting room and the free car washes.

 

Word of advice from a tech always check the easy stuff first. You should have started with electrical instead of replacing the module. 9/10 times from what I have seen it’s electrical problems either with a fuse, relay, or exposed wiring that has lost its insulation. If you have a multimeter do what ILM said. GL

 

So the guy at the shop said my alternator is weak at 12v which is should be at 14v… he basically said the alternator can’t power the whole car and batter causing the vvel MOTOR to loose voltage which in return cause my cars throttle response to be low and go into limp mode

 

This is not the right thread to post this in.
Please create your own thread.

PS If you're experiencing these codes, to confirm your alternator is bad means that your battery will soon die. If this happens you can confirm the alternator is bad and replacement should be done.
He should perform an alternator test to confirm. As a DIY method you can remove the center pin from the alternator which is what controls the charging. A working alternator should art charging at max = 14.4v if this doesnt happen then again is a bad alternator.
Lastly, beware of cheap alternator replacements.

 

Any solution to this?

Just got throughan engine rebuild and I'm having the same issue.

My car is an auto. When I take it on a 20 mile test drive it runs great! As soon as i put it back in park this happens.

I disconnected and reconnected the battery and took it on another test drive (light was cleared after the battery was disconnected). When I got back from the test drive it did the same thing.

 

Having the same issue after engine swap any fix? Getting code p1090 car runs fine for a few then back to limp after

 

Anyone have any luck resolving these issues? I’m having same problems. Vehicle runs good for 5mins then into limp mode. Dealership says the engine has low compression and want to replace whole engine.

 

I had same problem. It all started after heavy rainstorm. I had water go down wire harness and got into connectors. There by the PCM behind glove box. Also there's one by the battery by the vvel module that also had water problems corrosion on the wires. I'd check the wiring before buying any parts. Especially if your in wet environment. Hope this helps.

 

My suggestion to everyone is to pull the battery cover and locate the HUGE square black connector. This connector deals with most of all of the VVEL wires. This connector is extremely common for it to have debris inside.
The position of the female connector is facing up towards the observer so in any debris situation if it passes the seal it will stay in this connector.
Another thing to look/check are the VVEL and PWM fan relays for corrosion, etc. These are the same relays so it would not hurt to swap them out to test if you have a bad relay.

VVEL power to relays are in the long rectangle fuse box 40/50amp I believe.

In my experience these VVEL codes hit most 08-09 from faulty VVEL ECMs and age.
Newer years suffer from debris.

Issues after swaps could be:
Damaged VVEL position sensors ( farthest sensors, usually get damaged when pulling the engine)
Incorrect engine harness ( YOU SHOULD ALWAYS USE YOUR ENGINE HARNESS)
Damaged VVEL motor harness
Engine rebuilds and VVEL position was not set (if cams were removed and position was not checked or adjusted they will be off)
Alternator/Battery problems (ECM shuts them off under 11v, G37 has a variable charging capabilities, do not confuse that just because you're at 12v doesnt mean alternator is not working)