I just replaced my engine not too long ago and i'm prepping for a re-tune. We all know the issues with the stillen kit so i'm trying to fix those issues while staying on air to water. I know it's best to go A2A but considering I just spent over 5k on the new motor, I wanna stay air to water for now and switch over to a2a next year.

What I want to do is move the mafs back on the charge pipe and put a filter directly on the blower. I just bought the 50mm Tial BOV and I'm planning to weld it on the charge pipe before the mafs. I'm sure other people have done this before but I can't seem to find anything about it.

Can the guys that have done this please post some pics or comment on where you put the mafs and the bov?

 

I am wondering the same exact thing.

 

anyone have any insights on this?

 

I wanted to reply in case anyone else is thinking about doing this.
I did actually did relocate the BOV to the charge pipe and the biggest issue I had was idle surges. RPMs weren't consistent at idle so the car felt like it was misfiring when it wasn't. This was happening because my MAFs were too close to the BOV so there was a lot of turbulence happening which was throwing off the MAFs resulting in fluctuating RPMs. I think other people have moved the MAFs far away enough from the BOV on the charge pipe and staggered them as well to cause less turbulence to try to keep the surging to a minimum. I personally decided to pull the trigger on an A2A kit instead of cutting and welding the charge pipe again. Even if you stagger the MAFs and move it away further from the BOV, you're still not getting accurate IAT readings since your MAFs are still before the intercooler. your best bet is just switching to an A2A kit. t

 

How did this work out for you?

 

Its easy enough to modify your existing charge pipe and add MAFs to that. Buy an intercooler and go A2A. PM me for details. A couple pipes and some couplers. Flat K&N air filter. Mind the crappy alumiweld job-not my forté.