JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Periodic drains/fills should negate needing a flush. I do mine every 4 years regardless of mileage. Takes 1.5 gals of premix for the fill.

Ricio1991

Well everyone had to get rid of the G because overheating issues never resolved even after infiniti put a new engine. Purchased a 2017 Q50 3.0t and liking it so far much more power potential but isn't very reliable. It has already overheated once at WOT hot summer days here on AZ at night around 97 degrees. Hopefully it will get resolved it's under warranty and purchase a heat exchanger for it. Sadly to say it will be my last infiniti. For now I'll enjoy it and see if I can find the issue. This one is still under warranty which is good

ezbme

The dumb mechanic put green coolant in it after I specified Blue. Made him do it again. What a waste of my time. The car is running fine. They were suggesting I get new hoses because they are original. I will let my regular guy do it, or I will do it myself. Not too hard.

Gabe Cady

any updates on this? My car suddenly today going to a shop (going to another bc these guys tried to scam me) temp gauge went up to half for the first time driving around and back..gauge went up and down a bit between half and normal lower temp, just reached 70k recently and may 6th I go to vegas for my bday I do have a coolant leak the passenger heater hose connector is leaking/bout to burst so that's what I'm getting done tomorrow, hoping for the best afterwards. In Arizona as well was about 97 today 90's to 100s is fine..didn't hear my fans tho.. keep in mind the leak isn't major but yeah hopefully I can figure something out before I go out of town, gonna go to camelback infiniti because peoria tried to bs the crap out of me 25K in repairs/maintenance when I first moved here, yeah right but they really wanted my car lmfao

BULL

Buy a BT OBD reader and monitor your temps this way.

Thermostat will open at 188F and should not exceed 213F. Any time youre passing this temp you can take evasive maneuvers to see if temps stabilize which will lead to a conclusion to your problem. OEM gauge over heating is usually 20F + than comfortable overheating temps.

Gabe Cady

thanks bull, I actually just got a obd 2 scanner and app but amazom decided to deliver it to the old address even tho I selected my az one I did replace my heater hose connector passenger side the connector was cracked half way through

Notfelix

Wow I’m surprised to see this thread still going. My car started doin the same thing at idle with ac on. I turn off the ac and it drops to around 208 . This issue only happens when idling on a hot day. When rolling my temps sit around 190 ish. I thought maybe it was the fans so I replaced my fans + the fan control module last week . Since one of these days my ac also stopped working at idle going in and out . So I assumed it was the fans cause of the AC and Coolant system using the fans . After replacing the fan, the issue happened again today . And I really don’t know what to do . My temps rise to abo it 220 when idling with AC on. The way I notice that it’s over heating again is cause the RPMs rise to around 1100 when ac is running at idle. Then when I turn off ac it drops back down to 700 idle. Normally Idle with AC sits at 900ish rpm. But when the problem occurs it goes to 1100. Read somewhere that the car does this to keep the water pump moving .
so is there any solution right now instead of getting rid of the car like the original poster did lmao

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

You replaced the fan(s) but you didn't say if they are actually running when this issue occurs. Did you run the self test to check the fans? see here

On full speed they should be roaring loud.

blackroze

So my friend has this same problem. He took at to an infinity mechanic. Evidently there is a small plastic piece on the back of the motor by the firewall that gets corroded. They replaced it, and the problem went away. 400 bucks later but it worked. Maybe have them look at that. It’s under the motor shield, about 6-8 inches, in the middle area. This is for the 2 door coupe.








QUOTE=ILM-NC G37S;4312270]You replaced the fan(s) but you didn't say if they are actually running when this issue occurs. Did you run the self test to check the fans? see here

On full speed they should be roaring loud.[/QUOTE]

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Care to be a little more specific? There are any number of "small plastic pieces" in the bay (besides, plastic doesn't corrode). What was replaced? The temperature sensor? Hose coupling?

Don't get me wrong I am happy that the issue was resolved, but others reading this will have no clue what "plastic piece" was changed (for $400 no less)...

blackroze

I’m sorry I don’t know the exact piece, but I’m sure a confident mechanic would know. They replaced it and now everything is fine.



QUOTE=ILM-NC G37S;4313669]Care to be a little more specific? There are any number of "small plastic pieces" in the bay (besides, plastic doesn't corrode). What was replaced? The temperature sensor? Hose coupling?

Don't get me wrong I am happy that the issue was resolved, but others reading this will have no clue what "plastic piece" was changed (for $400 no less)...[/QUOTE]

cartossin

I still wonder how he knew it was overheating. Was that ever answered?

BULL

[/QUOTE]

I'm really sorry but observations like this should not even be documented. Not trying to sound like a phallus however there are MANY sensors and switches at the back of the motor. A simple vacuum leak could be leaning out the mix and causing an overheat, bad engine coolant temp sensor could be causing an over heat, the throttle coolant tubes could be causing an overheat.

Unsure what your background is however is synonymous with saying: All the computer needed was a new cable, any computer specialist will know what the tiny cable in the back goes to.