Is FI realistic for 7AT AWD models?
In my car, maybe something is wrong with it, there doesn't seem to be a tendency for the 7AT to hold lower gears in DS. What I have noticed is that DS will down-shift fairly aggressively when suddenly braking, and of course when you use the paddles in DS they stay in manual mode until you select D again, whereas in D using the paddles the 7AT only stays in manual for a while until reverting back to auto.
Maybe when the 7AT is "tuned", the tune has special programming for when DS is selected?
Maybe when the 7AT is "tuned", the tune has special programming for when DS is selected?
the 7AT is good for around 450wtq anything over that is when the problems begin.. Torque kills the transmission not HP
your not making much power so the transmission will be fine..
your not making much power so the transmission will be fine..
I know this is an old thread, but I would like to throw my 2 cents in, in case someone searches for info on the 7 AT and FI.
I have had the Stillen kit on my G37X for 5 years now, and 50,000 trouble free miles. No engine upgrades (except the Setrab oil cooler) and no transmission upgrades, except a transmission cooler and changed the fluid for Amsoil, and changed transmission fluid every 25,000 miles.
I had a conversation with Pat (?) from Level 10 several years ago. He suggested a few things:
1. Do add transmission cooling.
2. Do not upgrade transmission until it breaks. He doesn't charge more to upgrade a transmission that's shot, compared to one that's not.
3. Do have UpRev adjust the line pressures to his suggested pressures.
4. Do use the manual shift or paddle shifters.
5. Always use sport mode.
6. Never use downshifts to brake the car. Brake pads are cheap. Transmissions aren't.
So I followed his advice and so far, so good.
Some caveats: I have not altered anything from the Stillen kit, except for the canned tune. I got an e-tune from UpRev. So no smaller pulley, no upgraded impeller. Making around 400WHP.
If you go for big horsepower, things will break. My previous FI car (a Maxima) made 486HP at 13 PSI from a VQ30DEK. And everything broke, all the time.
I have had the Stillen kit on my G37X for 5 years now, and 50,000 trouble free miles. No engine upgrades (except the Setrab oil cooler) and no transmission upgrades, except a transmission cooler and changed the fluid for Amsoil, and changed transmission fluid every 25,000 miles.
I had a conversation with Pat (?) from Level 10 several years ago. He suggested a few things:
1. Do add transmission cooling.
2. Do not upgrade transmission until it breaks. He doesn't charge more to upgrade a transmission that's shot, compared to one that's not.
3. Do have UpRev adjust the line pressures to his suggested pressures.
4. Do use the manual shift or paddle shifters.
5. Always use sport mode.
6. Never use downshifts to brake the car. Brake pads are cheap. Transmissions aren't.
So I followed his advice and so far, so good.
Some caveats: I have not altered anything from the Stillen kit, except for the canned tune. I got an e-tune from UpRev. So no smaller pulley, no upgraded impeller. Making around 400WHP.
If you go for big horsepower, things will break. My previous FI car (a Maxima) made 486HP at 13 PSI from a VQ30DEK. And everything broke, all the time.
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