LS Swap, TT Kit, Or SC Kit?
Some Guy
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 55
Likes: 12
From: MD
I've no stats on this, however I don't believe you can "stop on a dime" any better now than you could before, except maybe for your new pads. What you can do is pound those brakes over and over at high speeds, allowing for more functionality before they fade.
To be sure, 4DRZ will have an opinion here. Let's see.
To be sure, 4DRZ will have an opinion here. Let's see.
I think you guys are both right to a point. Bigger rotors will mainly help dissipate heat if that was the only thing you changed. However, it sounds like Takran upgraded his calipers as well which should improve his braking because there are more (and much larger) pistons giving the brakes substantially more clamping force. Pads will probably make the most immediate and noticeable difference.
The huge rotors just look cool - and stay cool, as you said, though I don't track the car (yet).
. More information on my build in my build thread. Like I said over there, this will be a long process as we'll be building everything ourselves. 
Registered Member
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
What exactly are you trying to accomplish?
If you just want a faster time in the 1/4 mile or to brag about dyno numbers just get nitrous until you get carried away with too much and pop the motor. You could probably do this a few times before you get bored and still be cheaper than an LS swap on a car that will be almost unsellable with an A/T, if you can even get that to work.
If you think it is too slow and want to keep it a long time, get a supercharger.
If you want it to sound great and have power on the cheap just get a tune, intakes, intake manifold, headers, cats, and exhaust. I only have the headers, cats, and exhaust and it already sounds great and is a ton of fun to drive.
If you want to track your car regularly, let me know and I can tell you which parts will fail first instead of wasting your money on too much power, throwing the balance of the car off and setting your brakes on fire.
If you want a dedicated track car with an LS motor, go buy a used Corvette.
If you just want a faster time in the 1/4 mile or to brag about dyno numbers just get nitrous until you get carried away with too much and pop the motor. You could probably do this a few times before you get bored and still be cheaper than an LS swap on a car that will be almost unsellable with an A/T, if you can even get that to work.
If you think it is too slow and want to keep it a long time, get a supercharger.
If you want it to sound great and have power on the cheap just get a tune, intakes, intake manifold, headers, cats, and exhaust. I only have the headers, cats, and exhaust and it already sounds great and is a ton of fun to drive.
If you want to track your car regularly, let me know and I can tell you which parts will fail first instead of wasting your money on too much power, throwing the balance of the car off and setting your brakes on fire.
If you want a dedicated track car with an LS motor, go buy a used Corvette.
IMHE (experience), better track times come from a slow, but predictable car (Miata, cough cough) and lots of seat time.
I've regularly run down BMW3s and modded FD3S rx7s in my buddy's track-prepped NB Miata, by conservation of momentum and lots of reps. He's a driving instructor, and is just scary fast with that 130ish HP with just a cage and suspension mods (and Kumho Victorracer tires). Tighter tracks like VIR are made for that car.
I'm surprised no one has suggested VK56VD swap yet. LOL.
I've regularly run down BMW3s and modded FD3S rx7s in my buddy's track-prepped NB Miata, by conservation of momentum and lots of reps. He's a driving instructor, and is just scary fast with that 130ish HP with just a cage and suspension mods (and Kumho Victorracer tires). Tighter tracks like VIR are made for that car.
I'm surprised no one has suggested VK56VD swap yet. LOL.
Registered Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 201
Likes: 25
From: Rancho Cucamonga, California
old topic resurrected from the dead. Just for fun i'll add my 2 cents. if you're looking for bang for your buck just supercharge it. There is "alot" that goes into an LS swap that a lot of people dont take into consideration. LS3's arent cheap.. about the price of a supercharger alone and thats not installed etc. Turbo is just too expensive (unless you piece everything together yourself) but then you said "reliability"... I vote supercharger. slap that sucker on the top in a few hours and you're good to go. A swapped car probably wont be too reliable.. better to stick with the engine the car came with. CHEAP //// RELIABLE //// FAST ///// pick 2.
#truth
I agree with the above statement. However, I am not so sure bolting a supercharger to a stock block is terribly reliable. The other thing is that it does not provide a ton more power than all the bolt ons, especially when you take into account the cost of a supercharger. Don't get me wrong, it would still be fun.
I agree with the above statement. However, I am not so sure bolting a supercharger to a stock block is terribly reliable. The other thing is that it does not provide a ton more power than all the bolt ons, especially when you take into account the cost of a supercharger. Don't get me wrong, it would still be fun.
This certainly is an old thread, and since originally participating 7 years ago, the year afterwards (2017), I also swapped out rear gearing for a 4.083 final drive. And while you don't create any more power than you had before, you absolutely move that power down low. The result is amazing. Whole new car.
Registered Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 254
From: Milwaukee WI
This certainly is an old thread, and since originally participating 7 years ago, the year afterwards (2017), I also swapped out rear gearing for a 4.083 final drive. And while you don't create any more power than you had before, you absolutely move that power down low. The result is amazing. Whole new car.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 148
Likes: 12
From: APO (US shipping address)
This certainly is an old thread, and since originally participating 7 years ago, the year afterwards (2017), I also swapped out rear gearing for a 4.083 final drive. And while you don't create any more power than you had before, you absolutely move that power down low. The result is amazing. Whole new car.
Like SupraOfDoom said, this is hands-down the best power mod you can do for the 6MT while staying NA. I have absolutely zero regrets, six years later. Look at the mods in my sig line... this car is so much fun to drive, it's nuts. The only times I think otherwise is when I get behind the wheel of a high HP monster and I realize everything is relative.
[edit]
Just remembered that I created a thread for this project way back when. Here it is:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/drivetr...6mt-sedan.html
Last edited by Rochester; Feb 28, 2023 at 09:38 AM.
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