Car starts, shudders, and then shuts off with CEL
Car starts, shudders, and then shuts off with CEL
This has happened about three times within the past couple of months. But it happened twice in a row last night.
I try to start the car and it starts and the RPM goes to about 1,000 and then quickly dips down to 200 and then the car shuts off and shows the Check Engine Light. This happened twice in a row and then on the third time it started but almost seemed like it was going to do it again but it didn't.
09 G37x with 92,000 miles. Is this most likely the spark plugs or coil packs or something else?
After the car starts correctly the CEL goes away and there are no codes stored.
I try to start the car and it starts and the RPM goes to about 1,000 and then quickly dips down to 200 and then the car shuts off and shows the Check Engine Light. This happened twice in a row and then on the third time it started but almost seemed like it was going to do it again but it didn't.
09 G37x with 92,000 miles. Is this most likely the spark plugs or coil packs or something else?
After the car starts correctly the CEL goes away and there are no codes stored.
Registered Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 183
From: ATX
This has happened about three times within the past couple of months. But it happened twice in a row last night.
I try to start the car and it starts and the RPM goes to about 1,000 and then quickly dips down to 200 and then the car shuts off and shows the Check Engine Light. This happened twice in a row and then on the third time it started but almost seemed like it was going to do it again but it didn't.
09 G37x with 92,000 miles. Is this most likely the spark plugs or coil packs or something else?
After the car starts correctly the CEL goes away and there are no codes stored.
I try to start the car and it starts and the RPM goes to about 1,000 and then quickly dips down to 200 and then the car shuts off and shows the Check Engine Light. This happened twice in a row and then on the third time it started but almost seemed like it was going to do it again but it didn't.
09 G37x with 92,000 miles. Is this most likely the spark plugs or coil packs or something else?
After the car starts correctly the CEL goes away and there are no codes stored.
the check engine light your seeing is because when the car dies it goes to accessory mode.
its not a actual check engine light. It's just a bulb check procedure.
If you go to your car and turn it to accessory mode (engine not running) you will also see the same check engine light on, as well as multiple other lights. This is the car doing a bulb check. You don't really have a check engine light.
If you really had a check engine light it would be illuminated when the engine is running.
I get this same problem every once in awhile too. I notice it only happens when the car has been warmed up. After a long drive, if I park the car and come out 30 minutes to 1 hour later to start it, it'll start up normally and than rpm starts to drop to 300-400rpm. When I notice the rpm starting to drop I just quickly blip the throttle. It stops the car from stalling than the rpms go back to normal. If I don't do this, the car will stall out and will usually start right back up on the 2nd or 3rd attempt.
it never left me stranded
I tried cleaning both throttle bodies, cleaned the MAFs, ran BG44K through the gas tank. Still this happens intermittently. Maybe twice a month.
2011 G37 auto with 76k miles
Last edited by qmantran; Jan 11, 2018 at 01:13 PM.
Registered Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 183
From: ATX
Thanks for the suggestion, I just did the procedures below.
I did those two steps above and followed the G37 ECU reset procedure last.
Upon start up it fired right up and quickly settled to 750-800 rpm instantly. I'll report back with updates.
Infiniti G37 Sedan Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning Procedure
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully released position of the accelerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of accelerator pedal position sensor or Engine Control Module (ECM) is disconnected.
Instructions
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully released position of the accelerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of accelerator pedal position sensor or Engine Control Module (ECM) is disconnected.
Instructions
- Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
- Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
- Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
- Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
- Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Infiniti G37 Sedan Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Procedure
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator or Engine Control Module (ECM) is disconnected.
Instructions
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator or Engine Control Module (ECM) is disconnected.
Instructions
- Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
- Turn ignition switch ON.
- Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds
Upon start up it fired right up and quickly settled to 750-800 rpm instantly. I'll report back with updates.
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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 427
Likes: 59
From: ɷ Connecticut ɷ
Cool glad it worked, nice trick when the car is acting strange...I notice it helped after I cleaned the throttle body on my 04 g35 and when my battery died on my 10 g37...weird how those things will mess up the computers idle
Thanks for the suggestion, I just did the procedures below.
I did those two steps above and followed the G37 ECU reset procedure last.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95WszTnphPI&t=1s
Upon start up it fired right up and quickly settled to 750-800 rpm instantly. I'll report back with updates.
I did those two steps above and followed the G37 ECU reset procedure last.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95WszTnphPI&t=1s
Upon start up it fired right up and quickly settled to 750-800 rpm instantly. I'll report back with updates.
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the check engine light your seeing is because when the car dies it goes to accessory mode.
its not a actual check engine light. It's just a bulb check procedure.
If you go to your car and turn it to accessory mode (engine not running) you will also see the same check engine light on, as well as multiple other lights. This is the car doing a bulb check. You don't really have a check engine light.
If you really had a check engine light it would be illuminated when the engine is running.
I get this same problem every once in awhile too. I notice it only happens when the car has been warmed up. After a long drive, if I park the car and come out 30 minutes to 1 hour later to start it, it'll start up normally and than rpm starts to drop to 300-400rpm. When I notice the rpm starting to drop I just quickly blip the throttle. It stops the car from stalling than the rpms go back to normal. If I don't do this, the car will stall out and will usually start right back up on the 2nd or 3rd attempt.
it never left me stranded
I tried cleaning both throttle bodies, cleaned the MAFs, ran BG44K through the gas tank. Still this happens intermittently. Maybe twice a month.
2011 G37 auto with 76k miles
its not a actual check engine light. It's just a bulb check procedure.
If you go to your car and turn it to accessory mode (engine not running) you will also see the same check engine light on, as well as multiple other lights. This is the car doing a bulb check. You don't really have a check engine light.
If you really had a check engine light it would be illuminated when the engine is running.
I get this same problem every once in awhile too. I notice it only happens when the car has been warmed up. After a long drive, if I park the car and come out 30 minutes to 1 hour later to start it, it'll start up normally and than rpm starts to drop to 300-400rpm. When I notice the rpm starting to drop I just quickly blip the throttle. It stops the car from stalling than the rpms go back to normal. If I don't do this, the car will stall out and will usually start right back up on the 2nd or 3rd attempt.
it never left me stranded
I tried cleaning both throttle bodies, cleaned the MAFs, ran BG44K through the gas tank. Still this happens intermittently. Maybe twice a month.
2011 G37 auto with 76k miles
I'll try the throttle relearn as someone else mentioned and see if that helps at all.
Registered Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 173
Likes: 29
Hope you get it resolved. Just to add a suggestion to a throttle issue, clean your throttle bodies if you haven't. My G was sputtering after starting up and somethimes died while idling. After cleaning the tb's, I was amazed at how much it helped, no problems since.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...le-bodies.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...le-bodies.html
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